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different type of chain master link?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by vintec, Oct 7, 2010.

  1. i've got MCS CBT6 chain riveting tool. on the instructions manual, it says that it's suitable to break DID chains type 520, 525 different sizes etc with join link type JR, FJ, XI, ZM, PL

    what i'm concern is the next line: it's suitable to rivet DID chains with link type ZJ

    I googled DID chain and particularly ZJ link type, master link rivet center is hollow but my RK chain master link rivet is solid, so i'm wondering if the riveting tool is suitable for my chain. thanks in advance
  2. From memory the CBT6 is a copy of the original DID chain riveting tool KM500R.. (big and bulky looks like a press??)

    These will push any plate on to any size chain from 420 up and will rivet any rivet type link.

    DID reticently have completely redone their classifications and simplified every thing..

    No more O-ring chains, all of them an x-ring..
  3. Use the chain breaker to INSTALL the new new chain a per directions and a 6' angle grinder to get the old one off, much easier and quicker.
  4. With a solid master link pin you probably should use a riviting tool that has a head that will "quad stake" the pin rather than punch the center and flare the end.
    I said probably, because I 've got a solid pin ( EK ) and the shop used a riviter designed to flare the end. They broke the pin (on the riviter) doing this, but the end of the master link pin ended up being flared out, so all was OK.
    The end of the pin only needs to be flared out a small amount.
    The plate needs to be pressed on the correct distance on the master link pin.
    Its such a tight fit, I think this is what holds the chain together. The flaring is a back up.
    I say this because EK make a master link that does not require a tool to instal.
    The pins in the master have threaded ends which allow the plate to be pressed on with two nuts supplied. Once the plate is pressed on to the correct distance the nuts are undone, thrown away, the threaded section of the pins snaped off with pliers and two small O rings slipped on to the pins.
    I can't imagine the O rings holding the plate on too much, not too sure what their purpose is. So as far as I can see it's all relying on the interferance fit of the plate on the pins. Someone else may know more about this