Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

drain bolt [urgent]

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by biceps, Aug 17, 2006.

  1. Hi,
    I'm in the middle of changing my oil. one problem: i cant get this bolt off.
    how much force am i putting into it? is it suppose to be tight. im scared i might break something.

    and i'm turning it anticlockwise right? (when viewing the bolt head on)

  2. Yeah it will be anticloockwise.. When under the bike looking up. Which means it will be clockwise when above the bike looking down. Make sure you get that right.

    Check and see that its not wired on. Clean it and make sure that no one has drilled a tiny hole and wired it on.. Also check for locktite which might be green, blue or red around the base

    The torque on my GSX 750 is er nowhere obvious in the manual
    8 to 12 nM maybe. They can get pretty tight tho. It should be a pretty big bolt and pretty short, hard to sheer.

  3. With a name like that and you can't get one little bolt undone. Wahahaha

    Yes I believe you are trying to turn it the correct way. Try knocking it up a little bit. By that I mean try to tighten it a little and then try to loosen it again.
    Don't go nuts on it but sometimes this works.
    Else try the usual wd40 etc . If you're going to give it ya all make sure someone is holding the bike before ya do else it could end up in tears or worse.

    Also are you trying it while its hot/warm. I now this helps the oil drain out but it may also make the metal swell a little. Maybe let her cool or even leave it over night then try again. If ya cant change the oil in the morning loosen it if ya can and then do it back up. The in theory you can get it back undone when you get time.

    Good luck.
  4. hahahaha my biceps came through thank you very much. it was just too tight for my liking, so i didnt want to break anything ;)

    all good. the oil's draining.

    do you guys change your filter whilst this is happening? the bulk of the oil has gone into the pan. there's just the ocasional drip now.
  5. make sure you use a wrench and socket too. Trying to undo an overtightened bolt with a spanner is going to give you no joy. as long as you have the right fitting socket don't be scared to give it a bit of stick to loosen it up

    Edit: (woops you beat me to it - yeah do the filter after all the oil has drained - then replace it with the new one before you fill up the sump)
  6. Typically I use a socket and give it a bit of a tap to loosen it. Looking down on the bolt - lefty loosey, righty tightey. :LOL:
  7. Well done. Makes ya feel so happy when ya finally crack it. Its like you farkin ripper
  8. Beats the "Im gona throw up" feeling when you realise you just turned it the wrong way and stripped it :(
  9. hahahaha i know that 'throwing up' feeling when you've screwed something up big time.

    Okay. oil and filter has been changed. the only thing i didnt do was replace the washer on the drainbolt. i dont its too much of a worry. however, my filters did come with new o rings, which i replaced.

    so what now? do i leave it, or do i warm it up and go for a quick ride?
  10. Umm, if you leave it, it may leak. Badly. Then again, it may not. Be warned...
  11. 8-12 nM is the equivalent of sneezing on a torque wrench! I do hope you did that sump plug up with a bit more than that. In the Yamaha manuals it states something insane like 65-70nM, however in Kawasaki manuals i'm led to believe it states 45nM.

    One thing i would HIGHLY recommend doing is replacing the crush washer EVERY single time you do an oil change. The crush washer will stop you from stripping the sump plug whilst achieving a decent amount of torque on the bolt. This is coming from someone who didn't do as Johnny don't did... i've spat out a sump plug at 140km/h, aswell as more recently stripping a sump with 25nM dialled on a torque wrench after not cleaning the thread to remove oil, and not replacing the crush washer.
    Heed my warning. :grin:
  12. ZZR250 manual says 20Nm
    ZX6R manual says 27Nm

    65-70 sounds very high :?
  13. Well you put oil in it.

    Dont know for your bike, but I usually find its best to first fill up the entire window. Then start it for 10 seconds to pump the oil up, some will disapear into the filter and stuff.
    Let it sit for 5 minutes becuause it takes the oil a while to drain down, then top up to the appropriate level.

    Go for a quick ride if you want, saves being late for work if something isnt right in the morning.
  14. 65-70nM is insanely high! That's why no one follows it.
  15. that thing about 'stripping the sump plug'. Does that occur on the bike's end, or does it occur on teh bolt's end?

    U've got be scared now: i did it up REAL tight, and then i went for one more crank, and then i felt it slip. I thought that it was because that washer was getting crushed... once i felt that, i stopped it straight away.

    I just went for a 30k ride. seems to be okay - althought i havent checked the dip stick. There's no leaks by teh sounds of it.
  16. If it slipped thats a bad thing.

    It strips on the bike end. Uh, duno.
  17. You've got PM.

    The summary of it is that if you have stripped the sump plug - DO NOT continue to ride the bike until it is repaired. The rest of the details i've included in the PM.