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"clock" sound = clip-link chain beginning to fail.

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by ibast, Jun 22, 2007.

  1. I've got a mystery sound on the bike. It started making a "clock" sound when I let out the clutch.

    A couple of days later I started getting a faint second "clock" as I mildly accelerated. Now I'm up to about 4 or 5 solid "clock" sounds.

    The pace of these is about the same rate as front tyre rotation. I doesn't sound slow enogh to be an entire rotation of the chain and I get the first one as soon as I let out the clutch. It doesn't get worse with speed.

    Steering head bearings? It's hard to check these without a centre stand, but I hadn't noticed any notchyness.

    Cam chain? I suppose I can check this by slacking off the manual tensioner a bit and seen if it gets worse.

    Any other thoughts?

  2. I had the same on mine. check the chain tension, the "clock" on mine was the sound of the chain slapping the swingarm. the tension wasnt that off, but it was enough to cause fouling. it sounded like it was coming from the front end.
  3. could be. I did a chain adjust not long back, but I may have over done it or I may not have done enough.

  4. Is the bike made in Switzerland, perchance?
  5. Very smooth Paul.... :LOL:
  6. Sorry, I think I misunderstood the details:

    (a) Is it cyclic? you say it doesnt get "worse" with acceleration. If it is cyclic, does it increase frequency (or disappear) with (i) engine rpm? or (ii) bike speed?

    if its not cyclic,
    (b) is it only when you accelerate/decelerate? ie when you load/unload your suspension [or clutch]?

    The reason I ask is because I am trying to self-diagnose some funny noises too, and these are the questions I try to ask myself.

    sorry mate, didnt read it all. (b) still applies, does it seem like it reacts with suspension changes?

    im pretty sure cam chain tensioners are more of a higher pitch "tick-tick-tick". steering head bearings - while stationary while pulling on the handlebars can you reproduce it?

    checked your front brake caliper bolts lately? discs?

    well, my tiny little puddle of knowledge and reasoning is spent.
  7. No but all suzuki's are precision pieces.

    BTW I had a look at my chain at lunch time and it is a bit looser than it should be. Maybe the wet weather in Sydney took it's toll.

    I will tighten it over the weekend and see if that helps. fingures crossed.
  8. It is cyclic and is related to road speed rather than engine speed. it gets better as speed increases.

    the chain slap does make sence.

    When I was only getting one noise I thought it may be fork sliders or the front guard flexing
  9. go up the top of a hill, power her up, turn it off... roll down the hill (maybe even with the helmet off to hear better) and see what you can do... Apply front brake lightly, then rear brake, shift your weight back and fore, to see if its bakes, suspension or chain. even weave side to side to see if that makes a differance when you put load stress on one side of the bike... Good luck.
  10. this sounds like an....


    the race of the smallest brain & largest testicles :cool:
  11. I tightened the chain over the weekend and I think it might be a bit better, but not fixed.

    So now I'm thinking gearbox bearings.

    I do live on top of a hill in a quiet street so I might give the roll thing a go. I doubt it will help, because it seems to be linked to the load of acceleration.
  12. I'd immediately be suspecting the hub bearings in your wheels, particularly if the noise happens when the engine's off and the bike's rolling.

    When these rust out, they start making a semi-regular crunching noise. Get the wheels off and do a "finger test" on the bearings - are they completely smooth, or is there some notchy or stiff feeling? They're cheap and simple to replace, but believe me if one of them lets go it'll rip your hub to bits. Apart from being expensive, if the hub gets destroyed it'll be while you're moving, and the wheel will simply stop, so don't f*ck around on this one. Don't ride it any more than you absolutely have to.

    A lot of hubs, particularly on Hondas (cant remember what you ride) have a tendency to collect water that sits in the hub and doesn't drain out. As a result you get accelerated rusting of the wheel bearings from the inside.
  13. What a drama.

    Roll down the street on the way to work on Monday to get a better listen. It’s definitely still there and it certainly sounds like the front wheel bearings. So I ride to work and find some via the phone (plug here to Sydney city Motorcycles. They stock “CBC†bearings with double seals, for less than the Suzuki items. At $10, that’s a fair “corkage†charge).

    So by the time I get back to Liverpool (45km each way in the pouring rain) to pick up the bearings Loz’s works have swelled to major paranoia. I’m sure the front end is making a racket and vibrating like crazy.

    So I pull the wheel off and get the bearings out. One had a very small hesitation in it and the other seems fine. Hhmmmm? Put the new ones in and not the brake pads are almost gone. Shit! Pull them out and get the best 4 out of 7 (I three spare), but even those 4 are on borrowed time.

    Get it all back together and roll the bike down the street, this time with no helmet. Shit! It’s coming from the back. Then I think, that right, I adjusted the chain 2 weeks ago. The sprocket must be out of alignment. Back in the gararge, I jack it up and rotate the wheel.

    “Hang on it’s coming form the front sprocketâ€. “Wait. I haven’t seen the joining link go pastâ€. Rotate, rotate. “there it is, but where is the spring clipâ€. The spring clip had come off and the cover plate on the link had floated about 2-3mm up. The result was it was hitting on the clutch slave cylinder “dust†cover.

    So this morning I went and bought a chain riveter as I had a rivet link spare. Ordered the brake pads.

    Now it’s great. The front end is quieter, so that wasn’t lost, and the âœclock†has gone.

    So thanks for the help guys.
  14. Interesting, good catch there, when a chain falls apart it can whip up some serious damage. Dude, I suggest you change the title of this thread to "Why you shoud rivet and not clip link your chains" or something.

    Edit: Actually, I might change that thread title, just to make it easier to find. Let me know if that's a problem.
  15. That's fine. though I must admit that the link had been slightly damaged previously when the slave cylinder cover came adrift. I had been keeping an eye on it and it was fine for a year or so.

    so despite this experience, I wouldn't say clips links are an absolute no-no, though riveting is preferred.
  16. I wonder how you'd go with teh chain clips, and then some solder to hold it all together? Should work.

    Regards, Andrew.
  17. out here in the bush without a rivetter i have always used clip-links. I lost one once on the transalp a while back and noticed it gone when lubing the chain after the daily dakar into town and back (dirt 'roads' here). the outerlink bit was still there and a good emergency fix is some old style household powerpoint-type fuse wire. It will get you to town. fencing tiewire is too thick (tried that :)
    (its snowed today)cheers
  18. Cheers, Bushmechanic advice is always worth its weight in gold.
  19. haha

    yea i just had my chain come apart the other day... thank god i was only doing about 50 km/h so no dmg was caused. Then i discovered not only does my chain have clip links it has 2 of them... :shock: i must fix that.