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Chain slack

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Aaron, Jan 30, 2005.

  1. G'day, my VTR250 booklet says the my chain slack should be between 25mm-35mm, well the slack is at 35mm.



    Should I take it to a mechanic to get tightened ? Or wait a little while and if it slackens off any more maybe do some thing ?
     
  2. G'day Aaron

    It is at the limit of its acceptable range, so now is the time to adjust it. It will slacken some more, coz that's what chains do (the metal side-plates stretch, believe it or not). As it gets slacker, it also contributes to sprocket wear.

    This isn't a job that needs a mechanic (unless you are REALLY dangerous with tools - like "which end of the screwdriver should I use to hit the nail?"). Have a look at Dan's Motorcycle Repair Course (http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm) for the good oil on how to adjust your chain (http://www.dansmc.com/rearchain.htm.)
     
  3. can anyone say PHANOONGY

    sorry mate, couldnt resist :p :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
     
  4. Boom tish

    Sorry mate it was just sitting there! No harm no fowl :)
     
  5. yea dont do a phanoongy.....its a baaaaad thing to do
     
  6. Look like a job for CRC mate if it's that tight spray some on the thread and leave o'night..try again then and yes you must undo...tight and undo the locknut and adjusting nut on WTF as well. :)
     
  7. Doesn't the booklet you have also state the steps to adjusting your chain?

    Anyways, as thelodger said, you need to loosen the bolt on both swingarms that you have labelled 'tight'. Then turn the nut on each swingarm that faces backwards that you have labelled 'wtf'. Make sure each of the 'wtf' nuts gets turned equally on both sides so as not to put your wheel out of alignment. Turning the 'wtf' nut will pull the rear wheel closer towards the back of the bike, thereby increasing the distance between each sprocket and tightening the chain. Once teh chain slack is correct, tighten the swigarm bolts you labelled as 'tight'. Viola! :)
     
  8. Can I also add that you should only make small adjustments, retighten the bolt you labeled "tight", check the slack, then re-adjust if required.

    I was also told to do the adjustment with the bike on the sidestand, (not centrestand) and it's better to get on the bike and roll it forwards and backwards a coupla times before checking the slack.
    Dunno if you have to, but it can't hurt.

    JJ
     
  9. Of course you could always trade it on a BMW... :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

    (and not one of those single cylinder things either)
     
  10. Don't believe it - it's a riding myth! What actually happens is the wearing away of the metal around the rivetted links. As the chain flex's around your sprockets, they rotate on the rivets and this movement wears away the immediately surrounding metal. This is how your chain 'stretches' and increases in length.
     
  11. Well, I did say 'believe it or not'. Of course, the stretch is only apparent at high speed...once you stop, the links shrink back to their normal size, which only serves to make the wear on the pins more apparent. You can test this yourself by accelerating up to freeway speed and then measuring the links with a vernier. Do it again when the bike is stationary and you'll see the difference... or so Phanoongy tells me. :)
     
  12. [quote="Chairman"
    Well, I did say 'believe it or not'. Of course, the stretch is only apparent at high speed...once you stop, the links shrink back to their normal size, which only serves to make the wear on the pins more apparent. You can test this yourself by accelerating up to freeway speed and then measuring the links with a vernier. Do it again when the bike is stationary and you'll see the difference... or so Phanoongy tells me. :)[/quote]

    You've put your finger on it exactly Mark! :)
     
  13. chain stretch is certianly noticable when the bike is stopped... measure mine if you dont believe it

    a 10 link section of my chain that I measured was something like 159mm where the yamaha specified limit is 151mm