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Chain Slap?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by droy333, Jul 16, 2007.

  1. Hi, Recently (yesterday) after a fairly hard ride (not thrashing the nuts off it but alot of gear changes etc), my GSF250 Bandit started making a noise after slight decelleration after upshifts in gears 2-4.

    At the time I didnt know what it could be but I'm fairly certain its the chain because thats what it sounds like.

    I inspected the chain and it was a little yuck and needed oil, so what i was thinking was it has gotten hot and stretched a little? It does seem quite slack. I havent had the bike for that long.

    Anyway got some oil and put it on it. Helped somewhat but now I'm looking to adjust it. How hard of a job is it?

    I havent had a close look or anything as yet (work work work) but I was wondering if anyone has any information on adjusting the chain. I came accross a site that tells me it should be 25-35 mm. This is from the swing arm? If yes should the whole chain be between 25-35 mm?

    The chain seems awefully close to the centre stand but I cant see if it would be hitting there. Also made the noise after letting out the clutch quite hard which suggests the chain again?

    It sounds almost like your keys when you go after bad bumps but a more solid sound.

    Any info would be great. Sorry about the long post, im sure i could have done it with less reading.

  2. I have the same bike, and have had the same problem, my rule of thumb is about 10-15mm displacement with someone sitting on the bike and a few kg's (firm) pressure on the chain. you'll probably find scratch marks under the chain on the swingarm, before the plastic chain guide. May be a sign for new chain time, how many kays on it?
  3. Adjusting the chain isn't too hard a job.

    Push the chain up at the mid-point and push it back down again. Firmly but not too hard. The difference is the setting measurement.

    Lossen the axel bolt. Now have a good look at your adjuster screws and figure out which way moves the axel back. Now finger tighter them. Then adjust the two adjustment screws the same amount. I go a quarter turn on the socket at a time. Then re-check your slack.

    When you've done tighter your axel bolt back up.

    don't over tighten you chain. It will effect handling poorly and will wear the chain and sprocket out prematurely.
  4. If i get that wrong the wheel could be out of allignment could it not? How much would it cost for a workshop to do it. Wouldnt be much I guess based on time.

    The bike has 38000 on it. Spockets and chain look in good order (can take pictures when I get home).

    About sprokets. The bike does a little over 80kph at 7000rpm. So highway speeds the little thing is revving quite hard. Is it possible to change sprockets so i get a little less revving at higher speeds but not sacraficing accelleration too much. Therefore increasing fuel economy? Or too much hassal?
  5. Where do you live?, there may be a netrider who can show you how.

    These things are meant to rev their nuts off at 100km/h. If you change sprockets to rev less you'll have no acceleration. Dont worry about it.
  6. I live at southport on the gold coast. If someone knows how to do it and wants to show me then that would be awesome.

    As for revving its nuts off at 100kph, yeah its cool and I love the vibrations but before this bike I had a GPX250 and it seemed to rev less (although having the same redline etc). And the gearing was longer haha. I could reach 100 in 2nd and with this bike its more like 85-90. Hmmm.

    Get my Opens and Upgrade to a 600 of some kind. Something that doesnt rev as much.
  7. Tightening a chain is quite simple and safe - do it once and you'll readily agree - and, along with things like oil and filter changes, is something you'd be mad to pay somebody to do. I always buy the relevant Haines manual when I get a new bike, which will tell you all you need to know. Also, Dan is helpful, and good for a laugh... http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm

  8. If your gpx was reaching 100 in 2nd, it was definitely geared down, as stock its about 80.
  9. i was pretty slack with keeping my chain tight last month, had the same sounds. workshop will do it for a tenner, if they charge you. never let it get to this stage, or you'll be up for a new chain. and a new shin. and new sprockets. simple thing to do, buy some basic tools and learn to do it yourself
  10. It had higher profile tyres. I only got around to changing the front. After I did it handled so much better haha.

    As for the adjustment I think you guys have talked me into having a go. Will check it out and see if I have the right tools etc. If not off to the workshop.
  11. Yep! I just loosen the axle bolt on the one side. There should be a marker for getting the distance right on both sides.
  12. from those pictures, i would suggest that it is new chain & sprockets time.
    the chain looks as though it is stretched with some stiff links in it, and also showing sugns of rust etc. the rear sprocket looks to have been on since new, and there isnt a great deal of meat left on those teeth.
    ballpark figures for new chain & sprockets?
    ~$150-200 for chain
    ~$80 for front and rear sprockets
    it isnt exactly ESSENTIAL to change the sprockets at the same time as the chain, but it is common thought that a chain will stretch very fast on worn sprockets.
  13. One side at a time? Or just the one side? Just one side would put the balance out wouldnt it?

    As for a new chain and sprockets. Dont really have the dosh at the moment and the chain hasnt has any oil on it for quite a while by the looks of it before hand so the stiff links may free up a little after a while.

    Might have a crack at tightening it up.
  14. If the bike is tracking straight at the moment, both sides need to be equally tightened, otherwise it will put the wheel out of alignment with the bike.

