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Chain Adjustment - Index Marks

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Chief, Sep 28, 2006.

  1. There appeared to be more slack than the recommended 30-40 mm so I've just attempted my first chain adjustment on my CB400.

    The notches on the axle washer were lined up with the index marks on both sides of the bike. I moved the adjustment one notch further to the rear and then thechain was then far too tight.

    Here's my question. Is it OK for the alignment notch to be lined up say, half way between the indicator marks or is that just too hard to judge for accurate axle alignment. While I know its important, how critical is it that they are spot on lined up with the index marks on each side?


  2. The index marks are just used as a guide. You don't need it aligned directly on them. You can go haflway in between. The important thing is that the markers are the same on each end, the chain is not to loose or tight and that the bike still rides straight.
  3. The adjustment marks are almost never aligned side to side, meaning the third from the front on the right probably doesnt line up with the third from the front on the left, which means your back wheel will be out of alignment. On my sv650 the marks were out by the distance between the marks. You need to align your wheels, or get them aligned properly, then put a punch mark where the alignment is correct. alignment can be done with straight egges, etc. this thread from the sv downunder site has a discussion on it http://www.svdownunder.com/forums/index.php?topic=705.0
  4. Chain adjustment, the facts.

    Keep in mind that for the average punter, those stamped marks for chain adjustment are close, however very rarely are they ever spot on, as they are mass produced. There are several methods to align your rear wheel correctly, probaly the most common is to string align the rear with the front wheel (pm me if u wish to use this method and I will explain.) Use a straight edge or use a laser beam down the chain and see if it is running true. Always adjust the chain at it's tightest spot and with someone sitting on the motorcycle, 12mm-20mm slack is acceptable. Correct adjustment,( regardless of where the axle markers fall within the stamped marks) and lube the chain. Tighten the axle nut then nip up the adjuster bolts and lock nuts. do be aware that the chain will invariably go a little tighter when u do up the axle nut. 1 or 2mm out of alignment will be hard to pick on a commuter or even on a weekend punter as far as handling goes, obviously the chain/sprocket wear increases. I have measured up to 10mm out of alignment on new BMW 1100gs's, keeping in mind they are shaft drive and can't be adjusted (easily) but they handle exceptionally well. Race bikes become a different ball game. Anyway Chief, I hope I have enlightened u a little and that your 400 benefits.
  5. Thanks everyone. Being new to motorcycling its easy to perhaps get unnecessarily paranoid, especially where it has a bearing on safe riding. The benefit of the forum is that there are plenty of you willing to part with your knowledge and experience.