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do i need a torque wrench to change oil + filter?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by daedalus, Nov 6, 2009.

  1. i have a kawasaki gpx250 (or ninja 250)

    according to here http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Oil_Change_Procedure

    a torque wrench is mandatory

    but why? what about just using a rachet?
  2. nope. when ya put everything back just dont force it really tight.
  3. Torque wrench (when set up correctly) prevents you from overdoing the sump plug.
  4. 3/4" Rattle gun with impact socket, minimum.

    Actually, I only use a 3/8 ratchet, dab of Locktite 567 on the thread (Liquid teflon tape, cures anaerobically) and nip it up tight plus a little bit. I certainly wouldn't bother doing it to torque, you run it to torque every time then it's only a matter of cycles before the thread is buggered, do it often enough and you get a "feel" for how tight is tight based on the metals at the interface.
  5. +1 on that
  6. Unless your a clutz, and prone to over tightening, it's not the most necessary tool that you will need.
  7. Once you start, what you'll actually be asking is, 'Why the f*** was I worried about torque wrenches? How do you get this f***ing oil filter off? Who tightened this? The f***ing Terminator?"
  8. Heh I had that trouble with my rear axle bolt. I was basically standing on a 3ft torque wrench before it finally gave way.
  9. Yes, I would get a torque wrench. They aren't that expensive, and providing you use it you can save yourself a whole world of pain and expense later. It will also be useful for any other work you want to do on your bike.

    Sure, for a screw that you tighten often (like the sump plug) then you will learn to feel when it is just tight enough. But how will you learn if you've never compared your 'feel' to the specs in the manual?

    If you over do it; at best it will be annoying to undo later, and at worst you will need to replace a cracked sump (with stripped threads being an all too common middle ground).

    Having said that, clean threads and the appropriate loctite product are equally important (dirty threads will cause misguiding torque readings).

    PS: Megaphat, what on earth are you using a torque wrench to undo a bolt for, let alone one that is meant to be tightened as much as the rear axle bolt?
  10. Rattle gun failed. By failed I mean, it couldn't undo the nut. Fortunately the torque wrench was rated to a few hundred Nm.
  11. Fair enough if it wasn't going beyond it's maximum rating I s'pose. Still, for the newbies out there - don't abuse your torque wrench! Or your ratchet drive either for that matter. Undoing a stuck fastener is a job for a slide bar or a breaker bar.
  12. so some people say yes, some people say no...

    what do you mean by this? that if i tighten to torque its way more tight than what i would tighten to without a torque wrench?
  13. The reason they recommend using a torque wrench in the manual is because everyone has a different idea of what tight is (heh heh)... I'm not a mechanic, but after many years of owning/working on mostly older bikes and cars and farm machinery, I can tell you overtightened bolts are a major headache.

    I once volunteered to change the oil on my ex-motherinlaws Magna - whoever did the last change did the sump bolt up so tight the pressed steel sump was deforming before the sump bolt started to move. If that had been an alloy bike sump, something would have broken or stripped.

    Also remember a magazine article years ago about overtightened triple clamps bolts binding upside-down forks on motorcrossers - never experienced it myself though...

    Alternatively, if you under-tighten the bolts things might move that shouldn't - eg sump bolt vibrating out (it would have to be drastically under-tightened), dropping oil on the road in front of your back tyre.

    That's why the manufacturers have to state the failsafe method. Having said that, I own a torque wrench but don't use it on every bolt, just the important ones I don't work on very often. I don't bother for an oil change.
  14. The only time you need to pull a torque wrench out for a bike is when you're putting an engine back together.
  15. And? Unless it is a reversible one, by using it backwards and 'jumping' on it [ your words ] any bolt/nut you do up now will be under spec. That being the case I hope you have got it re calibrated or tossed it.

    We have a 500fp / 680Nm tension wrench at work for checking the Hendrickson suspension bolts on our truck fleet, and wouldn't even consider using that to undo anything, let alone jump on it as well !
  16. Oil filters are a notorious pain in the arse to unscrew.

    So... once you start, you won't give a poo about torque settings, you'll just want a big hammer and a beer or six.