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Chain Replacement - Sprockets are still ok?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Toefa, Oct 10, 2007.

  1. Hey guys, I have done a quick search but couldn't find a definitive answer...Hoping for some help.

    My chain has a heap of really bad tight spots, all the way round (despite regular maintenance), but my rear sprocket looks fine.

    I have always been told, that when replacing a chain, you must buy new sprockets at the same time, otherwise the chain will wear rapidly and also the other way around (if ya buy new sprockets and leave the old chain, the sprockets will wear quick).

    Is that just a myth? :?

  2. Dunno of it's a myth, but it's a philosophy I'm happy to go with; New chain? New sprockets.

    It'd be hard to imagine your sprockets haven't sustained some damage if your chain's that stuffed. Just my 2c.
  3. Your new chain will wear at a fast rate of knots on used sprockets, I know from experience (or lack of it)

    replace the sprockets, they are fairly cheap.
  4. It's not a bad rule of thumb, but personally I'd be looking at the tips of the sprockets to make an assessment.

    your bike doesn't have a lot of grunt, so I'd be surprised if it did much damage to the sprockets.
  5. i am just about to do the chain only, i ride down a dirt road every day for work and my chain is shagged sprockets are still fine.....so i figure why replace something that still good. If it means i might only get 20 thou out of my next chain i can live with that :)
  6. I recently replaced my very sad looking chain (was stretched to smithereens) and sprockets. I can't recall what price the sprockets were off the top of my head, but they weren't expensive. The mechanic said that they prefer to do chain + sprockets for the reasons given above.
  7. Thanks everyone, looks like i will be replacing the sprockets too :)

    Just one last question ........Is the "Pitch" of a chain, the space between the rollers?
  8. The chain pitch is the distance between two adjacent pin centres.
  9. Like this?

  10. Yep
  11. Cool, thanks 2wheelsagain :)
  12. sprockets are the cheap part... $60 for a set for my bike.. chain is usually $100+
  13. Back when I was condemned to chain drive bikes, and had no money, I only changed sprockets when they were visibly worn (careful close inspection, not a quick glance). Chain life didn't vary much between good, used sprox and new ones. Good job because, on my Eastern Blocers, the rear sprocket was a substantial major component that obviously wasn't designed as disposable.

    Front sprox wore about 3x as fast as rears (think about it) so got changed more frequently. Wear varied from bike to bike, but I'd generally get a couple of chains out of a front one.

    Then I discovered the joys of the once-despised shafties and haven't had to boil anything in grease since :grin: :grin: .
  14. And you have learnt to live with the power and torque loss of a sharft drive system. :wink:
  15. Well, yeah, but seeing as I can still lose anything on four wheels away from the lights, and more than double any speed limit in Australia (barring the NT), the difference is purely academic :grin: . I'd question just how efficient a rusty, dragging on the ground chain is anyway, which is something I see on a depressingly large number of otherwise shiny sports bikes.

    I've not noticed a handling penalty when being sane either, with things like tyre choice and lazy steering geometry having more influence on the matter.
  16. If the chain is shagged, so is the front sprocket (only $35 for a CroMo replacement anyway). Back one may still be OK. Need to check condition but experienced eye required, so ask a friend if in doubt.
  17. pony up and order a ChainGang rear sprocket, it will out live your bike and save you having to worry about them in the future. Fronts are cheap anyway so replacing them isn't a big hit in the pocket and changing the fronts lets you inspect the countershaft seal which is never a bad thing to do...