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Completely lost...

Discussion in 'Riding Gear and Bike Accessories/Parts' started by son of eevil, Aug 24, 2010.

  1. So I'm about to get my L's and I'm after riding gear but I'm completely lost on quality and brands. Obviously I want the best gear that I can afford and I've got about $1,000 to spend on gear.

    So I was wondering if someone can point me in the right direction?

    Thanks in advance,
  2. Knowing where you are would help in order to point you to the right shops
  3. I'm in Newcastle. But I want the opinion of the riders using the gear not the shop who wants my money, most salesmen will tell you anything to get a sale.
  4. All the shops I've been too have been pretty good. They'll ask what your budget is, they try and push you $100 or so over it. So just tell them less to start with. Get all last years gear, save a few bob there.
  5. in terms of fabrics, leather is hands down best protection, but at the cost of movement (eg for head checks) but you soon get used to what you can do.

    $1k might be a bit shy if you're buying everything. i bought my jacket (at half price) gloves and boots from america for 750, add to that helmet (can't import them) and pants ( i bought s/h but unused draggins) there's another $350.

    keep in mind buying local does give you after sales service/warranty etc which you won't get buying overseas, but local costs are often double OS costs
  6. I managed to get a fair bit of my son's gear from MCAS - some good specials.

    For your budget you could probably get a set of textiles which are probably more versatile - often waterproof with removable thermal lines to use all year around. With textiles tho I tend to think of them as "once off" items - come off once and they are probably going to need replacing (unlike leathers in general).

    Boots can usually be found for less than $200. Gloves for <$100 and a helmet - well that can go from <$100 to >$1000 so pick the one that is most comfortable for you and within your total budget.

    As far as brands..find what fits and is comfortable as well as in budget....for me thats RJays but for someone else it could be any of the other brands.
  7. I'd start here: http://www.bargainbikebits.com.au/

    $139 for boots
    $39 for gloves
    $179 for a helmet
    $199 for a winter jacket
    $179 for a pair of Kevlar jeans
    TOTAL: $735
  8. Can somne rattle off a few good brands?
  9. Don't buy RJAYS leathers. They will fall to pieces.

    Consider Ebay for 2nd hand / used "I bought the wrong leathers" auctions...I just picked up a dainese laguna leathers from a guy who wore them at 1 CSS session for $1100...they cost $1699 new from MCAS.

    Also consider if you want to get new boots, import them from Extreme Supply, because MCAS is a ****ing rip off for, well, everything. Even Shoei helmets direct from Shoei are cheaper from Shoei direct rather than MCAS, which inflates the RRP from the manufacturer.
  10. Hmm time to restate my budget. New budget $1500. I'll probably buy a new piece of gear every week I think I don't want to skimp on a helmet so a $150 is just not gonna fly with me.
  11. Also I have a question about boots. I have a $150 pair of Red Back leather steel cap work boots, need I waste money on rising boots? The amount of contact my feet will have in a crash seems neglidgable to me and I figure leather steel caps will be pretty safe too.
  12. If the steel caps are elastic sided, they'll easily slip off in a spill, so might not be so great
  13. Many will tell you that steel caps are a risk of cutting off your toes in an 'off'. I am lead to believe there is noreal evidence of that- it mayt be a myth or just a theoretical problem. But I'm just a noob so take that into account.

    The more pertinent issue with the red backs is that they may well come off in an 'off' and that is a real risk.

    I personally ride in Doc martens - not really sure why nearly everyone else insists on riding boots - they probably know something I don't.
  14. Coaltrain: Not sure what you meant about elastic sided? But outside is made of leather the sole is standard shoe rubber and the steelcap is moulded into the sole, does that help?

    Brmmm: Are you thinking that my boots are pull ons? They're lace-ups that come up past my ankles. I'm not concerned about the steel cap cutting my toes off any force that forcing that metal to slice off my toes would do far worse if I didn't have a steel cap boot.

    On a side not, after doing what I must say is a SHITLOAD of research on helmets and certification standards, it would appear that any impact that compromises the helmet to the point where it will no long do it's job the question is raised about what has happened to the rest of your body. Additionally after looking at statistics the types of crashes your most likely to have aren't the kinds tested by the AS/NZS1698 standard which is concerning to say the least but independant testing proved that (the particular helmets that were tested) went above and beyond the standard and were more then sufficient to protect you from any crash your likely to have.

    Needless to say I am very relieved (in an off way) to know that my head is protected as well in a $100 helmet as it is in $1200 helmet as any injury that pushes the helmet past it's limit (Inc the $100 helmet) will destroy the rest of my body. I suppose this lets me dictate more of my money to protecting the rest of me instead!

    (did any of that make ANY sense?!)
  15. leg/ankle/foot injuries are by far the most common type of injury incurred by riders.
    you need abrasion resistance, plus good ankle, shin and heel protection in a boot.

    modern medicine can repair or replace most of your body parts, with the exception of brain and spine, which can easilly suffer permanent damage... never get on a bike without a helmet and a back protector.
    personally i also always wear decent riding gloves, as i am the bread winner and a tradesman, my dependants literally rely on work i perform with my hands.

    most A* gear is rubbish... Icon is rubbish, but it looks cool

    brand name is not neccessarilly enough to go by as most brands have a product range starting cheap and increasing in price up to higher spec, better quality.
    with few exceptions, you get what you pay for, like anything else.
    but, the biggest names are not the best value for money.
  16. I have a Rivett 'Urban' fabric jacket, has CE body armor and a warm removable liner. They cost around oh... $240? Had it for a few years now and its top notch - will keep you warm in freezing conditions and dry too, even in a 4 hour storm. Also hardly feels like you're wearing it. I tried on about 8 different jackets and brands that day, and settled on the Rivett which I tried on first.

    My other jacket is a Joe Rocket 'UFO 2.0', an armoured mesh summer jacket. Love it in the warm weather, good to know you can be both protected AND cool! Retails for ~$220

    Pants I have are Hornee kevlar jeans. Not too bad, but Draggins are better for quality and fit. Budget $120~150. I'll be honest and say I don't wear them much.

    The helmet is an M2R, second best model. Fits my head well and I'd rate it as a good quality item. Your opinion as to what fits best may differ, obviously. Retail is about $300

    Gloves are a mismatch of cheap faux-leather ones (good feel), some Ixion leather ones (good protection) and Joe Rocket hybrids (best of both worlds).

    BTW, I reckon your budget is pretty decent.

    Cheers - boingk
  17. I've got Tiger Angel Cordura gear - as well as Draggin jeans light summer jacket and jeans.

    Both Tiger Angel and Draggin jeans will repair their gear fairly inexpensively.

    For helmets, once you get above the basics - it's comfort and fit that matters. A $300 helmet that's comfortable is better and safer than a $700 one that's uncomfortable.

    Probably the best independent advice on what to look for is in the the Good Gear Guide

    It was written by Liz De Rome who's probably the best around on protective clothing.
  18. As long as they're lace ups with a reasonably high leg (up past your ankle bone) they'll be fine. I've been wearing such boots for years (and crashed in 'em a few times too) and never had a problem. The tale of steelcaps amputating toes in a crash is bollocks IMHO. Every pair of steelies I've played with would have to be bent so far out of shape to get close, your foot would be mush anyway.

    On helmets, what you're after is fit. If you're on a budget, don't worry too much about anything else. A $250 lid that fits you properly will do you more good than a $1000 one that flops around like a pisspot on a pencil. The AS is a minimum standard. Many helmets will exceed it by a substantial margin, whereas others may be only just compliant. However price is no guarantee of greater protection. As a rule of thumb, newer designs will be better than older designs, all other things being equal. However, going for an older design or an unpopular colour scheme can get you a bargain. Going down this route, my current helmet cost me $150 for a lid with an RRP of $300+(IIRC). Fortunately, I can't see the outside of it when I'm riding :sick:. BikeBiz do some good, cheap runouts.

    Where more expensive helmets really score is in the peripheral stuff like ventilation, visor mechanisms, removeable (for washing) liners. They also tend to be lighter, although, these days, everything's featherweight compared to some of the flowerpots that were around when I started riding.

    Personally I like HJCs. I have an HJC shaped head and I also find they have a more quality feel than other budget lids. Their visor mechanisms are rubbish though. I wouldn't touch an RJays with a bargepole, based on the ones I've seen in the shops.

    As a learner, textile gear with armour will be fine. DriRider is too expensive for the quality but is good if you can get runout discounts. Elbow and shoulder armour are about the minimum advisable in a jacket. A back protector is nice, but not essential, given that noone apart from top level racers was wearing them not so very long ago.

    Trousers can be Draggins or other kevlar jeans. Kitbag in WA (Google should turn them up) do Red Wolf Sliders which look to be a better design than Draggins, based on my ownership of both. If you go Draggin, I'd recommend getting the hip armour. It really works and saved me from damage when a side seam in my Chinos wore through in a slide. Knee armour is less essential (because I'm not convinced it would stay in place in a crash) and is awkward and uncomfortable off the bike. Doesn't cost much though.

    Leather trousers, either jeans or sporting style, are the best, particularly for high speeds, but can come later if your initial budget doesn't cover it.

    Don't buy DriRider mesh gloves. They're junk IMHO.

    Hell, when I started riding, not so very many years ago, full gear meant German army surplus boots, heavy denim jeans, an unarmoured Brando jacket, bargain bin gloves and whatever helmet was on special. Most of us crashed occasionally and got away with it, so given the infinitely better gear that's around now, and your comparatively lavish budget, you'll be fine.