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Do you grease the clutch cable?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by GoTeam, Jun 14, 2009.

  1. After the chocolate mill ride, my left wrist gets painful within about 15 minutes of riding from changing gears. Before the chocolate mill ride, I'd ridden anything up to a duration of all day and not had a problem. Until yesterday, I hadn't been on the bike in about 8 or 9 days and hoped that would be enough for my wrist to recover. It wasn't. I may have done permanent damage or my clutch may be restricted somewhere along the line which contributed to it. Even when its sore, I still have full strength in my hand/wrist.

    Is it common for clutch cables to be greased? Could that be the problem (too much friction along the cable)? Is the location of my clutch lever in the wrong spot (i.e. should be rotated so that the hand has a particular geometry when pulling in the clutch)?

    Any comments, thoughts or suggestions?

  2. Yes, they should be lubricated. I never used to grease mine, though. Just disconnect the cable from the lever and hold the end up in the air. Squirt a liberal amount of WD40 down the inside of the cable sheath and wait till it appears out the other end.

    Reassemble and your wrist will thank you. You will also greatly lessen the likelihood of the cable seizing altogether and snapping off.
  3. #3 geeth, Jun 14, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
    +1 ^

    Lubricating isn't something that you need to do weekly, just every now and then as most of the cable is covered.

    Keeping a spare new cable at home never hurts if you don't know how often it was lubed before buying or grey import etc.

    I did it not long ago, I found it a little fiddly as it was my first time but it's pretty easy.

    Heres a vid for you

    Part one

    Part two
  4. Thanks for the tips and the vids are great.

    Anyone with a Hyo done this? The reason why I ask is because in their wisdom, Hyosung have made access to the cable adjuster lock nuts impossible unless I pull half the bike apart. There is no room to get a spanner in there (unless the full length of the spanner is about 30mm) because the exhaust for the rear cylinder is just above the two nuts. It looks like a simple job is going to turn into a big one thanks to this. The service manual is zero help. It simply says to loosen the lock nuts but fails to show the exhaust that's in the way in their diagram and also fails to let you know that you'll need the entire weekend and a pallet of 750 mL bottles of JD to get through it the very first time you do it. It'll have to wait until next weekend.

    Minus eleventy to Hyosung for that.

    It was also good to see the lock nut up at the clutch handle loose when I removed the covering sheath! Could it have somehow rattled loose or is this the fault of whoever checked it at the first service?
  5. Your owners manual may have something in it about how to do it as it is basically routine maintenance.
    Have a flick through that.
  6. You should take the cable off at the handlebar lever to lube it,
    The exhaust cannot be in the way, even on a who-flung.

    Hold cable up in air and lube, 5 min job.

    As for the wrist, prolly just not used to the action, a brace will
    help until it strengthens.
  7. Yeah, I believe that my OP said to remove the cable FROM THE LEVER!
  8. I did. That's why I made reference to the manual.

    Which is what I set out to do.... the way it was shown on the video1 link Geeth posted (and the way it is eluded to in the service manual).

    I'll have to have another look but while since it still has tension after completely screwing in the screw adjuster, I'm unable to do that easily. I can't readily undo the lock nut at the cable adjuster due to the exhaust being above it. There is limited access to the adjuster after pulling off the seat. I'm still at a bit of a loss how to easily remove the cable at the handle. Maybe removing the lever at the handlebar will be the quickest way to do it.

    OK, brainwave tells me to twist the arm down at the clutch and that will take away slack at the handle/lever so the cable will pop out. I'll ask my mate to help me with that.
  9. Hmmmm.

    easy to do, hard to explain, I'll try anyway.

    Undo locknut at lever, screw adjuster all the way in.

    line up the slot in the adjuster, lever and locknut.

    Pull lever back to handlebar and get hold of the clutch cable

    release the lever while holding the tension on the cable and you
    will be able to slip the inner cable through the slot.

    remove end nipple from lever.

    Hope this makes sense, it sounds right to me but I know how to do it.
  10. I did it similar to that way Hawklord. The job is done. The way I did it was:

    1. Pulled the clutch in.
    2. Jammed a tree branch in between the lever down at the casing and the casing for the sprocket. That took the tension out of the cable.
    3. Undid the lock nut at the handle.
    4. Screwed in the adjuster all the way.
    5. Undid the bolt so that I could pull off the clutch lever.
    6. Lined up that spacing in the adjusting screw and lock nut so that the cable could pass through.
    7. Pulled off the clutch lever.
    8. Sprayed away with WD40.
    9. Reversed the process.

