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De-tuning a bike?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by removed-6, May 22, 2006.

  1. I'm not sure if it would be classified as that but if you have a revvy bike like an R1 or the like, can it be re tuned, say on a dyno, to be less revvy and more torquey? This would make a bike like this a bit more friendly around town.

    Can it be done?


  2. It could be done, probably best with a restrictor in the inlet and remapping to suit. A heavier flywheel/clutch setup may dampen it a little but not huge amounts.

    Easily? not really.

    But why? if you don't want R1 performance don't buy one. Plenty of alternatives out there.
  3. changing the gearing would make a big difference.

    Go down 2 teeth on the front go up 4 teeth on the rear.

    ???????? what, isn't is supposed to wheely on idle? :rofl:
  4. I'd be inclined to go the other way. Happy to be corrected, but AFAIK opening up the exhaust shifts peak torque to a higher RPM, so a restrictor in the exhaust (rather than the inlet) and remapping should make for an engine with better low-down grunt.

    Like Mothra said - why not just get a different bike?
  5. Yes mate, you simply pull off two spark plug leads....

    ...or you could just buy a big v-twin.
  6. A big V twin sports bike? Which one? That's the problem, I would love a sports bike look and feel, but the grunty bottom end of a V twin.........so what do I get?
  7. A Buell
  8. A Buell, A VTR SP1/2 , A TL1000R, Ducati??
  9. nice collection of bikes there :grin: I'll settle for any of them :wink:
  10. Yeah, I think a Ducati fits the bill nicely. :)

    The Suzi TL might be an option if you're on a budget...

    EDIT: how could I forget? Aprilia make sportsbike twins too - wish I could have one, actually!
  11. go test ride a buell XB12R with a race kit. you will have the ultimate in twisties bike. yeah they are not the fastest. i know mine tops out at 225 ( track days, boys :wink: ) but it can hold a higher speed thru tight hairpins than most other bikes. i know when i go up thru gingers (mostly third gear by the way) i can keep with or out perform many other hypo jap bikes with no worries. unless they have a death wish :LOL:
    then when your back in town, you have the ultimate cruise bike, with the big v twin grunt, sound and unique look. :cool:
  12. hey do not forget the SV series equivalent to the next generation TL series. These are Suzuki's forgot to mention this.
  13. Yeh, the SV 1000 would be my weapon of choice.
    Consider the older VTR1000 Firestorm, if you're on a budget.
  14. Yeah mate I'd be looking at your selection of bike before anything else. If you walked into a mechanic's and asked him to detune your R1 you'd probably leave with a spanner up your bum.

    There's heaps of bikes out there designed to be ridden on the road instead of being totally focused on the track. The Hornet 9 is the midrange-tuned version of the Fireblade engine. The FZ1 is the detuned R1 engine - and the riding position on both those bikes is much better for the road then the arse-in-the-air sportsbike riding position; you can see miles further down the road.

    There's plenty of v-twin options if you happen to like that sort of engine (i don't, they feel crap to me - of course I'm willing to be convinced otherwise!) - or the Triumph 955 triple is worth a look, it's a real-roads superbike.

    You'll have no idea what sort of bike and engine you get along with until you test ride a bunch of different bikes.
  15. Can retune an R1 engine for more mid-range with long-stem velocity stacks. Velocity stacks alter the natural harmonics of the air-flow into the throttle bodies/carbs, which is of course proportional to the revs, and by altering the length of them you can alter the parts of the rev range where the bike makes the bulk of its torque.

    Also can retard the ignition timing slightly for more mid-range grunt, or could probably buy a Power Commander III as well, and get them to remap it primarily for mid-range.

    Don't have to go to a Dyno tuning shop and ask them to detune it. Just go to a tuning shop and tell them that you don't really want to boost peak power, but would rather tune it to fatten out the mid-range, and they'll happily do that for you. Normally they're used to dealing with people who want insane peak power at horrible cost to the mid-range, but they also know that there's the odd person out there who "gets it" and asks to have the bike tuned for maximum mid-range grunt too.

    A properly tuned R1 engine will have just as much torque, if not more, than any V-Twin engine of equivalent capacity, rev-per-rev.
  16. mmm triples... 955, 1050, sprints and daytona's speed 3's and T595. If you want a little less go change the gearing on you chain as Vic said but I'd buy a bigger rear as you may end up over binding the chain on the front sprocket by going down teeth and increasing chain wear.
  17. you could always take the cam chain off and accidentally put it on with the exhaust cam retarded a notch or two.

    Seen a bike like that that produced so much more torque than stock it was unbelievable - only found the real problem later when hooked up to a dwell/tach (no tachometer on the b ike) that showed it would only rev to about 1/2 of what it should.
  18. Might be a good time to take a look at the torque of a smaller engine such as a daytona 675 :)

    From http://www.motorcycledaily.com/23september05_triumph675.htm

  19. I am happy to be corrected, but I find that hard to believe. Isn't torque just the capacity to make horesepower do work, and doesn't the mechanical advantage of a longer stroke affect that to a large degree? Last time I rode an R1 I don't recall it having much engine braking.
  20. hp is just torque x rpm

    Look at this 2004 1000cc dyno comparison chart. Specifically note the GSXR1000's power curve (the light yellow curve). It's above all others throughout the rev range between 3500 and 10000rpm. Since hp = torque x rpm, subsequently the GSXR1000K4 is making more torque than any of the V2's between 3500 and 10000rpm. Actually above 10000rpm it's also making more power than any of the V2s, so it's therefore got more torque than any 1000cc V2/triple from 3500rpm onwards.


    The R1's power curve level pegs or exceeds any of the V2/triples from 3000rpm onwards, meaning that it's making the same amount of torque rev per rev, but has the advantage of revving higher, so therefore more power at the high end.

    Using that curve, you can happily then move it about through tuning to give it even more low-end grunt using fairly cheap things like velocity stacks to push the power curve about.