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Diagonosing Clutch Issues on Yamaha DT175

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Lachiepower0402, Oct 16, 2015.

  1. I first noticed a problem with my bike when my uncle rode it, I can't ride very well, i'm still learning. He was going round the yard changing from 4th to 5th or something like that and the clutch locked up and he was flying towards a barn, so he had to bail off the bike.

    The bike has been sitting in a barn for about 4 to 5 years and this was the first time riding it after that period. I'm thinking it might be the clutch plates sticking to the basket? It will need an oil change, desperately. Very old oil, about 8 years old, LOL. Could the old oil do it?

    I have also noticed that the clutch sometimes does not disengage when I role the bike while its off.

    If it's the clutch, about how much would the basket and friction plates cost?

    Thank you in advance
  2. Simple things first, check the clutch cable isn't jamming, frayed etc. Lubricate the cable if it has been sitting for 5 years.

    Friction plates seem to be about $85

    Basket is unlikely to need replacing, clutch springs probably need replacement, a good thing to do if you are replacing plates. About $20
  3. That was very helpful thank you, I will get round to doing all of this when I get up to my friends place. But my bike is a 1992 model, will these parts still work?

    I've also got to replace both sets of shoes and I could not find any parts that specifically say they work on 1992 models.
  4. Not sure how much change there was between models. Maybe best to contact one of the companies and ask them. I would guess there wouldn't be a lot of difference but you can never tell. You can also try a Yamaha dealer, you will pay a bit more for OEM parts but you will know they are specific for your model.

    Yamaha Dealers NSW
  5. I was able to find a store which sells parts for my motorcycle all of the parts that I might need.

    I have purchased a cable lubber, just to make the job easier and because it will come in handy for my bicycles as well.

    I have purchased tri-flow lubricant, which I found to be one of the popular lubricants.

    When I get time to go up and work on the bike, I will try lubbing up the cable and changing the transmission oil. I was thinking of changing the engine oil, but how do I drain the auto-lubber?
  6. engine and transmission share the same oil, usually 10 or 15W-40 ( assuming we are talking about a 4 stroke.....not up with chookie models ).

    Some bikes the clutch may be a bit 'draggy' when cold but free up when the engine is warm.

    If the chain has an auto lube setup on it that will/should be a seperate oil supply to the engine/trans
  7. My bike is a 2 stroke. Since I'm not an experienced rider I have yet to change gears on it. I will have to get my uncle to do that for me. I will try it when it's warmed up.

    By autolube I meant the engine oil is autolube. My bikes does have seperate oil for the engine and transmission.
  8. Ok, my bad. I take back everything except the above....that said transmission will probably take 10w-30 or 10w-40 type engine oil.
    Be careful to choose one that is not friction modified ie. complies with JASO-MA.

    If in doubt, Motul makes 'Trans Oil' just for your application.
    TRANSOIL - Motul[application]=141&f[range]=21&f[viscosity]=38
    TRANSOIL EXPERT - Motul[application]=141&f[range]=21
  9. It is one of those grade's, just can't remember which one. I will probably get that Motul oil if I can find where it's sold and its the right grade. Would you know where it's sold?
  10. My last question was quite stupid, I looked it up myself. I'm going to buy the transmission oil and work on the bike this weekend.

    Would you say I lubricate the cables and take the bike for a ride to test it out. Then if it still sticks, replaces the transmission oil?

    I also passed my pre learner test on the weekend and I'm going for my DKT this Tuesday. So i've finally trained myself in changing gears, etc.
  11. If the bike has been sitting for a while as per your original post I would be changing the oil filter and oil first thing. The engine oil and transmission oil is the same and comes from the same sump on most bikes.

    Congratulations o passing your Pre Learners.
  12. I suspected that I might have to replace both oils. But as far as I can see in the manual, the bike does not have a oil filter, surely it must, but I can't see it listed in the repair manual. Same with the oil, I believe the oils are separated because it recommends two different oils. 10W-30 for the transmission and 2 stroke air cooled oil for the engine. I can't see in the manual how to drain the engine oil either. Unless I take out the oil bottle and tip it out.

    Thanks! It was a lot easier than I suspected.
  13. What I'll probably actually do is lube the cables, drain the oil from the transmission, drain the oil from the autolube bottle. Then fill up both. Take it for a ride and see if the problem is fixed. I may also replace the air filter in the process, it will need replacing regardless. I will also try and look for the oil filter as well.

    What do you think?
  14. In a two stroke the fuel needs oil mixed in with it for lubrication of the combustion chambers, their valves and pistons etc. In later model two strokes this is pumped in automatically from a separate reservoir and is a continuous loss system, the oil gets burnt in the combustion so you need to check and top this up every couple of fuel refills.

    But the lower part of the engine, its clutch, gearbox etc has a common oil reservoir. To drain it you generally run the bike for 5 - 10 minutes so the oil is runny and then there will be a drain plug on the bottom of the bike. Stop the bike put a pan underneath and remove the plug.
  15. That's what I thought was the case, glad I could get some clarification.

    So I should just top the engine oil up and not drain it?

    I will change the trans oil and lube the cables like I said and come back to you on the weekend to give the results. Fingers crossed, it solves my clutch issues.
  16. Yeah the two stroke oil will just burn away, perhaps let it run down a bit so you are getting rid of the old oil before topping up but it shouldn't matter.
  17. I'll probably just let it burn off and keep checking it to make sure I don't run out, then when it gets low, top it up.
  18. Would this oil be alright, I think so, but I want to just make sure.

    Request Rejected

    I wanted to get it from supercheap/other, because I don't have enough time to get the Motul as it would have to be posted.
  19. It will do the job, the higher temperature rated 10w-40 would be better. Because the clutch and gearbox share the same oil friction modifiers are the thing to avoid. Small engine oil doesn't usually have that stuff.