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Coolant for water cooled bikes :

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by limpanzacbizkit, Oct 15, 2006.

  1. Hey guys just a bit of a qiuick question....

    I am a proud ovwner of a 99 ER-5 with 48,000kms on the clock,
    almost due for the 50000kms service, was just wondering
    what sort of coolant you guys use in your engines.

    Is it ok to use car coolant that is suitable for alloy and aluminum engines
    in bikes or does it cause some nasty side effects in the oil or other problems down the line.

    Just that i currently use Castrol AntiFreeze/Inhibitor for my car and would like to simplify how many different consumables i have to have for both my bike and my car at the same time, cos i know mixing coolants is a big no no, and always like to supply the consumables i use when i submit my vehicles to a shop for maintainence so i know what is going in them.

    I also currently use motul 5100 15w50 and was using shell advance ultra teflon chain lube, but since not being able to find it have gone to motorex 622 chain lube ( after an extremely messy and nightmarish clean, will be doing tha more often now i can assure you!! ).

    Any help/comments would be greatly appreciated.

  2. I sold my 99 ER-5 a week ago.

    I was using Mutul 5000 engine oil and Motul chain lube and was extrememly happy with both. I don't know that there's any benefit in using Full syth oil in an ER-5 but it can't hurt so if you don't mind paying for it there's no reason to change. The recommended oil however is 10w40. If you find it lurches fordward when first put it in gear of a morning, thinner oil should help that.

    I used Tectaloy 100Plus coolant (50/50 pre-mixed bottle) which worked fine. I never had any over heating issues with it. Any 50/50 mix Ethylene Glycol mix should be ok, just as long as you're not mixing brands. :)

    Have you changed the coolant in this bike before before?
  3. jeez, Seany, you sure know how to kill a thread :LOL:
  4. Don't worry, it's a pain of a job on an ER-5. There's no bleeder screws so getting the air out is fun and you have to take the tank off to get to the filler cap which is shit cause squeezing the fuel tap between the frame and carby can be a 40min job in itself the 1st time you try it. If it's his first time at changing the coolant in this bike, he may well have more questions. :)

    Unless I just answered those too. :oops:
  5. I was just kidding, of course, but I can't think of anything else anyone could add, can you :grin:?
  6. Most car coolants should be ok but some contain abrasives for cleaning
    which wear out the parts. Also cheap coolants contain only a few percent
    glycol which leads to corrosion.

    I use shell advance coolant concentrate which costs about the same as
    most brands, or Motul which is a little more but not much. If using a
    concentrate, mix it 50/50 with distilled water (not tap water). Most
    service stations and auto shops have distilled water for about $3 per
    2lt bottle. Don't dilute worse than 30/70 (coolant/water) or more than
    70/30 or else you will accelerate corrosion.
  7. changed the coolant on my bike a cple of wks ago.

    i use the motul concentrate. 50/50 as per the manual.

    it was an interesting experience doing it on the 900 for the 1st time.

    i'm glad i did cuz i'm sure the mechanic would have charged a small fortune.
  8. No never have changed the coolant before .... i'll leave the major service thing for the mechanics and spend the big bickies and enjoy hopefully another 25 000kms of self maintainence before i get her done again, i'm just happy to change the oil and filter every 5000 kms, might invest in an er-5 manuel in the next few months
  9. Ah, well I was going to suggest that since you were taking the tank off you may as well change the spark plugs while you can reach them and I'm guessing the air filter might want changing too if the previous owner never replaced it (which is often the case). Neither of which are difficult jobs. :)
  10. Hey, on coolant and mix, I've just changed my coolant on the weekend and being my first time, realized that when I mixed the concentrate, I mixed it with tap water, not dilstilled.

    Should I change it again? Any big negative effects on this?
  11. Distilled water should always be used in cooling systems over tap water ...
    all the electrolytes and ions in tap water can cause electrolysis i.e
    corriosn in cooling systems and deposit scale all throghout the system, same with topping up car batteries as well....

    Tap water can be used in an energency for coolin from a-b , but i would replace it in a car and there for in a bike asap, if u used a good qual corroison inhib it should be alright for 6 mnths or so ... i'd drop it after the summer is over cos the anti corrosion properties won't as effective with the ions in the water.
  12. And remember that track bikes cannot run coolant of any form (plain water only) due to if it leaks onto the track the glycol doesn't evaporate and leaves a slippery trail on the track to catch out following riders/racers.
  13. Never knew that about track bikes at all ...... but then again have never raced at all .... but that would make perfect sense .... and they use DI water only for their cooling systems ?
  14. They engineered to req only DI water for cooling ?
  15. They're not engineered diferently. It's actually the water in any coolant mix that provides the cooling properties. Plain water undiluted is the most effective way to absorb heat and cool the engine. The eythylene glycol in coolant raises the boiling temp and lowers the freezing temp of the water, making it more effective under a range of conditions. It also acts as a corrision inhibitor.

    Track bikes tend to not need the anti-freeze/anti-boil properties as they aren't used in the snow and don't operate under conditions such as traffic where the engine runs without airflow. :)
  16. yep
    plus the fact that antifreeze (or any glycol product)
    is bloody slippery...and therefore downright dangerous on a race track

  17. just goes to show everyone can learn something new everyday ....
    i knew about the freezing /boiling point properties of glycol solutions ...
    just never knew about the racing hazards
  18. Okay.. so I gotta change it again... Kewl... Thanx for the tip.
  19. There is no need to change the coolant again. Think about it, unlike when using it in a battery you have corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze and Melbourne water is better than any other major city supply (only really let down by the 1ppm fluoride added).
    Besides it is going into an engine with traces of old coolant in it so how clean is it going to be then.

    Trust me, I'm an industrial chemist (yes really!)
  20. Phew! You've saved me some money there!
    No need to change it. Got it.