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Chain tight spots

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Micheal A, May 22, 2005.

  1. Hey there - I just adjusted my chain and have discovered when I spin the wheel, the chain alternates between being overtight and too loose.

    Any suggestions or possible causes for this?
  2. it is worn out...
    bet its not a very smooth ride either.

    go get yourself a new chain and new sprockets, cost about $300 and it will be just like new
  3. Your chain needs replacement. In the meantime, make sure the tight spot isn't too tight. Adjust the chain so that it is loose rather than having a very
    tight spot. A chain which is too tight may cause damage or premature wear or damage to the gearbox.
  4. Thanks fellas..
  5. a good read from

    Technical Information
    Chains do not stretch! People talk about chain ‘stretch’ as if the chain were a piece of elastic! This, of course, is not the case!

    Chain links come in pairs, an ‘inner’ link (with a hole at each end), and an ‘outer’ link (with a pin at each end which fits through the holes in the inner link). Now, as the pair of links turns around the sprocket the pin in the outer link rotates in the hole in the inner. This is where the final wear occurs. Right on the internal moving parts. It's called 'final wear' because it's what finishes off your chain

    If you ‘split a link’ on a worn out chain you can see this final wear as a step on one side of the pin where it has worn against the side of the hole in the inner link. Add the steps together (one for every pin in the chain)… That’s why your chain has gotten longer. It hasn't ‘stretched' it has worn!. You may also notice that the other side of the pin is dry and rusty. You may even wonder why that is...

    Well, modern ‘O’ ring chains are assembled in an oil bath at the factory with an ‘O’ ring sandwiched between the two side plates at each end of the pin. This seals a small amount of oil inside with the pin. However, on their outside, the rubber ‘O’ rings run in free air just like your tyres do. So, if it gets dry outside, that little drop of oil for the pin is all thats left to keep the rubber sliding on the metal as well

    Now, it's funny how we expect our tyres to grip and our 'O' rings to slip when they are in such similar predicaments. Y'see, when the link turns around the sprocket the 'O' ring finds itself between two steel plates which are twisting in opposite directions. The plates turn while the dry rubber will try to hold them still. The irresistible force meets the immovable object. It's known as friction and at best it can waste a few B.H.P. At worst your 'O' rings will get worn away between the plates (like your tyres do on the road). No wonder most race teams use plain (non 'O' ring) chain.

    For us road going mortals who need more mileage the answer is simply to put a little lubrication between the plates and the 'O' rings.

    Just to demonstrate you can try this scientific experiment. (You will need a steel floor, stopwatch and a new back tyre)! Sit astride your bike and start the engine, shift into first gear. Hold the front brake, rev hard and release the clutch causing the rear wheel to spin on the steel floor. Now, with the stopwatch time how long it takes your back tyre to explode!

    Next, with a new rear tyre fitted try the same again only this time apply a little oil to the tyre. See how much longer it takes even before it starts to smoke!!!

    Surprisingly, even when it does start smoking, you will find that another squirt of oil will cool it down again by reducing the friction. In fact if you kept feeding it a little oil every once in a while you could keep that tyre spinning all day and it STILL wouldn't smoke.

    No really folks, a modern 'O' or 'X' ring chain in the very worst conditions and with no maintenance at all can last up to ten thousand miles or even more. That’s why some manufacturers will give you a ten thousand-mile guarantee.

    But, if the outside of the chain stays dry, eventually the internal oil will get used up trying to ease the friction at the dry portion of the rubber. Once the oil is gone the wear will quickly set in. The ‘O’ rings will become visibly thinner and the chain will start to 'stretch' like chewing gum and, a few hundred miles later, you'll have to replace it… Now split that link and have a look!

    Dry rubber can only be scrubbed against dry metal for a finite time before it gets worn away.

    Spray lube helps but it's not very good at getting between the ‘O’ rings and the side plates once the propellant has dried. That’s why spray lubed chains seldom last more than 20,000 miles. Don't believe me? Try some spray lube on that back wheel burn out with the stopwatch. Bet it dosen't last as long as oil before it starts to smoke

    The best way to prevent chain wear is to apply a little oil to the ’O’ rings frequently . This case was proven conclusively by the original Loobman chainoiler. The unit used a single sided delivery system (S.S.D.) with oil being fed to only one side of the sprocket. Centrifugal force carried the oil out to the chain as the bike was ridden. In the test the ‘O’ ring chain achieved 27,000 miles from new before wearing out. The chain finally lost it’s internal oil and wore out simply because the ‘O’ rings wore out on the unfed side.

    So we started working on ways of getting oil to the unfed ‘O’ rings. Different grades of oil made little difference. We had some success increasing the oil flow with larger 'doses' but the ‘splash-over’ did not always reach the other side and the high oil consumption made this method messy.

    After much scratching of heads and several cups of tea we finally came up with the Loobman D.S.D. The D.S.D. system feeds oil to the two sides of the sprocket from where it is centrifuged onto all the ‘O’ rings on both sides of the chain.

    Unfortunately, to date we have not been able to wear out a chain on a complete mileage test although a new chain on a 600 Yamaha using a D.S.D. system reached 40,000 miles before the bike was involved in an accident. However the chain was still in very good condition and showing no sign of wear.

    Feedback suggests that users find the Loobman system simple, quick, time-saving and in-expensive to buy and to use. Couriers and high mileage professional riders also comment on the very real benefit of greatly increased mileage from their chains.
  6. Got 40 000 k out of my last chain, using only spray lube. Told that was about normal by the dealer.
  7. Michael, I got a tight spot on my current chain after only 1200k.

    If your chain is worn, you can tell by the hooked teeth on the sprockets.
  8. Maybe the hooked teeth on the sprocket caused the chain to wear :wink:

    Replace your sprockets when you replace you chain
  9. Yep.

    The stretch and the hooks go together and have to go together.
  10. On my Blackbirds the original chains lasted 24000km. The original on my ZX12R is 30000km old and still appears to have quite a lot of life left in it. I've only adjusted it a few times, maybe every 5000km, and I do try to keep it lubed, but I'm not anal about it. If I go away for a long weekend it may go several thousand km without any attention.
  11. does anyone know where to get a loobman chain oiler in Australia? they are available on the net, but its easier to buy it locally.
  12. There is an Australian equivalent, but I forget it's name
  13. There's always the scottoiler...
  14. Getting mine replaced tomorrow after 36,500ks. Same prob, tight spots and loose. Could hear me coming a mile off on Sunday's toy run.
  15. I got my chain replaced at 44,106km. It had had a tight spot in it for about the last the 5,000km and was completely shagged come replacement time. Genuine Kawasaki front sprocket cost $68.40, rear $117.40, a 525 GWX X/Ring chain $255 and labour $55.00. $495.80 all up.