    Rule of thumb is you wheel the bike until the chain is at it's tightest point, (i.e. point of the chain where you get the least play) then adjust the chain referencing that point.

    To check play during the adjustment, either sit on the bike, or have a (friend/significant other/grossly overweight pet) sit on the bike to put weight on the suspension, and check play.

    Adjust to about 2.5cm/1 inch of play at that point.

    Once you are satisfied, tighten the axle bolt back up, and while you or the assistant are sitting on it, wheel the bike along for a length of the chain, checking the play at points to make sure it is not too tight at points.

    If it is, find the tightest point and readjust from that point.

    And "Play" - the upwards and downwards motion of the chain when moderate finger pressure is applied. the measured play is midway between the sprockets, on the "lower" chain section, and the "play" distance is the displacement between upwards pressure on the chain, and equivalant downwards pressure on the chain.

    In other words, move the chain up and down and measure how far you can move it.

    If it is the first time for you doing it, I highly recommend an assistant for the first time. Easier to get an idea of what you are measuring.
  15. Do you have an owners manual or service manual? It has the instructions in there and its a very simple task. If you need the manuals i have both of them so just pm me
  16. Re the bolt and nut of the axle, you only need loosen the bolt. Re the adjuster screws, one side at a time is fine, as long they're even on each side when you've finished. There are markers to guide you getting an equal distance, are there not? The simple answer is that if you tension the screws to an equal distance on each side, you're fine - just tighten up the axle bolt again and fit a split-pin if (as I presume) it takes one.
  17. If you’re going to ride a bike, there are a few maintenance and repair tasks you would benefit from being able to do, if only to ensure that you don’t get royally shafted for labour charges for simple stuff.

    First off, get a manual for your bike. Regardless of whether you intend to do your own work or not you need one. Maybe you’re not going to work on your bike but your mate who is will appreciate it. The manufacturer’s own is best but may be expensive or difficult to obtain. Failing that, of the aftermarket ones available, I like Haynes, which are not as bad as they’re made out to be if you actually READ them. Clymer seem popular but at least one bloke whose opinion I respect doesn’t like ‘em. Not tried them myself. If you can’t find a model specific book, Haynes do (did?) a general tome on motorcycle maintenance which should be adequate for basic tasks.

    Having equipped yourself with the book of knowledge, I’d say (and this is only my own opinion) you need to familarise yourself with how to do the following:-

    (i) Adjust chain.
    (ii) Check tyre pressures.
    (iii) Check/change brake pads.
    (iv) Check/change all fluids (oil and coolant) and oil filter.
    (v) Remove and replace either wheel.
    (vi) Change head, tail and indicator globes.
    (vii) Remove/replace/charge battery.
    (viii) Check the bike over for anything obviously amiss (loose bits, dangling wires, fluid leaks etc).

    Admittedly, some of these depend on the bike. A full fairing can make any or all of them rather involved (eg, my BMW R1100RT requires the removal of a lot of bodywork to achieve (vi) and (vii), which I wouldn’t fancy doing at the roadside, or if I wasn’t comfortable with spannering) and lack of a centrestand can be a (soluble) problem with (v) but most shouldn’t be too hard to learn with the help of a manual and experienced assistance the first time you do it. However, you should aim to be able to do any of these unassisted and (i), (v), (vi) and (vii) at the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. In horizontal rain and inky blackness. Because, one day, you’ll have to, that’s why. (DAMHIK).

    It might seem a little daunting but, if you’ve got a pulse and you’re sufficiently coordinated to ride a bike, you’re quite capable of learning to do this stuff to a level of competence indistinguishable from the average professional. Probably better because it’s YOUR bike and nobody cares about it more than you do.
  18. ok so all done. Adjusted it twice cause it was too easy and it needed more than I thought. Went for a ride and it was sweet. Still riding straight which is a good thing.

    Got someone to sit on it while I checked it etc. Its probably a bit looser than it should be but I'm almost out of adjustment which means new chain and sprockets comming soon.

    As for the other posts. I plan to do a full oil change, Flush Coolant and change plugs. As for the brakes, no need they are still good.

    I do however need to adjust the clutch. The cable broke a little while ago and I got a shop to fit a new one. It was good to start out with but now I need to pull it in waaayyyy to far to fully utilize the clutch.

    Anyway I can make it act sooner (maybe not too much cause its basically there) and have less clutch (ie. make the clutch fully operable at about 1cm from the bar?)? I could be crazy.
  19. Well put. It's all so easy once you've done it once, even if you're previously mechanically inexperienced (which is my experience), and such satisfaction. Indeed it becomes an integral and positive part of the whole motorcycle experience, enriching your relationship with the machine.

    The point about caring is explored well in 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' - it's worth reading for those who haven't and like to reflect on this sort of thing (if you can get past the idiosyncratic and sometimes pretensious philosophising of Pirsig!*).

    (*I'm referring to his discussions of philosophy (Plato, Kant), not of motorcycling - he should have stuck to the latter.)