Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Clutch Adjustment

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by JP, Sep 13, 2008.

  1. I'm trying to work out how to adjust the clutch, as it engages in the last 3rd of the lever travel (if that makes sense, basically what I'm saying is I get drive to the rear wheel when the lever is almost out all the way).
    So I looked in my service manual (see pic)


    Which way do I turn the adjuster nuts? I've tried adjusting the ones that are next to the lever, which only change the free play?
    Do the adjuster nuts above the clutch plate cover do the same thing?
  2. Free play is all you're dealing with, be it at one end of the cable or the other. Wind your lever adjustment right out so you've got heaps of free play, then tighten the other end until there is only a little bit of free play. That will give you the most adjustment at the lever as the cable stretches before you have to do it again. You should always have a couple mm of free play at the lever.

    If you've got your free play set right and you're still getting drive to the wheels with the clutch pulled almost all the way in, there's a chance you've got warped clutch plates.
  3. Could a loose chain effect the way the clutch feels? I went for a ride this afternoon and noticed the drivetrain was more snatchy than usual...
  4. If the clutch is dragging when the lever is pulled almost all the way in it has nothing to do with your chain. A snatchy feeling can come from driveline slack, but it is completely different.

    I'd suggest you sit down and have a think about how your bike works or look up howstuffworks and get a general idea, because it seems you currently have no idea. Makes life much easier.
  5. Hmm, Devotard I think either you have misunderstood me, or I have worded my original post wrong (probably the latter). What I was trying to say is as I am releasing the clutch, my bike starts to go forward just before the clutch travel finishes. There is no drive when the clutch is pulled all the way in.

    I think I probably should have said disengaged in my original post instead of engaged. Sorry for the confustion.
  6. What is the problem you are trying to correct, it sounds like its working fine. If you have small hands and have difficulty controlling the clutch when it engages so far out, you can slack off the adjustment a bit so it starts to engage closer to the bars. Don't overdo it or it won't free properly.
  7. Well I have the recommended 20mm on slack, but the problem is instead of the clutch engaging smoothly at half the lever travel like it used to (as I'm releasing it) its now engaging almost at the end and isn't as smooth.

    I originally thought this might be something that could be resolved by moving the adjuster nuts, however could these symptoms also be caused by a loose chain?

    No my hands are fine and I don't have trouble controlling my clutch :)
  8. i think you may find the chain is in its own world.. to move the friction point you adjust the slack.. as has been said. if you have done this i am not sure why you keep talking about the chain.. 20mm is a fair bit.. horses for courses i guess. maybe your cable / clutch has wear also...
  9. I dunno, I thought maybe a loose chain would affect feedback through the clutch :oops:
    I haven't found that ajusting the slack changes the friction point...but clearly I'm no mechanic :LOL:
    I'll take it to a mechanic tomorrow and get it sorted. Thanks for the replies.
  10. interesting theory though. you would have to have all of the chain slack at the top and even then the difference would be minimal. i have only been on a few vtrs and found the clutch to be the same as most other bikes..if it is approaching the rear of the lever travel maybe some mechanic may have to have a look. hope its nothing though.