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clutch cable

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by jack47, Jul 6, 2006.

  1. The first thing to go on my bike was my clutch cable :(. I'm hoping this is something I can fix myself, but I wouldnt have the first clue how!

    Do you just replace the inside wire part, or the outer casing too?

    And how much will a new one set me back?
  2. Usually you buy a set, as in both the inner steel cable and the sheath.
    If you give a Kwaka dealer a call they should have one out the back... or failing that give someone like MotaBitz a call and they'll have one or a near match for a replacement on the shelf.
  3. ok, I managed to get a clutch cable, but now i'm not sure how to fit it. I cant seem to get the 'front' fairing or fuel tank off to get full access to the old cable.
  4. take your seat off, at the back of the tank will be either one or two bolts holding the back end of the tank down (remove an put in safe location) look at the front of the tank (just behind the top yoke) for a couple more retaining bolts) if there are none (and i dont think there are from memory) then go to the next step

    lift and pull the tank back slightly so you can prop the tank up a bit and get to the hoses underneath.

    remove hoses (making sure you remember where everything goes back) if your bike has a fuel guage then there should be an elecrical plug under there as well

    when all hoses are removed, slide the tank back and tilt up from the rear of the tank, it will be located on two rubber grommets that protrude from the side of the spine of the frame (it can be quite tricky if the tank has never been off before as they dry out and become stiff)

    when the tank is off check the pathe of your existing clutch cable (starting from the lever and working your way back to the clutch cover)

    you need to put your new cable in the same path as the old one or it may not fit and/or get jammed on something.

    re-connect clutch cable (clutch cover end first) then at the lever

    before putting the tank back on give the rubber tank stays on the frame spine a light coating of bearing grease or some such as this makes tank off maintenance in the future a doddle

    re-connect hoses and check fuel flow.

    adjust clutch and bobs your uncle.

    happy riding
  5. I wouldn't have thought you'd need to remove the tank and fairings to do it on a GPX; but maybe i underestimate the coverage of those teency GPX fairings.

    Don't forget to lube the new clutch cable up before you install it! It'll decrease it's life span dramatically if you don't.
  6. should be able to take the tank off without removing the fairings,

    and you are right about lubing the new cable (forgot to add that)
  7. Sorry to drag this back out but my GPX seems to be not totally disengaging the gear when the clutch lever is pulled in because I can still feel the bike tugging forward. Is there a way to tell whether this just requires a minor cable adjustment or if it means there is a more serious problem?
  8. take a look at the adjuster on the lever, is it fully wound out? also there is further adjustment at the clutch activator (the other end).

    if both of these are maxed, its either-
    time for a new cable as its stretched
    time for an oil change (for wet clutch's)
    or time to overhaul the ol' clutch itself
  9. to remove tank on gpx you take of two bolts under the front of the seat and four fairing bolts two from each side the fairing does not need to be removed. also remeber to unplug fuel line.

    1+ for lubing cable before installation and in regular intervals down the track. you can just feed it in or buy a pressure cable luber, i use inox as it clean and does not evaporate but others may suggest better alternatives.

    good luck
  10. Thanks guys.

    I have wound the adjustor on the clutch lever in a little tighter. I think that's the right way and if not then I'll wind it the other way and see if that totally disengages the clutch properly. ( It's gotta be one way or the other! )
  11. unless it's right ass-tearing jolt don't fret too much. other kwaka owners will agree, (i hope), the have a little nudge forward tendency when ya put em in first.... oi and guys, where do i get chain lube from? that inox or whatever, and yeah what other brands are good stuff, (just incase i can't find)
  12. Well I wound it in and tried going through the gears at my lunchbreak and its better now than it was before. Certainly that jump forward is still there when going into gear but now its far less pronounced but to get to that point I've pretty much used up all of the adjustment available at the clutch lever. I might have a look at the other end of the clutch cable as suggested by Joel and see if there is any adjustment left there for me to play with as it might buy me some time with the remaining life on the cable.
  13. The gpx definately has an adjustment down down the bottom at the clutch itself. This will give a large amount of adjustment - and the adjustment at the clutch lever is really for fine tuning only - so wind the clutch lever adjustment all the way back to the slack - then take up most of the slack with the adjustment at the clutch - (still leave a little bit of slack as you don't want it to tight!) - then fine tune it with the clutch lever adjust ment until the freeplay in the lever is only around 1-2mm.

    Just as a side note - it is normal for the clutch to grab a little when its fully disengaged if the engine is cold.
  14. Okay so the coarse adjustment should be done from the other end, thanks.

    Yep I noticed that when it was cold but after having ridden for 15 minutes and I pull up to the lights, if I left the bike in first gear and held in the clucth, I could feel the bike tugging forward so I figured that was not normal.