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Chain tension

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by geeth, Jan 19, 2009.

  1. My chain currently has 40 mm of slack which is to much as far as I know, so I need to adjust the tension.

    What I am wondering is if the back wheel has to be off the ground or if this can be done with the back wheel on the ground? As I don't have a centre stand.

    Also I don't have a torque wrench or know the amount that is meant to be applied as I don't have an owners manual and can't find one online, will this be an issue?
    Yes, I konw there have been previous threads on this, and I have looked at them but haven't been able to find an answer to my question.
  2. Yep, used to do it all the time.

    Torque wrench is certainly preferable since you may not be able to get enough torque with the short handle that comes with most socket sets. A longer handle (or slipping a length of steel bar over a shorter one) will help, but only if you've already got reasonable experience in guessing how much torque "feels" right. A cheap torque wrench is definitely a worthwhile investment otherwise.
  3. Thanks Jd, will ponder on it a little bit.

    Any idea on what to do when I don't know the torque setting? the only manual I have found for the bike is a jap owners manual. No workshop ones.

    I know the setting for a xjr 1300 is 150 nm but I guess thats pretty usless.
  4. Yeah, I'd say a 400 would probably be a lot less than that. I know the torque setting for my 750 is only 85-115nm, and I think my 250 was even lower than that.

    Without the correct setting all you can really do is tighten it as far as you comfortably can without risking damage - then check it from time to time to make sure it's not coming loose. Actually surprised the owners manual doesn't give it - I've seen other owners manuals that do since adjusting the chain is a fairly routinue thing.
  5. The only owners manual that I can find is in japanese. I will try to look by pictures tonight.
  6. Even in Japanese if there's a torque setting listed it should be easy to spot - numbers and units of measurement are almost always Westernised.
  7. You could probably do the wheel nut by 'feel'. You don't really need a torque wrench but you do need a proper socket wrench. Not one of those adjustable ones as they may round off the nut (Guilty!).

    You'll probably need a rear 'race stand' or centre stand. It makes it a heck of a lot easier.
  8. hmmm I will have to look into this a little more and try to get the setting from the manual.

    Is 40mm slack exccessive? I have tried this with different sections of the chain.
  9. 40mm certainly sounds excessive.
    How easily/far can you pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the point where it's furtherest from the engine?
  10. barley at all.
    I doubt it would even be 1mm
  11. That's a good sign - it's certainly not as loose as I've seen some people let their chains get then.
  12. Yeah, when I realised how loose it was I checked at the back and thought it might be within the bike acceptable range, which I haven't been able to find out just yet.
  13. I have checked the owners manual, there is no torque table or anything mentioning it for the axle.
    However the slack for the chain on the bike is 30-40 mm