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Does this Idea sound Workable ?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by orekin, May 20, 2010.

  1. I'm working on putting together my ultimate adventure riding toolkit whilst still keeping it under 3 kilograms, including spares 8-[

    I was thinking that I could take QuickSteel along with some pieces of 3MM thick flat aluminium

    Then if I am stuck in the middle of nowhere I could use the quicksteel and the aluminium pieces to repair engine case damage, broken levers, etc.

    Only concern I have is if the aluminium will have a high enough temperature rating to be used on engine casing ? Pure aluminium has a melting point of 660.37 °C but the flat bar aluminium is probably a compound of some sort.



    Thanks
     
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  2. Engine casings don't get that hot. You can stick rubber to them and it'll last quite a while. Aircooled cylinder heads round the exhaust port is another matter, but still not outrageous.

    Your epoxy-based Quiksteel or whatever is another matter. Whatever it says on the pack, expect rapid deterioration and low strength if subjected to temps much in excess of 100C. It should last long enough to get you out of trouble. It's just cheapskates like me who plug broken cam covers with Araldite and then have to replace it every year for the life of the bike.

    What you're suggesting will work in emergencies though.
     
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  3. is it possible to get a handheld arc welding unit from somewhere? add a transformer and run it off the battery?
     
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  4. Jesus, how far from civilisation do you get????

    There is a high temp version of the metal epoxy, I forget what it's called, but I got some from bunnings when I had an irreparable oil leak that I repaired.

    That'll do the job.
     
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  5. commonly found plate aluminium will have a higher melting point than cast aluminium.

    The bigger problem is getting that epoxy to stick. Even the oil off your fingers is enough to stop it from sticking.

    I saw a bush repair once that made an amalgam of soap and dust. Apparently it works really well and can even last years. Although this was on a fuel tank, so I dont' know if it will work on a sump.
     
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  6. I can confirm the soap repairs on fuel tanks. Slap a patch of chewing gum over the soap and it'll last months.

    I've tried the supposedly high-temp epoxy goop and, in my experience (to be treated with the suspicion of all small samples), it was no better than the regular stuff. ie It worked, but can't be considered a permanent repair if subjected to engine temperatures.

    For cleaning the surfaces, carry a sheet of sandpaper or wet & dry, about 80 grit. Lay the bike down (or whatever) so oil is not actually leaking from the hole. Get all the crap off you can with rags etc. (roll of disposable wipes is a good idea, and something to put the used ones in to avoid litter), scrub up the gluing area with the abrasive and slap your putty on. For anything more than a crack, it's not a bad idea to use a patch made from your roll of beer can/tin can metal, which can be cut with scissors or a knife if you're desperate. Silicone sealant can be useful for bodging emergency case and fuel tank repairs too. It's uses aren't just confined to gaskets.

    Don't forget your cable ties and roll of duct tape :grin:.
     
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  7. Sorry, but ya won't get aluminium to weld without some sort of inert shielding gas. Just the way it is.
    Melting point of Al alloys is only slightly higher than pure Al. 620-660 degrees C roughly. Still good enough for the pistons in your engine though which see 8-900 odd degrees.
     
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  8. ahh. I forgot most engine blocks are cast Al. What is the soap repair - how is it done?
     
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  9. Well, the time I used it, I'd punched a hole about the size and shape of a decent thumbnail clipping in the tank of my old company Dunnydore, on a dirt road miles from anywhere. Having heard about the soap trick and being in the habit of collecting those little bars of the stuff you get in motel rooms, I took half a bar of it, mashed it into a thick paste using spit, and daubed it into the hole. This was while petrol was still leaking, so I didn't have much hope of it sealing. Amazingly, it did. About a 100 kms later I found a general store, which sold me a pack of Juicyfruit which, all chewed in one go, made a protective patch over the whole thing.

    Didn't leak for another three months in spite of being at the bottom of the tank and so permanently immersed in petrol.
     
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  10. Maybe my 3 mm thick aluminium plate is overkill then ? I'll just take some cuts from a coke can ?
     
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  11. I though so too until I googled it. From the quick browse I think you need to run a DC rectifier with work negative.

    This means you could probably run it off a battery. Push start afterwords.

    Still I wouldn't like to try is as my steel welding in shite and given the hair trigger nature of aluminum welding I would just end up with a bigger hold
     
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  12. FWIW there's a story somewhere on ADVrider or HorizonsUnlimited somewhere about a guy in Morocco using Quicksteel and scrap alumininium, and yes, it did work. At least long enough to get to get him out of trouble.
     
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