Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Changing rotors

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by port80, Oct 14, 2013.

  1. I'm looking to change my front rotors (k5 gsxr1000). I have the correct torque values for all the various fasteners I need to remove. My question is, do I need to know about any tricks? Or is it simply, take old rotor off, put new rotor on, apply thread lock (red?) to the rotor bolts and torque up the rotor bolts.

  2. If they're well worn I'm guessing your calipers might also need to be re-set but I'm not sure, that's why I leave all work on brakes to an expert.
  3. What you said is spot on. Just make sure that both the rotor and hub surfaces are clean. You can use a wax and grease remover or better yet some CRC Brake clean on the rotor and hub and the pad contact surface. Sometimes a manufacturer will use an anti rust solution on them.
    Do not use any lube like CRC or WD40 any where near brake components as this will cause brake rubber to swell.
    Oh yeah nearly forgot make sure you pump the caliper pistons back out before you test your handy work. Handy hint no. 74 when you pump the pistons out don't use the full stroke of the brake lever, doing this may cause damage to the seals in the master cylinder.
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Cheers wot the. Looks to be fairly straight forward. Obviously doing the pads at the same time.
  5. Yep made that mistake.... Lucky I'd just got out of the driveway and still had the rears :embarrassed:
  6. Okay so new rotors are on and tested. I'm back to one finger stoppies without vibration, so that good. I've noticed that the pads are dragging on the discs a bit more than I'd like. The front wheel spins freely when off the ground, but you can clearly hear the pads on the disc. I think I'll clean up the calipers and see how that goes.
  7. The pads will be basically in constant contact with the rotor, and when spinning freely (eg on a stand) will will hear the noise of them rubbing. As long as the wheel spins freely and there is no "brake drag" then it is operating properly.
  8. Cheers for the reply Tas Man, certainly the pads are normally in constant contact. However it feels like they are dragging a little more than usual... perhaps it's just part of them bedding in?
  9. Sounds weird if they are dragging. When you pushed the pistons back into the calipers, did you take the top off the master cylinder reservoir first and remove some fluid?
  10. I did not. I might just do a full bleed as it's probably due anyway.
  11. Grab yourself a big syringe, and one of the cheapo one-man bleeder kits from supercrap. They do the job just fine. Remove the top off the master cylinder and suck out all the old brake fluid. Refill with new stuff, then start bleeding.

    The reason I asked about removing fluid from the reservoir is, because if it was full and you pushed the pistons back, you have potentially over-filled or even slightly pressurised the master cylinder reservoir. Not high pressure, just enough to put a little "preload" in the system (for want of a better term - coz i'd already used the word "pressure" 57 times). Some master cylinder reservoir designs (the seal on top of the cap actually) will allow negative pressure to suck air in, but won't allow positive pressure in the reservoir to force fluid out. So you end up with pressurised reservoir.

    Hope the info is useful - I know what I mean, even if the concept isn't neatly transposing into words!
    • Informative Informative x 1
  12. Yep, pretty clear to me ;) Thanks for the info.