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DR650 long-term build

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' at netrider.net.au started by Kernel, Nov 21, 2011.

  1. Recently I've put some stuff on my bike. I have plans for this bike in the future but I can only get stuff as money allows, so this will be a long-term build until I get the bike to where I want it to be.

    I currently have:
    Procycle/Saddlemen DIY Gel seat foam+cover kit
    MXRob Keihin FCR-MX 39 Carburetor
    Acerbis barkbusters
    TCI Products headlight guard
    Ricochet products bash plate
    Cut air box and carb jetted to suit
    And waiting to go on the bike is a set of Procycle engine case guards.

    The procycle/saddlemen seat:
    I really don't like this seat, after a few thousand kays it's still not comfy. Being gel foam it holds in the heat from the sun pretty badly, and the "extra cushy comfort" that's supposed to be there from the gel option just isn't. My butt gets less sore than stock but still gets sore, and after a less amount of time than the stock seat.

    The Keihin FCR-MX 39 Carburetor, adapted to fit the DR650 by MXRob in the States:
    I like this carb. It is a 39mm mechanically operated flatslide carb with an accelerator pump, multiple venting points and an enclosed throttle cam VS the stock Mikuni BST40 40mm vacuum operated slide cam with limited venting points, exposed cam and no pump. It has a whistling noise when the throttle opened that sort of sounds like a little turbo. It pulls harder and much smoother from the bottom, there is more power and torque everywhere in the rev range especially up top, way better throttle response, and you don't get as bad low-rpm surging than the stock POS BST40 and you don't get any of the surging from air pressure changes that you get from the BST40.

    The TCI Products headlight guard:
    Pretty cool product. Doesn't cover all of the top of the headlight but the cowling is kind of in the way there, plus it's the strongest part of the headlight (outer edge) and rocks big enough to smash the head light wouldn't be able to get in there anyway. Light out put is not noticeably affected, of course it does throw dark spots over the beam where you can see the pattern of the guard but you can still see where you're going in the dark just as well with it as you can without it.

    Acerbis barkbusters:
    Don't really like the look of these. However, they do make the bike feel tougher and better, plus they seem solid enough. I really want a pair of cycra probend hand guards http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CYCRA-MX-HANDSHIELDS-PROBEND-ALLOY-BAR-PACK-BLACK-7500-12-/180748162695 . I think I will get these, reuse the mounting hardware I got with my Acerbis guards, and keep the Acerbis ones as spares.

    Ricochet products bash plate:
    This was the first bash plate I've ever installed and it was a real bastard of a job. Hard to get the brackets to line up with the holes in the bash plate, the brackets would fall out of place all the time, and it was just a real fiddly bastard of a job. The bolts don't look straight because the brackets don't sit straight, I'm not sure if I could get the brackets to sit straight but even if I could, it would be a shit to do and I really cannot be arsed. I had to get help from my housemate's friend to do it, and even then we had a real shit of a time getting it on. However, it looks alright, seems solid enough, you can still get to the oil pressure bolt and the sump plug, and it hasn't make the bottom end much more noisy. Much more importantly, it will stop me from getting a big gaping hole in my sump if I go to rocky terrain offroad!

    Cut airbox:
    Obviously helps the engine breathe, gotta give it more fuel to balance this out of course, this results in more power and better throttle response. Also makes the bike sound louder and better because you can hear the induction roar!

    Mods to come:
    GSXR1000 X40F1X exhaust, will head down to Megacycle when I've got cash and see if they can fix me up with some cutting, welding, and getting a custom flange and mid pipe made. I'm also going to look into making a custom lightweight guard so that the muffler doesn't get dinged up too badly when riding off road.

    Suspension: I don't see upgrading the stock suspension with heavier springs, better fork dampener rod oil, intiminators/cartridge emulators or whatever as being worth while. I want a pair of cartridge forks with compression, rebound and preload adjustability that will slot into the stock DR650 triples, at a decent price. I'm looking at getting a pair of 43mm DR350 forks from some wreckers interstate. However these only have compression and preload adjustment (no rebound adjustment), or perhaps only rebound and preload adjustment. Also I can't check the forks out since they're interstate, and they might be from the street model which are heavier. There is a list of 43mm forks and I may look at what will suit my fussy tastes better.
    At the back there is a kit on procycle's website which gives you rebound adjustability and better performance all round: http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#shock_guts Not bad for $500 for brand new components.
    I may get an Ohlins or WP shock from a KTM and have it rebuilt and resprung to suit my and the bike's weight, but this would be the more expensive option.