    It didn't make a lot of difference so that means my wrist is stuffed (RSI) considering it got sore after only pulling in the lever 5 times. My wrist may not be used to it but the problem arose after the chocolate mill ride. I was ok before that. I froze riding on the freeway yesterday (with all of my warm gear on) so I think I'll put the bike in storage for a couple of weeks and hope that my wrist gets better in the meantime.
  11. Do yourself a favour and run some oil down the cable after the WD40 GoTeam. WD40 is basically a cleaner and release agent, mostly made of something close to/like kerosene, and is not a real lubricant, despite their claims. If you just use WD40, you are flushing out any lubricant already in there. If you are lucky WD40 re-dilutes any grease that is still in there, but has thickened over time. That would be a best case scenario.

    Even better, if the end of the inner cable isn't damaged where it is attached to the clutch mechanism and it looks like it could be threaded back through the outer sheath (as good cables can be), then pull the inner cable out and clean it with WD40, flush the outer sheath, then grease the inner cable with light grease before reinserting it. This will last longer just oil.

    As to why your wrist is hurting now, it could be the clutch cable, or clutch has stiffened up, or as you get faster you are hanging on tighter, too tight, to the handlebars, or the angle of the handlebar and/or clutch lever is putting your wrist in an unnatural position when you have to use the clutch.

    The chocolate mill ride shouldn't have put any particular strain on your wrist, since it is mostly long runs with few gear changes. I find stop and go traffic results in more wrist problems than most other riding, except perhaps hours of very fast twisty riding.

    BTW, the guy who made that video was pretty much an amateur who wanted to sell his product idea, which didn't even work since it leaked and sprayed lubricant everywhere. :roll: To get oil into a cable (without removing the inner cable), undo both ends so that you can move the cable in and out of the sheath easily, then hold the cable end vertically, add a little oil to the cable so that it will run down into the sheath. To speed the process, move the inner cable up and down so that it drags the oil into the sheath. As long as you get enough oil in there, you don't need to wait for it to run out the bottom. It will work its way down the over time.
  12. Get a cable luber ($10) and some EZ-lube ($10), it does a beaut job and you'll be able to maintain this stuff going forward.

    Your wrist pain doesn't sound too good, I'd see a physio, there could be something nasty going on.
  13. Welcome to the world of unmodified Laverdas,thats an Italian bike from the 70s and 80s with the heaviest clutch known to man,1st buy a new cable and lube it,route it in the smoothest biggest archs you can,dont cable tie it too tight to the frame,also wack a bit of grease on the upper nipple so it pivots in its hole and goes not grab,you might if you dont have one get whats called a dog leg clutch lever,they are closere to the bar and help with leverage,some of your problem could be vibration related so get some of those foam grips,hold the bike with your legs and hold yourself up with your stomach not your arms,relay you hand,dont squeeze so hard,just push the bars to initiate a corner and then relax your arms,and the final tip is if your wrist starts to hurt on a ride,move your thumb from under the bar to on top,it makes your grip much stronger and will give some relief so you can get home.
  14. no i have never need to do it to sv1000

    thats cause it has a hydraulic clutch :p

  15. The physio was my next step if I couldn't self-diagnose what was going on. Here's what I pieced together. I used to hold onto the throttle too tightly even though I knew I shouldn't. It was a subconscious thing that happened. I stopped doing that and that was probably around the time of the chocolate mill ride.

    I went to the city on the bike yesterday afternoon. I made sure I took note of what I was doing. Here's what I am/was doing wrong to cause grief to my left wrist. Because I wasn't holding on tightly to the right grip, my left hand held onto the left grip tightly and applied a constant/consistent vertically downwards force as well. My wrist was slightly bent down as well. Over time that's bad news. Now consider pulling the clutch in as well whilst doing that and the clutch work tipped me over the edge for RSI. I picked up on this within a few minutes of getting on the bike.

    Now it led me to think why I was holding on tightly and putting pressure on my left wrist. It came down to laziness. I was hunching over a little. So how did I stop doing that? I tightened up the muscles in my abs/waist and let it take the load. The weird feeling after doing that was that I was barely hanging on to the left bar at all and only holding on enough on the right for the throttle.

    The soreness in the left wrist started to return but that was due to lapsing and loosening up the muscles around my abs/waist area.

    In short, I found my problem and know what makes it return. I consciously have to make sure I take the load with my abs/waist and all is sweet. I was starting to get a bit worried that this soreness within 5 minutes of getting on the bike would lead to me having to give away riding. Luckily, it won't be the case. :)
  16. Good to hear you worked out what the problem is. Now you just need to train yourself to do the right thing all the time. :grin:

    On a ride with mixed lazy straights, mild comfortable bends, fast sweepers and twisties I still have to consciosuly remind myself to loosen my grip on the bars, and hold on to the tank properly with my legs.

    It is easy to remember in the twisties, since I'm flicking left to right, but in the fast sweepers I constantly find myself holding the bars to tight because the Multistrada seems to need a lot of attention to stay on track on those corners. The silly thing is, if I practically let go of the bars after turn in, and hold on with my legs the Multistrada follows a much smoother curve around the sweepers.

    It is almost a faith thing, to let go of the bars, so it takes quite some experience to do it naturally.