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Chain tension / Sticky throttle

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by 265chemic, Feb 21, 2007.

  1. Well I just spent a few hours on the bike, firstly pulling all the fairings off bar the front one to try and get the throttle cables out... manual says loosen clips (via screws) holding carbs onto engine... Cant get to one and they seem pretty well on there so I just lubed the cables with the engine end in place. Improved the situation a lot but the main culprit was that the threaded adjuster at the top end of the pull-open cable is snapped where the threaded section ends.. it seems quite safe but ill prob replace it same so i have no chance of getting unwanted pepper halfway through a corner ;)

    Now, a question for you all in the know...

    My chain had almost 40mm slack (measured from one point on the chain halfway between the sprockets, adding up motion and down motion together, pushing firmly, while on the centre stand) and ive tigtened it up to about 22mm (spec says between 15 - 25 in the manual and 20mm on the actual sticker on the swingarm).. Im just worried that it feels a little too tight (especially compared to ~40mm - as it would!) but I havent seen a properly adjusted chain to compare it to. Does this sound right??

    FYI for anyone interested rear axle nut torque is 69 foot pound.

  2. #3 265chemic, Feb 22, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
    Like they say, a youtubes worth a thousand words..


    Mine might be a little too tight as the 22mm freeplay is pushing it hard up and hard down, the chain "springs" a bit when I let it go.
  3. Alright. Now i've nailed it.

    The problem with this seems to stem from interpretation of the word 'freeplay'..

    Seems to me the freeplay should be the distance the chain sits normally (gravity pulling it down) to the upper end of its travel (but not pushing the chain as such, just lifting it up till you feel more resistance than gravity and normal friction would give). Ive adjusted this method to give 20mm of 'freeplay' as suggested on the decal, all seems mechanically correct and its sitting right with me.

    While talking to yourself isnt the most fun thing in the world :wink: , I hope other people can be helped by this thread. :)

    EDIT - The workshop manual does show measuring both up and down, but if you push you can get a bigger distance. 20mm of 'pushing' distance in my opinion is not enough.

  4. The manufacturers specs are worth sticking when adjusting your play, to keep maximum power and minimise chain wear. What sort of bike is it? The more movement available in the rear suspension, the more chain slack required.

    I'd say 22mm is fine: if it was overtight, you'd notice it while riding.
  5. Its a cbr600f3 (98). Before I adjusted it the last time, the chain wasnt sagging at all, looked dead straight. Now you can *just* see it sagging a little.