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Dead electrics, main fuse instantly fails

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Morbo28, Aug 24, 2012.

  1. Hi All,

    Just wondering if you might have any input on an electrical problem on the Daytona 675. I was riding along, happy as Larry, when the whole bike completely died - engine stopped, no dash, nothing.

    I traced it to a main (30A) fuse. The fuse sits just after the battery (the two thick red and black leads run to it and the main harness plugs into that fuse block.

    As SOON as I put a new fuse in, it blows immediately, without turning ignition on. No other fuses are blown further down the line (engine, fan, indicators etc). If I unplug the harness and insert the fuse, it doesn't blow.

    I can't see any short, but I guess it doesn't mean it's not there. I'm figuring it's either a short somewhere, or a component (such as R/R, solenoid etc) might be blown internally, shorting the system out.

    I'm okay at basic electrics, but that level of fault finding (testing components and knowing what the readings should be) is probably a bit beyond me.

    Just checking if anyone has a moment of clarity and reckons they might be able to suggest what it might be, or a known issue. Otherwise I'll drop it to the shop...

  2. Something is shorting to the frame. Have a look around and make sure there is no stripped wires or anything.
  3. PM zenali. He had something similar with his street triple just recently. Don't think he had the compulsively blowing fuses, but for the sake of an email it would be worth getting what info he may have.
  4. Long shot but check that one of the filaments on one of your head light bulbs hasn't failed and is touching inside the bulb. Have seen it where a bulb blows and shorts out the whole bike. Unplug both bulbs at the back of the head light and see what happens. Apart from that it has to go to a shop for a look over.
  5. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. E2W, I'm running HID lights, but along those same lines I might unplug a bunch of accessories such as lights and anything else I can isolate and see how it goes.

    Along a similar line to your story, the Daytona has a wonderful feature, where if you blow a horn fuse, the WHOLE ****ING BIKE won't start until you replace the pissy little 10A fuse :-s For a non-critical circuit...and it happened here. Lucky I had one
  6. Im betting HID circuit is something to do with it.
    • Like Like x 1
  7. hapend to me 3months from new r/r fail hope youre still warranty
  8. Nope no more warranty.

    Yep so as before I'm still looking at a short, the R/R or a component such as lights that have been munted. Glad we're all on the same page :D

    Will try a bunch of things and failing that just drop it off to get sorted by the shop. It's coming up to service time and I need new rubber anyhoo, so I'll bend over and get it all done at once. Got a coupla trackies coming up so I need to get it sorted in the next few weeks.
  9. My bet is the reg/rec. its about the only thing direct to battery NOT through ignition, unplug rec/rec connector then try the main fuse again
  10. ^i tend to agreed with you...it has to be something close to the battery, circuit-wise.
  11. Take all the aux fuses out & try from there, that will eliminate a few variables.

    Definitely sounds like something shorting to ground.
  12. Disconnected the reg/rec, inserted fuse, connected battery, didn't blow.

    Turned on ignition - success!

    So it would seem that the r/r is the culprit (unless it feeds power to something further along the line that is shorted, meaning removing the r/r takes the short out of the system).

    Thinking of going aftermarket, they reckon they can be more reliable and cheaper. Depends...if my local Triumph dealer has one in stock I'd be tempted to just grab a stock one so I can use the bike this week ... :-k

    Sounds like it's diagnosed, thanks guys all good posibilities, looks like you were on the money ducfreak :applause: I'll put up a final post to let you know if that resolves it so I don't get pmd in two years asking what the final solution was!
  13. :angel: no worries .

    The only thing back from the Reg/rec is the alternator.

    Diode/s shorted in the Reg rec feed current back through to the alternator (VERY LOW RESISTANCE) so fuse blows. alternator should be OK provided the fuse worked :)
  14. The dealer sells a replacement r/r for $540. There are aftermarket ones for US$140 so I reckon it's a better bet to grab one of those. It's meant to be higher capacity than the stock item anyway,
  15. add some heat transfer grease when you install.
  16. Thanks, I noticed they use that on these plugs. I guess you can get that Jaycar.
  17. Yep just found it on their website. $9.95 for conductive carbon grease. Coolcoolcool.
  18. Update: Reg/Rec arrived yesterday from regulatorrectifier.com $149 plus $38 delivery from the states.

    Used conductive grease, fitted it up and all working spot on now. :) saved about $400 over OEM version and this is a MOSFET unit.

    So far I'd recommend that website, quick, correct order, works well so far. I'll post up if there is an issue in the future but I don't expect there to be.
  19. Got a replacement stator for the gumby from these guys back in March...so far no problems..great price ( compared to the local parts prices ), quick delivery... no problems recommending regulatorrectifier.com
  20. edit: Nevermind, i see you did the upgrade lol.