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Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by mav, Nov 16, 2010.

  1. hi y'all

    '98 virago 250 with 45k+ on the clock

    yeap every time i put the bike into 1st gear (whether a hot or cold engine), i get this massive "Clunk", not only do the neighbours hear it but i can also feel it through the handlebars.

    wasn't doing this 3k kms ago when i picked it up from the dealer

    the other gears are a little rough when cold, but develop into the "snick" once the engine is warmed up...

    this all sound normal?

    haven't changed the oil yet as i can't find a stockist for my oil filter (do you buy it from the dealer?), so unfortunately this means i have had to top it up (once so far) with oil straight into the reservoir.

  2. An oil change will help a bit. Well, my gearbox always feels nicer afterwards anyway. It may be that the clutch is dragging a bit and needs adjustment (basically a five minute job on most bikes). Do you also find it difficult to select neutral at a standstill? That's another classic clutch drag symptom. A clonk can also be exaggerated oif the engine idle speed is a bit high.

    Some bikes just do clang a bit going into first. My DR has done it from new, regardless of clutch adjustment, idle speed or my own technique. Just ocasionally it'll go in smoothly and quietly but most of the time there's a rather embarrassing CLACK as the gear goes home. It hasn't got any worse in nearly 30,000 km so I've learned to live with it.

    However, the fact that your bike didn't used to do it and now does suggests that there is some other cause.
  3. What PatB said, plus make sure your chain is adjusted correctly (& not stuffed).

    Both can have a very big effect on the clunk.
  4. How does one check and adjust this? I do find that my friction point is right at the end of release of the clutch leaver...

    Yes selecting neutral at a standstill (from first) can be an issue, however i negate this by going up to 2nd then down to neutral.

    chain is adjusted correctly however i'll be giving it a good clean soon so that should also help?

    P.S. where to source oil filter from?
  5. You haven't felt a clunk till you ride a dry clutch single plate bike or a kwakasaki after a few thousand kms
    Change of oil will help but the clunk in first is normal unless it affects gearchanges.
  6. SuperCrap (yes, yes, I know) list them here.

    I'm not specifically familiar with the baby Virago so can't really advise. It may be listed in the owners handbook (which, for a bike that old, it's unlikely you have) and will certainly be listed in a workshop manual for the bike. Even if you don't work on your own bike, it's worth laying hands on a manual because it may be useful for anyone who does.
  7. thanks heaps Pat

    how did you research that one to be the one i'll need?

    call me a noob but i had 0 luck using google trying to find a "virago oil filter"
  8. Its almost certainly clutch drag.
    Have a play with the adjustment available at the leaver and I think there is one at the clutch as well.
    The friction point should be about half way through the lever travel. Adjustment will either be via a thumb wheel or screw and lock nut, Pretty easy to do. Fresh oil will help 10W 40 (without friction modifiers) most bike shops will have a filter to fit. (and oil)

    EDIT: http://www.knfilters.com/oil_filter/yamaha_xv250_virago.aspx
  9. I went to the Vesrah website, as I'm familiar with their products, and got the part number for the filter for the XV250, then plugged Vesrah SF-2003 into Google and SuperCheap were near the top of the list. I suspected they might be seeing as they've been stocking a few Vesrah bike products (filters and brake pads mostly) for a while now. It's quite handy if you own something fairly common as there aren't many other sources of bike service parts open on a Sunday. Not in WA anyway.
  10. cheers all for the useful info!

    special mention: Pat + 2wheels for where to find my oil filter

    once i've changed the oil and played with the clutch adjustment, i'll let youse know how things end up

    last word: any thoughts on Delo 400 for the new engine oil?
  11. To check the clutch cable, you need the following:

    1] Working eyes.
    2] Working hands.

    Got em? Sweet. First check is at the lever. Does it start pulling cable as soon as you start pulling it in? Ok, thats bad. You want about 10~20mm of 'free play' at the lever tip before you can feel the lever starting to take up clutch tension. Thankfully this is easy to adjust.

    Now, there may be a rubber cover over the end of the clutch lever, where it pivots. Pull this back if there is one. In either case, you will see the cable going into the lever housing, and where it goes in there is a dial on a screw. Undo this dial a few turns (making it go away from the housing and lever) and you can now adjust the clutch by turning the adjuster (threaded tube, holds the clutch cable in it at one end) outwards from the housing to take up slack or inwards toward the housing to increase slack at the lever end, giving more free-play. This will give you a more visual idea:


    If you can't get it right with the lever adjustment, wind it all the way in toward the housing (so it looks like the pic above) and lock with the dial by winding it up tight against the housing so it holds the adjustment tube in place. Now, you gott find the end of the clutch cable where it actuates the clutch on the engine case via a lever. It will look kinda like this:


    To give the lever more slack (after the previous step of setting the lever adjuster all the way back in) you need to move that threaded cable housing towards the lever that the cable is attached to (the lever near the shiny stuff in the photo above). First, undo any lock nuts preventing it moving. After that, turn the threaded housing half a turn to a full turn at a time and then check at the clutch lever. When you have 10 to 20mm of slack at the clutch lever (before you start to actually pull the clutch cable) then lock the locknuts and you're done.

    Hope that walk-through helped.

    Cheers - boingk
  12. Another bit of advice if I may. Be very careful not to over fill the crankcase when you do the oil change. Find out how much it holds and only put that much in.
  13. As a long time BMW rider (both K's and R's) I can confirm that a good solid clunk is quite normal...

    and has nothing to do with chains :)
  14. thanks boingk, your advice is always welcomed

    ...but i can't see any of the pics you posted...

    have to read your instructions and see how i go.

    and yes to this

    even when the whole bike shudders from said clunk?
  15. No, not when the whole bike shudders. Feedback through the gear lever is quite normal but shuddering normally means your clutch is overdue for adjustment.

    Try and refresh your browser window and see if the pics come up.

    Cheers - boingk
  16. no luck on the refresh browser...oh well!
  17. ROFL

    Notification Policy: URL Filtering
    This page is not allowed

    Damn IT restrictions...

    i had a go at it last night and i found the dial and the adjuster. made a very small change so as to not **** myself up the next morning, and found that the "clunk" has reduced to a "clack", and the bike from a "shudder" to a "shiver"...so maybe a couple more turn on the old dial there and it'll be a little smoother? :)

    again, thanks for all y'all help guys
  18. so yeah oil change done last night, glad i did so cos it was black as and there was a lot of sediment in the metal filter.

    cleaned the air filter while i was at it, (not that it needed it), however it looked like a dodgy job filter as it was too tall and conical to comfortably fit in the housing (as well as as butchered lower edge, like someone cutting up a sock and failing). pulled out the scissors and chopped it down to size, however, am now on the look out for a proper filter to fit.

    after about 1.5hours, new Delo 400 multigrade in + new Vesrah textile filter

    got to work ok, however she hates the cold and had to keep the choke 1/4 open for the length of the journey or else she sounded really sick and just wouldnt repond
  19. Its now running lean after the air filter mod