OK, So I bought my wife a new 659 just before Xmas. We got pregnant with our third so sold her R6 in 2010 with a promise to replace it when the little one starts kindy, which is this year. I'm pretty happy she picked a twin, I'm not a fan of in line fours. I have a Buell XB12R myself. So I traced the internet for some information around the limits of the machine and from what I found it's motor was the 696 sleeved down with a different stroke to bring it under the 660 LAMS requirement and the mechanical throttle stop. Too easy to remove. Now everyone can have their opinions on whether its good bad or ugly, so be it. My wife had her R6 for six or seven years but never bothered to get her licence (has a 250 class (LAMS)). I was surprised she picked the 659 being a naked. I read up on people bending the bracket out of shape to get past it but found a pic on some forum of someones with a replaced bolt showing it could be done. I did not want to damage anything as that is not the idea. I cant figure out how to insert my own picture as it only allows a URL address so will just describe for now. Will update later after I figure it out. Image I found; The lower bolt has been replaced, the upper bolt has had a slot cut with a hacksaw. You do not need to touch the upper bolt as it rotates anyway, but the lower bolt you will need to cut a slot with a hacksaw through the dome section of the rivet only. Then use a medium flat blade screwdriver, I could not get it to crack so I attached a small set of vice grips for leverage to crack it then it came out easily. Once removed I replaced the bolt with a stainless cap screw (allen key type), size was M5 x 10mm (I got a pack of 10 for around $4.00 from auto one), the original is around 20mm long but 10mm was fine. Now to make it easier I have a handle that accepts hacksaw blades, although I snapped the blade to make the overall length short due to limited space; This is similar to what I used; Now to make access for some room for the hacksaw you need to remove the plastic mesh cover in front of the motor, a lower black allen key bolt on the frame on both sides and a silver allen key bolt up inside on both sides right next to the front mesh panel, this will make the cover loose but not removable due to an electrical connection on the right hand side, you can remove completely but I just cable tied it out the way. (4mm allen key size) You will also need to disconnect the choke cable to move it out of the way. (10mm open end spanner to crack locking nut, then flat screwdriver to loosen lock on cable itself, use long nose pliers to hold the bottom or it will twist around the cable) Now cutting the slot is a slow process, cut slow until you develop the start of the slot otherwise you will slip and scratch the motor. I spent around 10 minutes on this part. Don't forget to reassemble the choke before fitting the front cover, I didn't so had to remove it again, learn from me. If I can figure out how to put my pics in I may update this later, hopefully helps others out, bending with a hammer and chisel is just wrong in my mind, look after your gear.