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DIY respraying

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' at netrider.net.au started by jd, Apr 3, 2008.

  1. I sort of knew I'd get carried away with this bike - problem with tidying up the mechanicals and respraying the frame is that now the bodywork looks crappy. Since there's not much in the way of fairings on the Kat I am seriously considering having a crack at this myself - I've had a bit of practice with spraying smaller components and touch-up work on cars though only ever with aerosol cans. Was sort of thinking that given there's not a lot to spray on the Kat (probably not much more total surface area than than the average car bonnet) I might be able to avoid using an air compressor/spraygun and just stick with pre-packed aerosols (the quality of which seems to have improved a lot over the last few years).

    I'm thinking of using a metallic acrylic lacquer, possibly with some sort of clear coat over the top (obviously I want the paint to be fuel resistant). Just wondering if anyone who's resprayed bikes before (either professionally or at home) could give any tips/advice - even a link to an online guide of some sort might be useful.

    What I mainly want to know is things like what's needed in the way of stripping/prepping plastic and metal surfaces, what primer to use (for an acrylic lacquer - don't mind using a separate one for metal and plastic components) and what clear coats are/aren't suitable to use (or if they're even needed). I know there's all sorts of things that shouldn't be mixed or used over other things but can never remember what they are (other than never using acrylic over enamel).

    And yes I know it won't be as good as a professional job, but I don't mind taking the time to properly prep the surface and to sand/polish where needed to get something that hopefully looks at least reasonably decent and lasts for a while. Gotta do something over winter ;).
  2. I did mine, it's easy.

    I've got the links but they are at home.

    PM me if you like, so I'll remember....
  3. DIY spray painting motorbike link thing i wrote a while ago
    needs an update

    That should answer a heap of your questions.
    U dont have to use a gun/compressor u can get custom colours (acrylic) mixed into a can for u. "uspool" or somthing simmilar most auto paint places do it.

    Theres are separate primers for plastic and metal.
    Dont think u will have much luck with a acrylic thats fuel ressitant.
  4. Ahh yes that helps a lot, thanks for that. I know a local place that'll custom mix in an aerosol though I noticed K+H seem to have a range of pre-mixed acrylic metallics that might be suitable.

    I definitely want to avoid playing with isocyanate based paints at home :shock:.

    Didn't think acrylics were fuel resistant but is it possible to use a self-priming clear epoxy or something over the top to seal it?
  5. I would give the new 2 pack that Dupont makes a try. No need to bake in an oven. Also, I have seen some pretty decent results from one of those Cigweld Easysprayers -a glorified vacuum cleaner type spray gun. Not much more than 100 bucks & way better than rattle cans :wink: I have painted a couple of bikes in acrylic but would not use it again. Mainly due to toughness & chemical/petrol resistance.
  6. No, dont believe anything like that exists in a top coat.
    If it does i havnt seen it.
    As everything that comes in 1 can hardens by evaporation of thinners. Petrol is a thinner so unless u have a chemical reaction to make something which was liquid turn hard, such as a hardner/catylist. Then a solvent/thinner will be able to disolve it.

    Ur best bet is to just layer on heaps of acryylic clear coat. Sand with 1200/1500 grit and machine buff. Pitty the fool who tries to do it by hand.

    I woudnt worry about the fuel resistance thing not like u go pouring fuel on your bike. And even if u do chanes are u will only damage some of the top layers of clear coat. Sooloution to that is to just buff it out and add more layers if needed.

    Even 2 pack paints will get eaten by fuel its just there more resistant too it.
  7. Ahh okay. Wasn't exactly planning on dousing the bike with fuel, just concerned about possible spillages around the fuel filler. Doesn't sound like it'll be a problem then since I usually clean those straight away and also tend to keep a good coat of polish on any car/bike I own.
    Given the age of the bike I'm guessing the current paint would probably be an acrylic anyway (probably full of lead).
  8. jd -as far as I am aware it is only the droplets of overspray that are harmfull to you. The paint booths that the professional painters use still only filter particles & exhaust the fumes to atmosphere. Just wear a proper filter mask & safety glasses & you will be fine. Pick a nice still sunny day & work outside. Not sure if ithats technically legal though :LOL: :LOL:
  9. I know someone who did a computer case with a metalic blue isocyanate paint, Turned out fcuking amazing. He just did it in his backyard with a good respirator by memory.
  10. Actually it's the isocyanate vapours that are harmful, and anything short of a full facemask with an organic filter would simply be a waste of time. Chemical resistant clothing like one of those Tyvek sperm suits would also be essential.
    I'd never contemplate 2-pack spraying at home, far better to pay for a professional spray than take the risk IMO. And I'd rather leave it as is than pay for a professional respray. Which only leaves acrylic lacquers or enamels I guess.
  11. Here's a couple of pics, took me three afternoons to paint all the plastics,
    I'd done the filling etc.



    and now for the instructions (thanks to the good folks at FZR1000.co.uk)

    ok, so it's difficult, it's hard, it's impossible

    if this is what you think - your wrong....

    it is possible to do d.i.y. paintwork & get good results,
    2 things are needed to make this do-able