    Better handle bars: 1 1/8 inch (stock 7/8 inch) I want stronger bars which are higher and further forward than stock. In dark red. Might be a bit of a tall order, I might end up ordering the kit from procycle and seeing if they can do me a custom bend and color for a little extra $ or I'll look at bars online.
    Keeping in line with the ergonomic side of things, I also want the pegs to be lower so that I'm more comfortable sitting on the bike, my legs are just too long for it the way it is. Ideally I'll raise the suspension some to compensate for the lesser amount of ground clearance so I still have plenty of clearance for off road riding.

    Replace handguards: See above
    Replace seat foam: See above

    I want another set of wheels to keep a pair of street rubbers on and keep dual sport tyres mounted on my stock wheels, so that when I get the inclination, I can just swap the wheels over in 15 minutes and go dirt riding. For dirt riding I also want to put a compact compressor somewhere in the bike so that I can let air out for off road riding and easily pump them back up when I return to the road to go home.

    I also want a clarke plastic gas tank for a little extra range, dropability (steel tanks dent and scrape easy) for when I do shorter street rides and off road rides, an IMS tank for a good compromise between range and weight for the longer street rides and longer offroad rides, and a safari tank if I get into long-range enduro and rally events (something I really want to take up). Aqualine, the manufacturer of Safari tanks, are also developing a fairing to mate up with their big arse DR650 tank, if I get into those events I mentioned I will also get that.

    Dashboard: I'm really fussy with this. I want something with a tacho that has a rev range appropriate to my motorcycle (ideally 8,000RPM since rev limiter is around 7700) and an accurate digital speedo. The Trailtech Vapor is a popular unit but frankly I don't like the tacho display and I've heard there can be slight lag between the tacho display and true engine revs and that the tacho is slightly inaccurate. Not good enough.
    There's this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Acewell-...-Needle-/260659542596?clk_rvr_id=286567031826 but it only comes in two variants, 6,000rpm tacho (not high enough) or 12,000rpm tacho (too high). I asked the seller if he can get me an 8,000 rpm tacho but they only do those two units, shame really cause it's a nice unit.

    There is this unit made for Harleys which is really nice, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EZIG8Y/?tag=netrider-20 and I'm sure I could adapt it to fit the DR650. Only thing is that I don't know how responsive/accurate the tacho will be, since they're likely to make it suit the charm of the Harley Davidson. We may see.

    Then there is this thing http://www.visteon.com/products/automotive/motorcycle_cluster.html which I can't find being sold anywhere but they do have a list of US distributors. It would also be ideal but the price needs to be right.

    I may do some engine mods to get more power if I end up doing enduro or rally racing, namely the Procycle 780 big bore kit and the Procycle 190 cam. They also have a big valve head but it's expensive to do the work to the head to install the bigger valves. If you want a head that has already had the work done and the valves installed you are looking at $1199, and they need your head for an exchange!! And their prices are very reasonable! But if I ever get into some serious money (doubtful), this kit would be the icing on the cake.
    All this stuff can be found at Procycle's website http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html .

    For the super slab:
    I want a throttle rocker because my hand gets sore from holding the throttle open on long trips. Also want gel grips for more comfort and reduced vibration. A back rest would be really nice, I may just get a back protector.
    Lastly... I want a windshield. Something small enough that I can still go off road riding safely with, but something effective enough that I'll be comfortable on long stretches of highway, not having to hold myself up against the wind.

    I want to get into welding so for the real long trips and rallies, I am going to build myself a set of racks (not sure whether I want to go one piece or three piece yet, which is stronger?), an aluminium top box, and I'll get a set of soft bags to put on the panniers.

    Lighting: I'm either going to go for the buell bug eye headlight mod which gives you really nice lighting, or I am going to upgrade my stock headlight with a H4 relay, plasma yellow bulb (for the looks more than anything) and a pair of LED driving lights to fill in the dark spots and help around corners. I like the latter option better because I like the look of the stock headlight, plus I've already got a headlight guard for it. Maybe even an LED light up top wired to the high beam circuit so that I can see what the hell is coming up on that dark hill, and get people's attention better when I'm TECing on a group ride. Also, when the back tail light bulb blows, I'll be replacing it with an LED bulb with the same connector as the stock filament. Might go LED flashers too and install an LED flasher relay, since I don't like hacking to make things work (gotta put diodes in for the load based flasher to work with LEDs).

    For those long trips when I'm loaded up, I also want to reinforce the subframe by welding some fins in to distribute the load and prevent frame cracking.

