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Discs in the wet

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' at netrider.net.au started by OldNick, Aug 28, 2015.

  1. #1 OldNick, Aug 28, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2015
    So I just took delivery of my new trike. Driving it around the block, wet discs from recent rain. Apply front brake...nothing. Now I was going very slow, as I am new to the trike scene and the block is 2Ha of trees with very winding tracks, so no biggy. Also I was sort of expecting it from my bike days.



    However, is there any way to help this? I can remember riding in the wet and only having the rear (drum!) brakes for a scary amount of time when braking.

    Thanks for any help

    Nick
     
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  2. bed the brake pads in first. not much friction until they are.
    water should get wiped off in a few revolutions of the discs, so more like pad bedding... or shit compound pads
     
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  3. how old's the bike? Is the brake fluid old? may need changing?
     
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  4. Wow I read this title so wrong
     
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  5. Geezus, this I missed, new and no brakes? ring the shop asap... no matter where its being ridden.
     
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  6. "did you try turning it off and on again?" :D

    are they vac assisted brakes or conventional (for bikes)
     
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  7. WD40 is an excellent water repellent. You'll be fine.
     
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  8. Water shouldn't make that much difference... Was this the first ride? Have the pads & discs been warmed up and bedded in yet?
     
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  9. theres something wrong with your brakes... or the front tyre was sliding and you didnt notice.
     
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  10. The brakes should stop in any condition, even if not fully bedded in (just not as effective). Remember that new tires are also very slippery for the first 300km until they are bedded in, not just the brakes.

    Role the bike/trike at a walking pace and squeeze the brake to see if your getting strong stopping force. If the lever goes straight to the bar without resistance their is a serious fault and you should phone the dealer for them to pick it up.

    You would have liked to think the roadworthy/final assembly and subsequent test ride would have caught this.
     
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  11. if your trike has those low angle forks you wont transfer weight down to the weel properly, and with increased mass, and new tyres.... and training wheels.... its very possible you locked it without noticing.
     
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  12. What trike is it?

    Does it have drilled rotors?
     
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  13. drilled rotors are for cooling.....
     
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  14. Slots are considered the best design feature for water dissepation but holes do almost as good a job.

    If you've ever ridden a bike with a solid disc, you will understand what happens when you get a water film on the surface.

    The role of drilled holes on a solid motorcycle style rotor, as cooling is actully quite debatable. On a car typr rotor, where they have periphirary venting, it's a different story.

    But I can't say I've seen a non-drilled new bike for a very long time.
     
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  15. Coming from a car background, I can say I have never had water be much of an issue in terms of brake performance. A little bit delayed for the first rotation or so, but still had bite.

    Get a drum wet inside, and you'll know about it though. Instant lock!
     
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  16. I don't know about that. I always found wet drums to provide a whole lot of nothing before reaching the point of locking.
     
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  17. Try pressure washing a Belmont (4-wheel drum brakes) and not locking them up pulling up to the road to pull up...
     
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  18. I never owned a Belmont, but I've had others with jam tins. It probably depends a bit on the brake booster, but my experience with them on cars and bikes when wet was "nothing nothing nothing nothing nothing LOCK!" unless I did the gentle brake drag to dry them out before going very far.
     
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  19. I guess that may have been the case, but as I was so used to having to try to put the pedal through the floor to stop anyway, I just didn't notice the difference. Hooray for unboosted drums...
     
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  20. Definitely has nothing to do with a wet dIsc
     
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