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Chain tension + rider weight

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by oohsam, Aug 18, 2008.

  1. Whatup yall.
    So there are endless threads on chains....yes yes...

    So today I decide to clean my chain for the first time (12,000k's on the bike...never been cleaned...hmm...)

    Degreased it scrubbed it, washed it dried it, lubed it.

    Only problem is that my chain is so damn loose. Now my issue is that when it got serviced the chain was too damn tight and was making a fugly noise. So Upon takin it back to adjust the chain they tell me that coz im so heavy (90kgs??) when I sat on it the chain tightns heaps....which I know is true, but im not that frikken heavy...and it cant tighten all tha tmuch.

    My chain is so loose i can almost take it off the sprocket by lifting it up and pushing to the side. Since I live alone and have no friends in my hood, I cant really check the tension when Im on it...

    How the fark do yall know how much to tension ur chain...given your weight...or am i being stupid.

  2. Tension it so that it has between an inch and an inch and a half play. It should be free to move up and down but not floppy, and you shouldn't be able to pull it off the sprocket.
  3. +1

    A chain that loose might come off the sprocket and will also wear out the sprockets faster :!:
  4. Thanks guys, I'll attend to this tomrrow after work. cbf going outside now.

    and inch to half an inch....I have atleast 10 times that now...
  5. Setting chain tension has absolutely NOTHING to do with your weight. It is dependent on the amount of suspension travel you use, but even a light rider on a properly setup bike will use nearly all their travel from time to time on the street.

    And FYI, there is no magical measurement which somehow works for all bikes. Suspension travel, swingarm angle/length and distance of pivot from CS sprocket all changes how much slack you need. Read your manual or run your swingarm through it's full travel and adjust to the tight spot.
  6. Should read WILL come off the sprocket.
  7. 12000kms, never been cleaned or lubed???? Your chain is toast... or very nearly toast... nah, I'd go with toast. A well kept new chain wouldn't be at the point of being able to be removed in 12000km.

    You can adjust the tension to the manual's settings but if your chain is rooted (like I reckon it's likely to be) it'll stretch again in a short time. Put away the pennies, you're gonna need them soon.

    Devo makes a fair point, but for typical sporty style bikes though, 27 - 35mm is pretty standard chain slack. You just gotta know in what position the bike needs to be: side stand, centre stand, vertical...

  8. relax robsalvv - lol
    I lube it once a week. It is and was very well lubed up. I just never really degreased it and scrubbed it down like I did the the other night.

    Didn't make a hint of difference either....but tightening it tonight should do...
  9. So you were lubing the caked on gunky crusty build up... :LOL:

    Let us know how you go... perhaps it's not that toasted after all.

  10. Also be worth checking how much travel your body weight alone puts on the suspension. I could give you a number for what's normal, but it could also be very wrong depending on what bike you ride.

    In any case, 90kg, hardly a fat ass by bike maker's definition unless you're on a 125.
  11. What is an inch?
  12. You'd be surprised how much an inch can make a difference ;)

    Ok...So I tighted the chain. Gave it 1-1.5 inches of play (as bike stands)

    So i sit on it...and boviously its tighter...lets say half an inch of play.

    however. Now the chain sounds like donkey. Yes...a donkey

    eeeeee oooooo eeeee ooooo eeeee oooo

    When im riding. Obviosly the faster I go the quicker the donkey sound....I think my chain is toast....Either that or its too darn tight

    Advice anyone?

    I remember when I first got the bike the chain made the normal chain sound...
  13. It's either rooted, or it's complaining about being seen on a Whoflung.

    Time for a new one. Sprockets too. It'll cost you a bit, but if it makes you feel better, your bike will feel loads better once it's done.
  14. geez I hope its not complaining...its gonna be on there for a while !! hehe

    Yeah...I think you're right. I think i need new sprox and chain. Expensive is what? 250 buckeroos? I ride the bike to and from work so 250 i guess isnt too much to spend on my bike.

    If its more I will be shocked!
  15. Maybe a bit less. I wouldn't go for the most expensive stuff out there, you don't need it to last 40,000km.
  16. Chain and sprocks cost me $280 on my 250.

    Makes a world of difference when you go from worn to new.
  17. It doesn't matter how heavy you are, the free play on the chain should be set as per manual (~25-40mm). Check the free play at the bottom chain run, about half way between the sprockets.

    The free play is necessary because as the rear suspension compresses, the rear wheel effectively moves further away from the gearbox sprocket. The free play allows for this movement of the rear wheel so that the chain is nearly tight when/if the gearbox sprocket, swing arm axle and rear wheel axle are in line.

    If you had no free play, the chain would tighten up so much when weighted, that it would stop the suspension working properly.

    Rotate the rear wheel and find the tightest spot in the chain. Adjust the chain at the tight spot. This may make the chain too loose everywhere else, in which case it's worn out.