    You might be thinking... dude, what the hell? Why spend all this money on your DR650 when you could just buy a KTM Adventure?
    Well, you do have a valid point. But you see, I reckon you could buy a used DR650 and install all this stuff for the price of a new KTM Adventure bike if you did it all yourself (which I aim on doing). Plus, I want something reliable rock solid reliable with relatively inexpensive parts, something I can maintain myself without spending too much money, something I can fix on the side of the road with a hammer and a rock, and I want something unique. KTM Adventure bikes are none of these things. And I can't afford to just go out and buy a KTM Adventure bike, not eve used. I can only slowly build my relatively cheap bike up to what I want it to be. Also, doing it this way is way more fun and rewarding, and I've got something I can show people and say - "Hey, look at this. I did all of this work myself."
  2. update, added pics and added information about what I want my bike to become
  3. Just about the Trailtech tacho: it's perfectly accurate if you wire it properly and the update time is sufficient for normal riding, you only notice the lag if you're revving the tits off it in neutral. Good write up though, dual sports are cool.
  4. still, I would really prefer a needle tacho. but the fact that I may not have to hack around adding things that are universal/made for other bikes and the price of the trailtech vapor which they have one specifically for the DR650 may make me go for that option. I wonder if there is a way to change the backlight and lcd screen colors? thanks
  5. Crikey - that's not a post, that's a PhD!

    Well done there Kernel, good start.
  6. hahahaha thanks mate
  7. yeah very nice
    great project bike
    so much affordable aftermarket stuff to choose from

    additional lighting maybe ?
    wider footpegs yet ?
  8. additional lighting is on the list
    wider footpegs, yeah I'm thinking of cutting and welding the stock peg mounts and replacing the pegs with the latest pivot pegz. they are not cheap though, 250 bucks shipped
  9. So the seat turned out to be pretty crap, I returned it about a month ago. They've given me a full refund minus shipping in the form of store credit. Stock seat is back on.

    I'm going to soon put an order in to procycle soon for a bunch of stuff... suspension and ergonomic stuff are the biggest items, I'm also getting a smaller pilot jet and some spares.
    The pilot jet is because my carburetor is set up to US spec sea level... I only get the erratic up/down idle at full operating temperature when the pilot screw is turned all the way in, fuel economy is also pretty poor - so for now, it's going to be going leaner on the needle, then once I install my free flowing exhaust system I will be returning the needle to its current setting. Main jet can stay in, I'll just avoid hitting it for now.

    The reason why I know my jetting is out is not only the poor fuel economy but also my plugs keep getting fouled, and idle is a bit crap - my idle was very smooth when I installed brand new plugs but soon got back to its unsmooth state.
  10. Don't forget to go for the twin electrode CR10EK plugsrather than the cheaper single electrode CR10E. They make a noticeable difference to the idle. I was surprised.
  11. Where'd you find the FCR?

    From what I've read from MX rob it's a YZR carb or something like that. I've been watching ebay for any that pop up... haven't had any luck in the last six months. Gargh. I'm sure the Mikuni is just as good, but the YZR doesn't produce the backfire that the stock/mikuni one does.

    And I have to sort out my third gear whine. Gah.

    Anyway, great post.
  12. Can't believe I never noticed this post. Not quite, it's a YZ450F carb, but it's used on a few other bikes as well and will work just as well. I think the KTM one has a more convenient location for the idle adjuster (the YZ450F one is right against the frame) and a rotating fuel spigot.

    You could just replace your third gear with the stock OEM one, but it's kind of a lottery as to whether or not it will whine again or not, and again kind of a lottery as to whether it will blow up or not. My third gear has been whining for 20,000 kilometres and I have not had a single problem with it. The nature of the third gear whine/blow ups is not fully understood - I suspect that it could be something else within the bike than the third gear cog itself that causes it to whine/blow up, but maybe not.
    Anyway, Ricor Racing is coming out with new stronger billet third gear replacements for the DR650.
    Hopefully this upgrade will annihilate any chance of your motor becoming lunched by a third gear blow up, and will make current DR650 motors pretty much bullet proof.
    As for the Mikuni/FCR-MX choice.... I would get the FCR-MX if you do much dirt riding because it has an enclosed throttle cam, but I don't think it would make that much difference in the areas where you would usually ride a DR650. The decel popping shouldn't be too much of a nuisance unless you have a straight-through exhaust system.

    I have some new updates coming, I've installed a windshield, a special type of handle bar riser, some fat bars, and tricker mirrors. Just need to replace a screw and I'll take some pictures, should be tomorrow.
    I've also got an exhaust system in the works. I've had a GSXR1000 can, the holy 40F1, lying around for almost a year now. I've finally decided to stop hum and harring and get myself a mid pipe. I'm getting one made by a mob called motorcycle exhaust professionals up in Queensland for 180 bucks. I've bought the tools to make up an exhaust flange, and if there's any interest, I'll make up a few flanges to try and recoup the cost of the exhaust. It will be a 39mm hole in the flange but if I'm provided with the hole saw I can make it to any hole size desired.