Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Cleaning and changing break pads

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by PEEair, May 9, 2012.

  1. So the front pads on my Ninja 250R needing a change soon and I just have a few questions:

    I'm planning on replacing the pads with EBC HH sintered brake pads, are these good enough for a beginner?

    How should I go about cleaning the brake caliper? Do I just use a brake cleaner and spray the inside then scrub it? Would any brake cleaner do as I've been told they can damage the seal?

    Does the piston need to be oil? If so how do you do it and use what oil?

    Just noticed I spelt break instead of brake in the title
  2. I haven't tried the EBC HH pads in a 250 Ninja, but they work very nicely in a 1400 Ninja... Even at track days.

    I don't imagine Brake-Clean would hurt the seals but I don't really know. Some degreaser and a toothbrush maybe? Don't use oil or anything like it anywhere near your disks.

    Do lever the pistons back into their holes before you remove the old pads. It's usually easier and quicker to do that way, but more importantly, the chances of rocking a piston and getting it crooked in the bore are much less if you use the old pad to push them in. With most callipers, you can get a small screwdriver between the disk and the pad and just gently and carefully lever the pad away from the disk - before you unbolt the calliper. Have a look at the thickness of the friction material on your new pads, and then look at how close the metal backing plate is to the disk on the old ones. That shows you about how far the pistons need to come back.

    If you're not sure, a mobile phone with a camera is a great way to record what came off where, and in what order, and what it looked like before you stripped it.

    When you get it all back together, make sure you pump the brake up so the pads are up against the disk and you have lever. Also remember that the new pads won't bite properly until they've bedded in a bit.
  3. If you remove the caliper with the old pads still in place you can lever the pistons back with a screwdriver and only risk damaging the old pads which you are throwing away.

    I would't be levering against the disk, they're expensive to replace. (I've bought heaps of 'em)

    Also be aware that you will be sending brake fluid up the lines into the reservoir and it could overflow, wrap a rag around it and loosen the cap. Clean up spilt brake fluid thoroughly and quickly.

    Simple 10min job, a quick squirt of brake cleaner will be all that is needed.
  4. Brake
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Give him a brake, he just wants his break pads to break. :)
  6. I'd recommend doing this, otherwise you may find that pad very hard to push back in against the sealed system. If you're unaware, brake fluid damages paint. If you get some on the bike wash it off with lots of water. DO NOT WIPE IT. Otherwise you'll see the paint go with it

    Brake cleaner won't harm the piston seals, feel free to spray away. I normally remove the caliper, remove the pad/s and pump the brake to expose the piston/s, clean them off and then push them back in. Keeps the piston moving freely and doesn't damage the seal
  7. You do what?! As a qualified mechanic, I really cannot support your suggestion to remove the caliber, pads, then pump the brake to expose the pistons. It is all too easy to pop a piston out and that'll cause a whole range of issues.
  8. How else can I clean the piston then?
  9. You don't need to. Not sure why you think you would need to do it.

    To clean a caliper properly, you remove it from the system, strip it, clean it, and rebuild it. No shortcuts. Ever. Not with brakes.
  10. brake.

    :-$ no more warnings
  11. Mate, unless the caliper is goddamn scungy :( ... you should be right to simply spray the caliper down with brake cleaner, get a small paintbrush/toothbrush if you want and wriggle it around to remove and dust buildup and maybe rinse it off... insert new shoes, and as said, squeeze the lever to boost the new brakes into alignment.
    Never... put any oil around anywhere near your pistons.... oil can degrade your seals, your pistons are lubricated internally by the brake fluid.

    Oh, BTW.......... check your fluid level in your reservoir after....just in case the level has dropped with the changeover.
  12. I went through a few sets of the EBC HH pads on my 250R, great pads, if you want a step up again get braided front brake lines.