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Changing to braided lines

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by mr_messy, Jan 21, 2010.

  1. I've been reading the numerous threads here about bleeding brakes etc in preparation to replacing my brake lines with the braided set that I have just bought.

    I plan on doing it myself, however I thought I'd ask,
    What are some of the things I should be aware of?
    What are the common mistakes that are made?

    I'm not a qualified mechanic or anything but I like to tinker about with things so thought I'd give it a go.

    If it helps I ride a K7 gsxr750


     
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  2. search for how to bleed brakes on the interweb. just make sure you bleed and then some more. be patient
    and dont get that stuff on your paint..
     
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  3. Before you tighten anything, make sure the lines are routed properly and sitting comfortably without being kinked or strained. Then bolt up using new crush washers at all the banjo connections. Whenever I've bought braided lines, these have come with them as standard.
     
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  4. When you buy Hel brand you get detailed instructions with them...

    1] you don't need or want to bleed the brake system BEFORE changing the lines.
    2] as others have said make sure that the new lines are routed correctly before nipping up the bolts / crush washers.
    3] be very careful not to spill brake fluid either on painted surfaces or the brake pads /discs.
    4] cleanliness is good, very good. Have a can of brakeclean handy for prep work and accidents.

    If I can make the scanner work I'll post the hel instruction sheet for you.
     
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  5. Just imo I would change fluid while your at it. I doubt you will feel the braided lines stop you any faster on the road but the feel of the brakes is improved greatly.
    Using a better fluid than the OEM one also helps. And usually has a higher boiling point. If it boils it breaks down. I use Penrite SIN it has a 600c + boiling point. It makes a huge difference on track days.
     
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  6. Great! More non-skilled knuckle-draggers playing with something totally harmless like brakes.
    Brilliant!
    Make sure when you road test it's at a remote location with no corners OK?
     
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  7. Wow, what's up your bum this morning. We dont have power boosters on bikes!!!! he will be able to feel strait away whether there is air in the lines by pulling on the front brake lever.
    If your testing brakes you dont want to be going fast down a road anyway.
     
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  8. Funnily enough these non-skilled knuckle draggers in time become the guys who have a wealth of experience and knowledge to share on such forums as Netrider.
     
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  9. Yep exactly.
    You can get into a lot of trouble just changing a front brake lever. I know of a mechanic who did not fit an MRC front brake lever to a bike properly. He didn't check that it was fully open at rest. It needed grinding on the plunger push and the poor sod got about 50k down the road and his front locked up.
    I thought thats what these forums were all about. Helping your fellow riders. Not bagging them. each to their own I guess.
    Forty years of riding, twenty in the trade.
    I'll just shut up now and worry about me and my close freinds.
     
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  10. Nothing really.

    It's just that after 30 years STANDING at the COALFACE of my beloved profession I take umbrage at being referred to as a "grease monkey".

    Sorry if you think derogatory terms which vilify a persons chosen career are socially acceptable.
     
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  11. My apologies about the grease monkey comment.
    I can understand why you'd be offended.


    Having said that, I will test the brakes where there are no corners. Thanks for that tip.
    And others for the tips.
     
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  12. Would it be right to assume that original rubber lines become futile when the lever is spongey AFTER checking:
    New fluid, no air in the lines at all, plenty of disc and plenty of pads.. yet I can pull the lever into the handlebars and above 80km/h, braking power kinda sucks.

    If someone actually made a set of braided lines for my bike I'd probably get them, but its too much effort to cut to size and make my own..
     
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  13. If your bike's over about 5 years old, rubber lines will be suspect, although they can last quite a bit more than that.

    Once upon a time, most braided line suppliers would make up custom sets given measurements and fitting types. Still tended to work out about 1/3 to 1/2 of what the Japanese manufacturers wanted for another crappy rubber set. Well worth the cash.
     
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  14. I've always thought of 'grease monkey' as an affectionate term, and certainly one that infers a level of respect for the expertise involved.

    Guess some people don't have a thick enough skin for light-hearted irony. But hey, what do I know, I'm just a roadie.
     
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  15. Firstly I would be looking at your master cylinder. Might need an overhaul kit.
    braided lines can be made up easy. I see your at Warrick. if you dont want to travel to Bris to HEL. HEL make custom lines and I am not being sarcastic. I would just go down to Morgan park. Surely someone in the pits down there could make you a set. Or point you in the right direction.
     
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  16. Thanks for the tip.. I'm actually in the sunshine coast atm (I do lots of highway travelling).. so going to Brisbane wouldn't be an issue, just the cash to buy anything might be.

    I'll have a look but depending on price I may have to put up with the effort of making my own from a generic ebay kit or something. At tafe (Diploma Motorsport) we have all the required tools and I could probably use it towards my final marks as workplace experience or something.


    1984.. original rubber lines :angel:

    And yeah the master cylinder may be a little worn but from what I've seen it appears to be functioning near perfectly.


    Apologies for the semi-hijack :) Do carry on
    -
    Chris
     
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  17. Well that makes it easier. I live on the sunny coast as well. I have a guy in Cooroy who makes them up for me. He does a great job. Not as cheap as a after market mass produced ones but the fit and finnish is top shelf.
    If your master is still original it's shagged. Thats where I would be putting my cash.
    Brakes on an 84 anything are nothing like todays stoppers.
    As for a good workshop on the coast.mmm I have worked for them all. Prefer not too answer that. Gavin @ sunstate spares if he is still there knows his shoite and is a great guy. Otherwise I would go to Bill at redline to have it checked out.
     
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  18. Pyramid Parts on eBay sell just braided brake lines and bearings, I always buy from them and have been well happy with the products. The brake lines have always made a big difference. They sell them in a lot of different lengths, for around $30 no matter what length.

    At the moment I'm cruiser-ising my Hornet, and that includes cruisy higher bars, and so a brake line extension. I'm just using the hose joining part from my 78 SR along with its bit of rubber hose. Will probably be rather wooden, but that's cheapness for you! :) Mind you, it'll be temporary - on the SR they've given me the experience before which only drum brake motorcyclists know and fear.
     
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  19. No you're just an organ-donor.

    Or do you prefer temporary Australian?

    Or Bikie?

    Or white (collar) trash?

    How warm and fuzzy do you feel now you patronizing bastard?
     
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  20. I don't find any of those particularly insulting.

    A skin as thin as yours was not made for the internet.
     
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