    1 - patience
    2 - forget the way you already think of paint

    and it is possible to do a bloody good job with can-sprays too

    preperation is key to good paintwork,
    i will not go into details of filling / fibreglassing here - but instead concentrate purely on the applying of paint,

    presuming you have done all the prep work and are ready for paint,

    here goes,

    wipe down with a tack-rag to remove dust and crud
    light coats of primer must be applied
    allowing time for each coat to dry before adding the next,
    the first initial coats should be misted on - light coverage - not trying to make all the object the same uniform colour

    do not worry about runs or the finish of the paint - it is irrelivent = honest

    when you have the object fully misted over - start to apply wet coats
    these should cover the surface in one full coat,
    apply a few good coats and allow to dry fully before step 2
    step 2:-

    flat the surface of the primer,
    this will look similar to this when you start (example pic)

    the key to everything is to make that top surface as smooth as possible
    as you flat it you will notice the shiney finish to the primer becomes dulled,
    keep wet'n'drying untill the whole of the surface is dull,
    if you have indents which show shiney - flat them out,
    if you rub through the primer - dont worry
    wait untill its dry etc,
    and respray some more primer onto the surface,
    cover this well, the flat this area down again
    when your finished you should have a nice flat/smooth surface like below

    when you have the whole of the object flatted down to a matt / dull finish
    your ready to start to apply some colour

    top coat - colour,

    before you start to paint - wipe everything to be painted with a 'tack-rag'
    this will make sure dust and crud is removed before you start

    again start with dust coats,
    these provide a good key for the rest of the paint to bond to,

    as above (primer) keep doing this then apply the wet coats,
    cover the whole of the area,
    and what you should end up with should resemble this
    (cross sectional view)

    again - if you have any runs etc - do not panic,
    the finish of the paint is not important - coverage is.....
    now you have lovely shiney paint - time to attack it agian...
    trust me - this is where you start to make a second rate spray job into a job to be proud of, :wink:

    flat it down as described above for primer,
    untill its all flat looking and dull,

    forget thinking of paint as paint
    it's not, it is pigment. a colour thats all, what your about to do is scrap the paint manufactuirers idea of paint finish and shine quality and put your own onto the paint instead,
    (i did say forget the way you think of paint) laughing

    once you have the whole surface flatted and matt finished,
    it should look like this,

    your on the home run now,
    the next stage is to apply the clear laquer,
    this not only protects the paint, but adds that in depth shine which is what we all see and judge the bike by,

    again light coats to start - then the wet coats
    the more laquer you apply - the better the finish = simple,

    when you have finished with the laquering,
    what you will have is whats been seen above,
    an uneven surface, you may have runs, there may be an ornage-peel look to it,

    do not panic,

    flat the surface down again
    hang-on..... you have applied a shiney finsih and now the burk wants you to make it look dull??

    yep - make it dull,
    dull so you can make it shiney

    when you have all the shiney finsih removed,
    and the whole of the surface is looking flat and dull,
    allow it all to dry,

    now comes the magic,
    t-cut rubbing compound,

    as you t-cut it polishes the laquer,
    (just like granny did with all them brass ornaments)

    t-cut untill its all shiney,
    and when you have it all done,
    apply a good quality wax,
    as found in car shops etc,

    hey presto - you should now have a bloody good paint job,
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Oh, and here's the one I printed and stuck on the garage wall.

    It was about 28 deg so I allowed 15mins between coats.

    Primer spray cans from stupidcheap, used two but I was doing black on black

    Midnight black from same place, used two and a half.

    1) sand back smooth (using progressively smoother paper) depending on scratches i usually start with 100-220-320-400-600
    2) clean (soapy water is ok) mix in 99% iso alcohol to help it evaporate faster
    3) tack cloth (you'd best be doing it in a clean place with NO dust)
    4) spray primer, lightly on each coat until you have a consistent colour (4-5 coats worked nicely on my fairing and tank)
    5) sand back smooth 600 grit wet
    6) clean
    7) tack cloth
    8) spray paint, lightly on each coat until you have a consistent colour be sure you get nice even tack coats and progressively spray heavier
    9) sand back smooth depending on orange peal start with either 1000 or 1500
    10) clean
    11) tack cloth
    12) spray laquer, 4-5 coats, use petrol resistant for the tank
    9) sand back smooth usually start with 1500 then go as high as you like
    10) clean
    11)polish using a high quality product meant for fresh paint. and please god give i a chance to cure.

    • Like Like x 1
  13. Cheers for that Hawklord - pretty much confirms the method I've used for other (smaller) things in the past. I've polished more than a few resin mounted samples in the past too and can definitely relate to that dull, but flat, surface finish referred to ;).

    Your bike certainly seems to have come up looking very nice, so seems like it's definitely worth a go. The hardest part will most likely be the surface prep (and getting the old decals off), and of course I still need to decide on a colour :-k

    Edit: You don't know the fuel-resistant lacquer you used by any chance?
  14. hi...acrylic paint is rubbish.....its not suitable at all.Make sure you degreas the panels before working on them thoroughly,inside and out.And when ever you paint something on a panel(primer,basecoat or clear)wipe it down with Prepsol,then wipe it down with a clean dry rag after that,then tack rag.
  15. There is an isocyanate free 2 pack clear available. It's made by Hi Chem & oddly enough called Iso Free clear :wink: It is suitable for clear coating acrylic paint systems as well as their range of Iso Free 2 pack base colours. Unfortunately only available in 4 litre packs. Here's one I prepared earlier yellowvfrleft.
    Mmmm Shiny :grin: