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Clutch stuck

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by dags99, Aug 17, 2016.

  1. Noticed that when I engage first gear on my bike, it lunges forward, even though the clutch cable is fully engaged.
    From what I can gather, this can happen when a bike is sitting idle for some time.
    Can anyone offer advice as to what I can do to resolve the issue?

    I am pretty sure I need it serviced as feedback so far is that the plates may have become stuck.

  2. To have a drive train give a little jump as first is engaged is not so unusual in a motorbike. A loose drive chain can exaggerate the effect by introducing "chain snatch" Some clutch adjustment is possible, but be careful to preserve the recommended lever free play. I've always accepted this little jerk as a fact of life with motorcycle multi plate clutches - there is bound to be some stiction when there might be 5 or 9 plates to separate when you pull the lever. The oil you use can make a difference.

    I once had an oil in the bike that made 1st gear selection when cold for the first time in the day very interesting. I got so that I would engage 1st gear and hold the clutch to start (kick start) for at least one attempt - that helped. After the first or two kicks the drag was not so noticeable, and I'd get from neutral to first with no dramas. The fix was in changing to another oil. I can't recall the brand. It was cheap and mineral based. One thing I learned ALL about from that episode was clutch adjustment. Fixing it was as simple as an oil change.
    • Like Like x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  3. With the engine stopped, put it in gear, hold in the clutch, and roll backwards. If you physically can't, put it back into neutral and warm the bike up, kill the engine and try it again.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  4. Cold be cable adjustment. Could be thick oil at this time of year. Could be normal.
  5. From what I understand a certain degree of 'clunk' is ok and occurs on every bike.
    Try this - from Neutral, before selecting first, roll the bike forward by about 1 feet, then engage first - this should reduce the clunk significantly; else, might need a clutch adjustment...
  6. The clutch plates do stick if the bike is unused for a while (maybe a month).
    As advised above, start it in neutral, warm it up a bit, then switch off, put it in gear and pull in the clutch, rock it back and forwards to unstick it.
  7. Dry clutchplates would be my guess, just use a little bit of brake when shifting to first.
    Changing to a quality oil may help, I wouldn't be adjusting the clutch to much if the clutch feels like its fully disengaging when you squeeze the lever in.
  8. One might get a bit more "stick" if one shuts a bike down hot after a right flogging and it sits a long time before it is used again. This was an issue now and again with one trail bike I had. I used the rock in gear with the technique as described above, to free it when I couldn't move it with the kickstarter.

    The rock it in gear is actually a better way of freeing it. I wouldn't try it with an electric starter. They've generally got enough work to do just starting the engine.

    if I remember right it used to help if I gave the engine a longer warm up than normal, during which I pulled and held the clutch for a few seconds for a half a dozen times or so - maybe it was just wishful thinking.
  9. thanks all for your great advice! I consider myself a newbie even though I am fully licenced and take all good advice in. Thanks a lot.!