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Clutch Adjustment.

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by droy333, Jul 23, 2007.

  1. Hi,

    Quick Question.

    Just wondering how I go about adjusting a clutch on a 1994 GSF250R Bandit? The clutch cable was recently replaced. The clutch now comes into action semi late (later than I'd like it) and is fully engaged much later (further in) than I would like it.

    The adjustments (like picture below) are screwed all the way out (both engine end and lever end).


    What does screwing the adjustments IN (closer to base) do? Just really confused of what the adjusters do, I don't see how it could change much if anything at all since the cable that runs through it is still the same length.

    Second part is the pushrod end of things. There has to be play in the cable action to the pushrod. How do I eliminate the "PLAY" in it. Pictures below show what I would be looking at.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Thanks In Advanced. Any Information would be great. Thanks for all the help so far also.

  2. Dude, fiddle with the lever end first, the big disc is just a locknut, release it and then twist the entire cable around to move it in or out. When you get it to where you like it, twist the locknut up against the lever to stop it moving itself and you're set.
  3. Is there a screw and nut where the cable enters the pushrod housing? or does the cable run straight into the transmission?

    Either way, to make the clutch "longer", I.E., you need to let the lever out further to engage the clutch, you _unscrew_ (partially) the cable from either end. this has the effect of making the cable _housing_"longer", hence causing less slack on the cable.

    To Shorten the clutch, (I.E., it engages sooner and has a lot of slack, you do the opposite.)

    For the pushrod, if it is anything like the 2000 GSF250 (similar, from what I read), the pushrod disengages the clutch by "pushing" the rod, hence to disengage the clutch sooner, it seems like you would just need to screw it _in_, to decrease the clearance between the clutch plates and the pushrod.

    HOWEVER, I would adjust the cable first though, 99% of adjustments can be solved using the cable alone, and it is easier to adjust the cable.
    And like Loz said, ensure all locknuts are secure, although they do not have to be super tight.

    If the screw/nut assembly in the top of the housing is not turning easily, tug the cable upwards, as the cable sheath is binding with the screw.

    As well, when adjusting bothe ends of the cable, try to make the adjustment 50/50 at both ends. Otherwise, you run the risk of damaging the housing threads if the cable end is only held in with a couple of turns.

    Good luck.
  4. Ok so both ends are like this picture.


    Plenty of room to screw it in. So if I screw it in on both ends my clutch should initially and also fully engage sooner correct?
  5. just work on the clutch lever adjustment first and see how you go?

    you may or may not need to adjust it further.
  6. yes, it will engage sooner, and also have more free play when it is not pulled in, I ride that way as my clutch requires a lot of reach, which is fine unless I'm doing a long ride. Don't overdo it though, as otherwise the clutch will not disengage fully when the handle is pulled in at the lights/starting/etc.
  7. so i had a go. Unscrewed it out at the lever. Move it up closer to engage quicker which should fix my problems as it moved the whole clutch if you know what i mean.

    Anyway thanks for the help once again.