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Choosing a battery...

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by mattb, Sep 7, 2009.

  1. G'day All.

    I no nuffin about batteries and how to choose them. I went into K-Mart the other night and there were some batteries on the shelf, and I took a photo in the hope somebody could advise me. Below the pic is an info card I pulled out from one of the boxes. There was another gell battery there, which had 12V7AH on it, which matches what the stock SR battery had, but it was physically too big to fit the battery box. I'm guessing that the right (as opposed to the left) one would be better as it does 6 rather than 3 amps, but is 6 still ok?

    Question two: generally (and in case these are no good) what do I need to know in order to walk into a store and purchase a universal battery to fit the SR?

    I've been running the bike without a battery for at least a year, just getting by on a $10 capacitor from Jaycar, which - usually in the form of something termed 'Battery Lesser' and sold for $90 - is all the rage in SR modifcation, however...it causes some bad flickering of the headlight when the capacitor starts to go poo, which it can do quickly; this makes vision harder at night, esp at the peripheral where Mr Roo is waiting, is unnerving when you're all alone in the great dark world, and from their behaviour to me seems to have been taken by some others as aggressive purposelful flashing.



    Matt

    8x1p4g.
    20rl9tw.
     
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  2. Have you been able to run a battery previously without cooking the battery? If so, then take a measurement of the battery box. Go down to battery world. Find largest fully sealed battery that will fit. Replace every four-eight years. It's that simple. There's only so many ways you can make a battery, much like there's only so many ways you can build a bike/car.

    Whether you go for lead acid unsealed, sealed or exotic materials, It'll still require replacement. Also, overall CCAs or maximum amps aren't important if you've got a strong charging system and are only running running equipment, and you've only got kickstart.
     
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  3. When it comes to bike batteries, sometimes size matters.

    Last time I replaced my battery I trotted down to battery world and the model they had listed for my bike was no longer made. But they said no worries as there was an exact equivalent.

    In fact it took three "exact equivalents" later before I got a battery I could use.

    The difference was the overall size. Although supposedly equivelant there was just a gnat's whisker of difference in the overall size and it was just enough that it wouldn't fit between the frame. Very frustrating at the time as the bike ended up off the road for a week while they kept ordering in different batteries. We'd even measured after the first fail and assumed that the millimetre or so difference wouldn't be an issue, but some of the bike frame struts were just sufficiently in the way to make fit impossible.

    So if you are buying a non-standard battery I suggest you measure up the old before you buy and even then make sure you are able to take it back if it doesn't suit.
     
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  4. Buy a good brand battery... Yuasa is the best... also a tricle charger if your charging system is not up to it...

    A cheep battery can cost you money in the end...
     
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