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Crash repair parts

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by starling_bird, Jan 16, 2010.

  1. Had a low-speed off today. My first. '96 Honda CB250F Hornet.
    Busted the brake leaver, foot peg instrument cluster housing, front wheel guard, messed up the tank a bit. Also something in the front forks is slightly bent, don't know what, but presumably as a result of the bike clobbering a kerb after it fell.

    Question is where do I go for parts? I want to do as much of the fixing as I can myself. I don't think the 250 was sold outside Japan, so I'm having real trouble finding any parts on the interweb. Any good suppliers in Melbourne?


  2. These bikes are almost identical to the Hornet 600... Any Honda dealer will have at least the basic parts, like levers... Try Victorian Motorcycle wreckers and International Motorcycle Importers...
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  4. Levers you should be able to find on ebay reasonably cheaply.. they are usually common over lots of models..

    For the front suspension you either have a bent Triple clamp, or a bent fork(s) or both.. bent forks can be professionally straightened for $50-$100 each.. triple clamp you might be able to gently straighten urself once ur forks are straight..

    Here is a good guide to checking ur forks.. there is also stuff on removing them in there too if you need it..




    PS if ur instrument cluster is going to be stupidly expensive get one of these..
    http://s3performance.com.au/acewell-3969-digital-speedo-tacho-fuel-temp-volt-odo-p-2743.html im putting one in soon cos mine is cracked and its $250 for a second hand replacement!
  5. haha yeh ive been there a few times, i know what ya mean, its funny how many bikes they can fit in one small area.

    its amazing how many are continually written off
  6. Thanks for the info. I'll go part hunting today.
    What about the front wheel guard? It's all still attached but there's a crack right through. You can get that sort of thing plastic-welded can't you?
  7. Since the front guard doesn't really have much load on it i think that a bit of 2 part epoxy, some wet and dry to smooth it over then a lick of paint will fix it no problem..


  8. those aftermarket speedos look pretty good. Any chance I can plug in the existing speedo and tacho cables on the bike to these units? I guess they will need to be calibrated at least.

    Looking at the forks yesterday, looks like the right strut has moved 1 or 2mm up in the triples. That previous link said I can release that and good chance it will fix the problem. Just need to get the front end off the ground.
  9. For the tacho it is done by running a cable down to a spark plug lead and it senses the spark off the lead and converts it to rpm.. The speedo can be set up with a universal bike style magnetic sensor on the front wheel that is calibrated by the distance from the centre of the wheel.. might be a bit fiddly but you should be able to get it spot on.. Or alternatively they sell connections for honda speedo's so it hooks straight up to the exsisting speedo cable..

    Link below..


    Cheers Craig
  10. bought my Acewell 3963 speedo today. I'll give S3 Performance a plug because they are cool chatty guys and gave me a good deal. Even if they live in a suburban maze with more dead ends than roads.
    That's my project for tomorrow. Excitement :)
  11. A pair of levers on eBay is $25 posted. Instrument housing, about $15 on eBay. There's been a 600 tank on there too at a reasonable price, don't know if it would fit, or if you really want to bother replacing a dented tank.

    There's this sitehttp://www.findapart.com.au/ where you enter what you want, and it automatically sends out that request to all wreckers in the country and they email you a response. If they want to sell the thing, then they actually need to quote a competitive price. I've used it and it's excellent.
  12. As always, it sounds easy before you start...

    • Wrong speedo cable and I can't see anywhere to fit the generic 1 on either wheel. No biggie, I'll get the right cable tomorrow.
    • Side stand has the switch on the wrong terminal. I suspect that will be an ass of a job to fix (no wiring/fuse table in manual)
    • Need power to the unit when ignition is off. It didn't occur to me that there would be no power anywhere on the bike when off. I'll run a wire back to the battery or the fuse just after the battery.
    • Indicator light reverses polarity depending on which indicator you press, so can't use that. I can wire from the indicators, just need to get the right connectors so no biggie.
    • Rev counter is crazy. Cable wraps around an HT lead to pick up spark pulses, but it jumps all over the place. Doesn't matter how few or many times you wrap it around the lead, so I'm open to suggestions on that.

    *sigh* I need a drink.
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  14. Well it's been anything but smooth sailing, and I learnt a bit more than I wanted to (like how to turn the starter motor without turning on the ignition, and subsequently crashing the bike without being on it).

    Issue now is temp sensor. I plugged in the OEM 1, but it works on about 10% the resistance of the Acewell 1 and so it is insistent that my bike is always overheating.
    I can't see where the sensor is even installed. There is something wired to the top corner of the radiator above the bottom hose, and I can't see where the top hose goes into the engine without removing the fuel tank.
    Anyone know about this?
  15. Thanks for the plug :)

    We are hidden away in the suburban backstreets to keep the rif-raf out ;)

    I will try to help out here with your speedo setup and maybe it will be of benefit to someone else at a later date.
  16. If the tacho reading is jumpy, you are getting too much signal into the Acewell. In the Acewell kit there would have been a 1000ohm resistor. Try installing that inline with the RPM pickup to reduce the input signal.

    Ideally, find where the OEM temp sensor is installed and replace it with the Acewell temp sensor. If you find the sensor size is different to the OEM temp sensor, we have them in different sizes, and we also have water temp adaptors (to install inline on the radiator hose) as an option if the engine temp sensors don't fit.