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Correct petrol for my bike?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Kooka, Aug 24, 2006.

  1. Hi, all... 'first time poster long time reader'.

    I have been riding for only a few months on my 1996 250 Hornet and in that time I have been experimenting with different petrols i.e unleaded, premium etc. all from different service stations.
    I have heard reports that I should never put high octane petrol in my bike? Is this the same for octane booster additives also? Due to the potential damage to spark plugs etc?Is this true?
    Also I do understand that there are differences in quality of petrol from different petrol stations.
    Does anyone have recommendations and preferences for petrol and which service stations etc?
    Your thoughts are most welcome.
    Glad to be on-board (both my bike and the forum)


     
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  2. Your bike is a V-Twin I think, I also ride a bike with a V-Twin motor. I have spoken to a few people about this topic, most tell me that there is no benifit in a carby motor, only fuel injected motors is it a good idea to run high octane fuel. I run my bike on prenium 98 octane fuels due to the 12/1 compression ratio. I have stayed clear of Shell Optimax due to reports that the fuel has damaged engines. Members of the car club I am in have also experienced hot start problems and head related issues with optimax. I have recently started using Caltex Vortex 98, which gives good power delievery and fuel ecconomy, BP Ultimate is also good, however you loose a little ecconomy with it in comparason. High Octane fuels may fowel up the plugs, I recently changed the plugs in the car, and noticed that they had a red tinge to them, the electrode was also degraded. Anyway, hope that info helps, with fuel these days it is difficult to know what is fact and what is crap.
     
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  3. There is no disadvantage to running a higher octane fuel than the engine was designed for (no advantage either) except of course Shell Optimax which has a higher density and will cause the engine to run rich. Your bike's a grey import but should still run okay on standard unleaded, however given the quality of that can be "iffy" at times I'd recommend paying the extra and using 95 octane premium. Also try and steer clear of some of the discount servos and anywhere that might be using ethanol (which will damage your bike). Octane booster shouldn't be necessary, and some might not be that good for your engine depending on what chemicals they use. Personally I like BP Premium, but 95 octane from any of the "brand name" servos should be fine for your bike.
     
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  4. umm no I think the hornet is an inline 4, I too am still learning my baby's like and dislikes. So far I've found BP unleaded to be pretty good, and the servo at Kinglake to be the worst. Just topped up woth a tank of Caltex unleaded we'll see how she goes.

    Welcome btw.
     
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  5. BP Ultimate (the 98 RON one)
    Mobile one
    Caltex Vortex
     
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  6. [img:300:391:b7d33021ae]http://limewoody.wordpress.com/files/2006/03/aw_jeez_not_this_shit_again2.jpg[/img:b7d33021ae]

    Your bike is most definately an inline 4.

    Some people will tell you they get extra mileage and pwoer out of their 2fiddy on premium. I think it's bunk. The only difference is a higher octane rating, which prevents the fuel from detonating under high compression.

    Your bike is not a high compression machine. It'l run fine on standard and will even run shitty on super high octane stuff like Optimax.

    Some of the premium fules have cleaning agents in them, so you might want to run a tank of Vortex every now and then if you're feeling like splashing out, but the difference will probably be negligible.
     
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  7. If you get a 5% increase in power with 98ron, it's a 2fiddy, what's 5% of F3ck all? :p

    Just use std unleaded from BP or Caltex or Mobil.
     
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  8. You consider 11.5:1 to be low compression? :shock: Yes it will run on standard unleaded but I have read articles suggesting that at frequent high rpm there is a risk of knocking with 91 octane in grey imports, particularly at low altitudes (ie near sea level).
     
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  9. Any high compression motor will require high octane fuel, most high revving motorcycle engines require high octane fuel.
    Also if you subject your motorcycle to heavy loads ie. Pillion & luggage and inclined roads you should also use higher octane fuel.
    If you have modified your motorcycle for more horsepower then again use a higher octane fuel.
     
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  10. Thanks guys it is definately an inline 4.
     
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  11. FWIW, I stick to Mobile 8000, I've compared Optimax to '8000 in my rally car (13:1 compress, 1600, twin carbs) and it ran much cleaner. I found the same on my old Range Rover (carby again) and it ran well on the '8000 but was noticably rougher on the Optimax.

    That said I've spoken to others who have had the opposite experience with different engines.

    The main difference is in the detergent packs the different brands use in the fuel.

    The extra octane won't give you more power, but if the motor has a high compression and/or runs hot it'll prevent detination.

    It's probably overkill for my air cooled SRV but for the extra few cents I'll run the good stuff.
     
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  12. I use Mobile 8000 in my yamaha VXS250 V-star. I've heard from someone who has been riding for a while that Optimax is realy not good for bikes. And he races dirt bikes and they all run there bikes on Mobile 8000. Always try and fill up at the same petrol station all the time, so you know that if u get a bad batch of fuel or you get fuel related problems you can say you always buy it at X petrol station. Stay away from the cheap places coz i've had cheap fuel and u notice the diffrence. 5% extra power isn't much, but it's also in the head alot to.

    I treat my bike good, so why go cheap on what you feed it?
     
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  13. Agreed! FWIW, there's no benefit running a higher octane fuel than what the bike has been tuned to use. There are potential disadvantages, however. My GPX250 was tuned for regular unleaded, and I experienced the following using 98 octane fuel:
    1. Difficult to start/wouldn't start when cold.
    2. Stalling.
    3. Bogging down low in rev range.
    4. Petrol smell.
    5. Reduced fuel economy.
    6. Reduced amount of money in my wallet.
     
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  14. loz that picture is bloody gold.
    i use BP, the way you ride your bike will determine its economy, not really the petrol. my worst ecomony is 18km/L and best is 28km/L. i have heard of people having problems with caltex and shell. i wont touch anything else except for BP unless i cant avoid it. but i am curious to know whether you can use that wynns stuff, the fuel injector/carby cleaner and will it do anything? the thought of taking my carby apart really doesnt do anything for me...
     
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  15. Heard mixed reviews on fuel additives - being in the fuel makes me wonder just how they could possibly remove dried fuel on the intake of the carbs. Most of the premium fuels like BP Ultimate contain surfactants that are supposed to do the same thing anyway - probably best just running a tank of that through every now and then. If the airbox on your bike is easily removed then spraying a can of aerosol carby cleaner down the throats of the carbs is very effective, not quite as good as stripping the carbs down but a lot easier.
     
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  16. So when is Compression considered "High Compression" ? - I believe mine to be 11:1 and my manual says run High Octane because its a "race engine" (im just quoting here). So should I run 95 or 98? and do I need to retune becuase I'm sure previously it was run on standard 92.

    Thanks,

    Mo
     
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  17. Depends on the piston size, since it's the force of compression that causes pre-ignition more than the ratio (bigger piston = bigger force). High octane fuel is generally anything with a RON higher than 95 - since for most European countries 95 octane is "standard" unleaded. If the timing has been adjusted to run on 91 octane then adjusting it back to run solely on 95 or 98 octane will produce a slight increase in power.
     
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  18. So with bikes is 'pinking' as obvious to hear as it is in cars ?
     
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  19. Looking at the Material Data Sheets of all the major oil companies it seems Caltex is the only company NOT to have a cleaner in it's regular unleaded (91). The sheets also show that regular unleaded evaporates (gases up) at a lower temp. The carbies on the 2 fiddy tend to like it better for all round perfomance.
     
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  20. Quick point to those of you who have had issues with Optimax. Despite what Shell states on their website, they cannot guarantee that it will be 98RON, so if they can't guarantee it's RON levels, what else is wrong with it?
     
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