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Cruizing RPM, wearing engine in

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by driekus, Sep 8, 2004.

  1. Ok ready for another set of stupid questions, when wearing engine in Ive been told to take the engine close to redline and that Im doing making sure to give the engine a variety of RPMs. Maximum power is rated at 10500RPM whilst maximum torque is rated at 8500RPM and redlines around 12000RPM I have no idea where to cruise at, it chugs along nice at 6000RPM but Im pretty sure that is way too low. Do I need to cruise in the region of peak torque? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Finally started to get the gear changes right, never was taught if you make the change as quick as possible like the flick of the wrist and toes it doesnt jolt at all. Now to keep practising. THanks for all the help and answering the at times silly questions

  2. Heres a couple of schools of thought on break in but you probably have details about what to do in your manual. I'd follow what is in your manual as the golden rule then have a read of the below and see what you want to do. But one thing that I have noticed with all break-in procedures is to NEVER cruise, you need to be always slightly changing where your engine is sitting in RPM every couple of minutes.

    I'm not sure what bike you have, but after I broke it in my old CBR250R I'd probably sit around 7000-8000 RPM or lower if I had a headache that day. But on my CBR1000RR I rarely cruise at any RPM above 5000 mainly just because it feels and sounds right and I have enough grunt to get me out of there if I need to. Added to that is the fact that if I was at higher RPM on the 1000RR I'd surely get booked for speeding even while sitting in first.

    But if you are concerned give you manufacturer a ring and pose the question to them, that way you won't void any warrantee using an incorrect break-in procedure.

    I wouldn't consider this a silly question at all, it’s actually a pretty thorny issue and posing it actually demonstrates foresight and concern for prolonging your engines life as much as possible.

    The more mechanically inclined probably can give a better better response so I'll defer to them.


  3. Ive been following these guidelines without realising it with the only one Ive been probably guilty of not following is the smooth throttle transitions due to inexperience although have gotten a lot better very quickly particularly when changing gears.
    The only input I have from the dealer is dont redline it in the first 1000km which is pretty inspecific. But I have definately notice after first 200km now at about 400km that when I changed to reving it quite a bit the whole thing loosened up quite significantly and is loosening up by the kilometre
  4. forget about the dealer talk to the guys that made the bike (i.e. Honda, Suzuki, etc) they will have the best idea of what is the best practive for the engine that they have designed and built. If you can't contact them then there should be at least a paragraph on the engine break in procedure in your owners manual. If in doubt the manuafacturer and your owners manual should be the authority since they dictate if you get a warruntee coverage or not.
  5. The information in the owners manual is inline with what the dealers said, "dont over rev the engine" which is in line with dont redline the engine. But I may talk to the manufacturer at least by email
  6. Matt232 has got it in one go.

    Engineers have designed the pistons to produce stable power over the life of the engine. The breaking in period should NOT 'teach' the engine to prefer any particular condition.

    You will find that if you ride the bike carefully in the city, and ride with REV variety on straight lines you will naturally 'teach' the ignition components to be more responsive and durable.

    You will probably need to do this for the first 1000 kilometers, but this is the time you would probably be learning the intricacies of the new bike anyway.
  7. gotta hate this topic, i just read that article that someone else posted that said you should be revving hard and getting to red-line within the first 20kms ... who knows what to think
  8. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask! I've asked lots & got lots of advice which has helped me enormously! Having said that riding with exp riders is where you will learn the most!
  9. Like I said there are two schools of thought, ride it like you stole it or cane it on a dyno, or do a methodical run in without taxing the engine too much. Who knows which is best.
  10. I don't have a clue about bikes, but I'm interested about this as well, as I might be getting a 2005 Honda cbr600RR close to next week. (hoping everything works out perfectly fine :) )

    Anyway, in a car you should stay below 80klms never rev the utter guts out of it
    never redline it
    take it easy in the first 1000klms
    you should try and get through the first 1000klms as fast as possable as you'll be able to push the car harder etc.

    If you rev and thrash the engine in about 6 to 12 months time you'll need to re-build the engine and it'll run like crap with-in 3 months, warranty doesn't cover you if you thrash the engine as they can tell by pistion scratch and heat stress of the engine parts etc.

    That's for a car I was going to do the same for the bike myself though not knowing anything about bikes I don't know if this is the best way to handle it.

    I find it interesting as to what some people here say about breaking in, as far as I know a non broken in engine isn't lubed at all and needs to gental time of getting all parts lubed so that when you do run it to the shit house it won't break down etc, or be slow to get up in speed.

    They also don't use normal oils etc and these have to be burnned up or emptied out of the engine so when you get it serviced at the 1000 klm mark they top it up with the oils you should be putting into it and tighting up anything that has come lose.

    I would hate to think that people are revving the utter guts out of a brand new engine and something came lose and the piston punched out the block, because they simply didn't care.
  11. Ok heres a spin on all of this - a good friend of mine worked (used to work for) holden and said there is no need to run in modern car engines as they are 'bench run'.

    I'm a fan of the varied throttle etc for the bike motors as I've used that technique twice (both suzuki's) and had no oil useage from either motor (first to 54,000km and second to 20,000kms).
  12. What do you intend to change the oil to?

    There's a magnet at the sump oil drain hole, to grab onto metal chips etc.

    humm I'm now interested what will be in the 2005 bike manual for run-in.
  13. I'm reading that mototuneusa page and I'm finding some interesting things that I don't understand.

    1- why do you want the rings to press hard into the cylinder bore and scratch the sides of it, allowing gas the escape via these scrapes.

    It's the oil that seals around the piston rings, that's why you have holes 2 on either side of the pistons as oil flows in via the crank sharft and forced out around the pistions to flow back down the bore walls.

    Running a car engine will stuff it and it will run slugish, I've seen and been in a car that wasn't run-in at all, and the engine was stuffed in months.

    2- warming up.

    These days it's pointless and a waste of fuel to warm up 1990+ engines as they are now made to drive straight away.

    Some things on that page seem right to me but the other myths most is crap, from having seem plently of cars and drag cars doing most of that stuff and pumping out heaps of HP.

    I can understand that in a motorbike you'd have problems opening up air pipes etc, which then you'd also have to open up the exhuast pipes as well.

    Fuel injection tuneing hah!, there's a tv show called rides an USA cars show but none the less, there's a guy who does this as his living and he has a corvette pumping out 1200HP easy and then tunes up the rides car to 800HP go and tell him he's really a myth.

    I'll stop now.
  14. It's on the internet so it must be true and work.