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dont you love water cooled bikes?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by idontlikemondays, Nov 3, 2007.

  1. so, im starting to get a bit of coolant leeking out of the weephole on the waterpump. im short of time, cash, and inclination to replace the water pump right at the moment, and would rather do it in 2 and a half weeks when im planning on replacing alot of other stuff on the bike aswell. of coarse there is a need to continue the commute and other duties on the bike in the meantime, will continuing to ride it with the waterpump seals on the way out fcuk it?
    how bad is it? not too bad for the time being, not dripping on the floor yet, but running your finger along the weep hole, you definatly know its there. of coarse i dont want coolant to back drip into the crank. that wouldnt be cool...

    any input appreciated!
  2. If its broken fix it or risk extra damage later,or you get stranded when it shits itself with out warning :grin: Oh i forgot you already have a warning :cool:
  3. On a modern, high output alloy engine, I personally wouldn't ride without the cooling system being perfect. But then, I've got the choice. If you must keep the bike in service, keep the following critical points in mind:-

    Don't let it run low on coolant. Keep it topped up as often as necessary. Every journey or more if you have to.

    Keep an eye on your oil and coolant to make sure there's no transfer between the two. Trying to lube your cams with an emulsion of oil and coolant will destroy them faster than you can say ball-shrinkingly expensive. Any signs, stop riding til it's fixed.

    Watch your temp gauge. Any deviation from normal (up or down) indicates that all is not well in the circulation department. Any problems here, stop riding til it's fixed.
  4. its a minor leak , thats what the hole is for

    keep a close eye on it and you shouldnt have too much dramas as long as you are aware of the possible outcome
  5. +1
  6. Dom, the seal could let go anytime, and you know the end result is you will be stuck. Watch it carefully, and don't thrash it.

    I would replace the pump asap mate.
  7. thanks for the advice guys, given whats been said, i reckon ill just bite the bullet and replace it as soon as possible, it seems like a real easy job anyway, i wont even have to remove the LH casing.
    im just hoping now that i dont have to get the part in from Japan :?
  8. Yeah, all above good advice. The thing to consider is that the weeping is coolant flowing through the bearing space too, which means failure is close, and could wipe out the coupling that drives teh pump if the bearings go.
    I wouldn' curse water cooled bikes because of this though, the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.
    Be sure and check thoroughly your coolant lines if you do the repairs, good time to replace them.

    Regards, Andrew.
  9. crack an egg in the cooling system. Apparently seals it temporarily.
  10. that is for a leaking radiator? the radiators fine, the other trick is cracked pepper into the cooling system. i might do that in the car, with its 60 year old design buick V6, but not the 30 year old design MC33 motor! :LOL:
    the thing i cant figure out is why the fark did the water pump pack it with a motor that only had 57000kms on the clock? im putting it down to two possibilties. one is the gearing, the rear has been running a 49 tooth rear sprocket, assupose to a stock 42 tooth. so the engine speed has been about 15% higher at any given speed. two is the coolent has been low in the resoivor tank for the past 5000kms or so (not below the lowest mark)

    good news is that there are two water pumps assemblies in australia for my VTR250, shortly there will only be one. so i should have it by wednesday.

    bad news is that i could only get the entire assembly (including pump cover, all bolts etc etc etc) and it has cost me friggen 300 bucks.
    hmmm trading in for an XR400 is looking more appealing :LOL:

    typhoon, i checked the cooling lines last major service i did, they all look in good nick. one good thing about the VTR is that there are only 4 lengths of rubber hoses for coolant on the bike. but ill check em again.

    cheers again guys, i really appreciate it.
  11. Fark $300, they know how to screw us, just sell us the whole fuggen thing, not a kit to O/haul it.

    Better than a cooked twin I guess.
  12. umm type 7 mechanical seals can be had for tenty bucks from your local pump shop mate you need to strip the pump and replace the bearings as well probably but you need to check the sizes etc

    as an owner of a cx500 mechanical seals from mr honda cost 90 bucks but the 1/2 davey seal can be made to fit by opening up the casing .5 of a mm i used a flap wheel in the drill did the job and a twenty bucks who cares also yamaha seals a some time the same as honda but half the price
  13. Automotive pumps last from 30,000 to 300,000, but frequently in the 100,000 km, 5 year bracket. You have done well on an engine that spins twice as fast - since that is really all that contributes to the wear.

    The level of coolant in the header tank won't affect pump longevity, unless you actually run out altogether.

    Glad you are fixing it straight away - the seal, which is under pressure, can let go at any time and dump the coolant out of the engine. While you would know as that was happening (most probably) it could leave you stranded.


    Trevor G