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Could someone please explain?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Mik84, Mar 22, 2005.

  1. I know there are many topics on chain adjustment as i have searched for and read them. Thing is i dont even understand why there is such a large diffence in slack as you move the chain. The book says 35-40mm at the tightest point i think but it seems in that case at the loosest point its over 60mm. Does this just mean the chain has had it?

    Also while i have your attention :)



    I also noticed when fiddling with the bike on the centre stand that when running if you hold in the clutch and engage 1st the rear wheel starts to spin. I assume thats not suppose to happen and that the clutch isnt disengaging proprerly. I tried using the adjustment on the cable but the wheel still spins at the furthest adjustment... any ideas?
     
  2. My last bike was a zzr 250. I'm not sure about the chain problem, I'd guess your right in saying it might have had it.

    The rear wheel spinning when the clutch is disengaged is typical of the zzr I think. Does the bike also jump forward a bit if you start it in neutral and select first gear?

    My zzr used to do both these things when it was started from cold, but after a long ride it wasn't a problem. I'd get the chain checked out, but the clutch thing isn't major as far as I know :)
     
  3. Most bikes will spin the rear wheel on the centre stand in first gear with the clutch in because most bikes use wet clutches and you get clutch drag from the oil. Don't worry about it, it's normal.

    You can adjust your chain to remove the tension (assuming you haven't used up all of the adjustment).

    At the rear of the swing arm on the bike you will have two adjusters (unless you have a single sided swing arm).

    Either two linear adjusters (most common) or 2 eccentric cam adjusters (less common but easier and more accurate).

    Loosen the adjusters and move the rear axle rearwards until the chain slack is in the desired range, then re tighten.

    You should normally check the chain tension when the bike is not on the centrestand, as it will normally be looser on the stand than when in use.

    How do you do that? Well having 2 people helps :)

    For detailed instructions read your user manual or a Haynes or Clymer manual or get someone who knows what they are doing to show you.

    Much easier to show than tell...
     
  4. Thanks for the info guys, still havin trouble, i just wanna take it somewhere and get a new chain and the like but can find anywhere close to take it. The one place down the road that does servicing is booked over a month.

    Noticed you live in sydney Goose, i dont suppose you know anywhere close to moorebank for servicing do you?
     
  5. For the chain you could try aitkens motorcycle world, near the intersection of newbridge and heathcote roads. You might be able to get them to service it too, depending on whether you really want to do things buy the books cause I don't they are authorized Kawasaki.

    For the chain is doesn't matter, but for a service it might if your bikes still under warranty. I don't know what these guy are like either. I only know they exist because I've ridden past a few times.

    Or... your could call kawasaki australia and ask about service shops around the suburbs near moorebank :D

    Have fun with it anyway man
     
  6. I had fun with the Across chain for awhile, book shows where to check and how far it should deflect (25 mm max)

    I'd adjust it OK, but 120-150k's later it would be slack again, then started spewing rust coloured oil. It had been sitting outside the shop for a coupla of months and was shot.

    I dropped into a local Suzi dealer and he told me to forget the book measurments and adjust the chain so it just touches the lower rubbing block.
    Otherwise you just end up chasing the tension all over the place. (only relates to the across tho)

    New chain later, adjust once, keep oiled, 800k's later and all's still good!!

    JJ
     
  7. i went to adjust mine today but i came to a problem..i was trying to undo the axle bolt but i dont know if its a reverse thread or not so i stoped before i broke somthing (most likely me).i was working on the left side of the bike..so up or down to undo it? :-s
     
  8. up can be going both ways depending on what side of the nut you are on. normal thread clock wise to tightin left hand thread anticlock wise to tighten. however which is which on an axle i don't know..
     
  9. If axle nut is on the left side of the bike (it usually is) then clockwise will tighten it and ant-clockwise will loosen it.

    In any case, it will tighten in the opposite direction to the direction of the wheel travel when the bike is going forwards.
     
  10. up can be going both ways depending on what side of the nut you are on. normal thread clock wise to tightin left hand thread anticlock wise to tighten. however which is which on an axle i don't know.. have a look on the thread that you can see and work it out
     
  11. Chain Tension

    If the chain tension is inconsistent and coming out of adjustment soon after setting it may be that you have a worn sprocket. Check that the sprocket teeth are have an even shape on both sides and are not 'hooked' in appearance. With a worn sprocket it is possible to 'correctly' tension the chain with the links sitting in uneven positions on the sprocket, but as soon as the bike is ridden the adjustment goes all to hell.