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Countershaft Spline worn - Cost to replace?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by cbwolf, Apr 22, 2009.

  1. Hey guys,

    I recently had my girlfriend's Suzuki 250 Bandit serviced, during which the mechanics discovered that the countershaft spline was dangerously worn and recommended it not be ridden. When i asked how much it would cost to replace, they told me that the parts themselves were not dear, but that to replace they would need to open the engine etc and the labour alone would be upwards of $1000.

    Does this sound correct? Is there any cheaper way to do this? My girlfriend is really upset as she loves her little bandit immensely.

    Any help would be much appreciated.
  2. My suggestion is that your girlfriend finds another boyfriend. One who is either a bike mechanic or mechanically inclined. She could provide "favours" to her new partner as a gesture of appreciation until the bike is repaired. Just a thought :)
  3. Three weeks ago I stripped on the spline on the same part. That sounds about right. For me, on a Yamaha SR500, $190 for new spline (half that for used, but it makes sense to put in a new one), gaskets plus anything needed while I'm there (rings? cam chain?), but a lot of labour! Surfing the net, that quote sounds right. It would be better to buy another engine and at least get get a spare engine into the deal! Another option is to pay somebody who is skilled but can charge half the mechaincal shops prices (which is not hard to do!). In my case, I can't afford to pay somebody, so even though I've never opened up an engine I'm going to have to do this myself!

    Depending on the wear, if it was me I might keep riding it if I had RACV, and just fix it asap. On my bike I've spaced out the sprocket to the remaining spline and am gently cruising the Kew Boulevard in the meantime (but that's 'cause I need to ride my drug!), within pushing distance from home. If timing is right, we could always help each other out in the rebuild. Get a comprehensive manual for starters...
  4. That's... One way I suppose Roarin.

    Yep, it's probably a big job. Sorry.
  5. I was quoted 600-800 labour if i dropped the engine and brought it to them, more if it was a ride-in-ride-out job.

    Feck that, i opened the sucker up and did it myself.

    My problem was 2nd gear, but its the same process to repair. Also, the K1 GSXR they improved the case design so you can uncover the gears without splitting the case at the crankshaft. Earlier blocks need to be separated at very inconvenient junctions as I suspect the Bandit will be.

    If only I had a newer bike with cassette type gearbox replacement, wouldn't have even needed to drop the engine!
  6. Inconvenient? It was the horizontal split-case that seperated the UJM from the previous generations of the it-only-leaks-oil-if-you-put-it-in british bikes with their crankcases split vertically. Revolutionary :cool:

    Having said that, I also have the same situation with a project I'm restoring. The worst part about that was I had the motor apart and rebuilt before I noticed the stripped thread. :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:

    I'm not keen to pull it apart again, so I'm exploring re-tapping options at the moment. I don't have the time-constraints you probably have tho.