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Chain Noise.

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by droy333, Oct 26, 2007.

  1. Hey,

    I have a Bandit 250 1994 model.

    The chain is on its way out and has been pretty slack. The chain was touching the centrestand.

    I've used the rest of my adjustment (pretty much) and noticed some "tight spots". Where the chain is tighter at a point where i spin the back wheel than other points. Now when riding at around 70 klms i hear a slight knockity knock noise (i think it may be a little tight now because of the tight spot and I didnt adjust for sitting on the bike or bumps).

    Could this be because the chain is really worn or is it cause its off centre. It doesnt look off centre and seems to be tracking straight (I did both sides up the same amount). I thought it could be the tight part I'm hearing.

    My next question. I've read a bit of a very basic guide on the net to changing the chain and sprockets and it seems simple enough with the right tools. How hard is it to change the chain and sprockets. I know the sprockets wouldnt be a hassal but getting the old chain off seems like one hell of a task since i think I have an endless chain.

    Any help or advice would be apreciated. Yes taking it into a shop is an option but I'm "working" from home all weekend and would prefer to get to know the bike a little better.

  2. Simple job to do yourself.

    Taking the old chain off is as simple as plugging in an angle grinder! :grin:
  3. Sounds like it's worn, and it's time for a new one. Changing it isn't that difficult even without the right tools, particularly if you use a chain with a clip type link (works fine for a 250 especially on something like the Bandit which is also designed to take a 400cc engine). If the old chain is an endless type then an angle grinder is your friend. Either grind down a couple of pins and hammer them out or just cut through the sideplates. New chains are fairly easy to fit especially if you're changing the sprockets as well - there's an excellent on line guide somewhere for doing this, if I get a chance I'll try and find it (pretty sure it was for changing the chain on a BMW F650 but a chain's a chain).
    Edit: Ahh found it, everything you could want to know about chains and sprockets
  4. Yes, time for a new one.
  5. When adjusting a chain you should take your measurements from the tightest part of the chain. Just turn back wheel around until you find the tight spot. If you set up the slack measurement to that point and it is way too sloppy and noisey elsewhere, then its time for a new chain.

    Get yourself a manual for your bike. Follow the instructions on how to remove the components that are in the way of removing the chain in 1 piece. (rear axle brake caliper, realasing shock mount and swing arm pivot bolt.

    You could also cut the chain in half with an angle grinder. Keep the old chain! In case you don't have the info on you regarding how many "links" long the chain is. New chains are usually sold at a generic length and you need to shorten them to the correct number of links to suit your bike. Once again this is a job for a grinder.

    Grind off (at the correct link) The joining pin, do this slowly so as not to get the chain too hot especially if an o ring type chain. You can then feed the chain back onto the bike Set tension adjusters to min tension. Using a split link supplied with the chain (follow instructions) you can join the chain on the bike without pulling the whole thing to pieces.

    I personally do not trust split links. I cut the chain to length and take it to a bike shop (they have the proper tools) and get them to put a permanent link on making the chain endless.

    my cents2

  6. I changed my chain & sprockets last weekend. It's straight-forward.

    A dremel/angle grinder and a chain break/press/rivet tool make things a lot easier. I got a chain tool off ebay for about $100 - looks pretty industrial and broke, pressed and riveted my 530 without a bother. If you search around on the web I think it can be done with mole grips and ball pien (sp?) hammers but I didn't trust myself enough not too spaz a hammer into the swingarm :)

    I also used a set of vernier calipers to check that the rivet has 'shroomed out enough. I'm fairly risk averse to maintenance shortcuts around critical parts such as the drive chain so invested in the tools to do the job properly and to be able to check that the results were within the manufacturers recommended tolerances.... but hey... thats just me and I figure the $$$ spent on tools will be claimed back in reduced servicing costs in the medium term.

    As an aside I got chain and sprockets from chaingang. Spoke to chris on the phone, great service, quick to process and ship and great looking sprockets..... mmm ... a very tasty red to go with my bike :)

    ohh ... a torque wrench isn't a bad idea either. Advice wise - unloosen the driven sprocket nut with the old chain on and rear brake applied for obvious reasons. Also loosen the rear sprocket nuts with the wheel still on the bike and brake applied as well. I did the sprocket nuts after taking the rear off which meant I had to squat on it whilst trying to lever the breaker bar .... pretty sure not how the pro's do it... but I didn't want to lie the wheel flat and risk warping the rotor.

    Overall, pretty straightforward but I think having the right tools prolly makes it easier (took me about an hour). Oh last bit of advice is that the new chain is prolly longer than you need so measure twice and cut once ... also helps if you have somewhere clean to lay the new chain down to measure it against the old .... mine seems to have picked up a lot of dog hair

  7. Also seen a technique described involving a C-clamp and a suitably sized ball bearing placed on the head of the pin. Not that dissimilar to the proper tool but much cheaper.
  8. Thanks for all the information guys.

    I will try and have a look for the right tools. Angle grinder is a good investment and powertools are cheap as chips these days.

    Will also check out chaingang. Thanks.


    PS. If there is anyone on the gold coast that likes to show off their mechnical skills let me know lol.
  9. So i had a look and a bit of a clean. Looks easy as....

    One thing... I accidently degreesed my chain as I was cleaning the rear wheel. Is that a bad thing? I play to replace it soon but just wanted to know.
  10. By the sounds of it, degreasing it isn't going to make it any worse than it already is. :wink:
  11. +1 to that. The only disclaimer would be if you are NOT planning on replacing the sprockets at the same time, in which case, grease it again.
  12. yeha mate i had the same problem on my 1993 bandit. it used to hit the centre stand when i got off the throttle. The chain is easy to change once you have dont it once. just get a chain buster, or as some one else suggested an angle grinder. lol. sprockets are simple to do, and take baout 2 minutes.

    Good lcuk with it mate.

  13. Best when you do so to change the lot, chain and both sprockets otherwise the enw chain you bought will be knackered in half the time.