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CB400 2009 Penrite 10w-40?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by fokmaster, Feb 3, 2016.

  1. Hi guys,

    I need to change the oil since its been sitting in the garage for 3 years when i bought this bike. im wondering if the full synthetic 10w-40 Penrite everyday is suitable for this bike??

  2. 10-40 Penrite Sythetic is a good oil.

    What has the bike had in the past? It is better to stick with either mineral or synth and not dodge back and forth. 10-40 is in the range recommended for most motorcycle engines 15-40 or even 20-50 for really hot conditions. Check you owners manual - most recommend oils in this range 10-40 might be what is regarded as a "Winter oil."

    If a bike has been sitting for that length of time, I'd be inclined to go for mineral oil at least for the first time.

    When bikes sit a long time, seals have a tendency to harden and may compress on one side if at all loose. Synthetic oil seems to have a way of getting through and past anything which is not absolutely tight. By using mineral oil first, you get a chance to assess the integrity of the seals (output shaft, shift shaft are ones that commonly do this). I'd be "testing the water" first with mineral oil. Next oil change if all seems tight, make the migration to synthetic oil.

    Choice of oil? Diesel oil has superior detergent properties and will "loft" any grunge in your engine better than non- diesel oil will. Diesel oils do not generally contain friction modifiers and are good on motorbike wet clutches. In selecting oils for your motorbike, look for JASO MA specification (OK for motorbike wet clutches) though this may not be a specification applicable for diesel engine oils or present on the labelling. Make your next oil change early after only a small number of thousands of km - get rid of the junk, then choose the oil you really want to use.

    Consider it a clean out, then decide whether you want to change to synth then. If oil weeps and leaks are apparent, synthetic oil will make them even more so. This can be alarming. One older bike I have weeps from almost every joint a little with synth and will drip from shaft exits. Not so with mineral oil. To go to synth straight up, may give you the impression that your engine is not sealed well at all, and that your seals are stuffed.

    However, if the bike was run on synth before and that is what it has in it, stay with synthetic oil. It is also a good idea to change oil immediately before storing a bike for any length of time
  3. Get the Penrite HPR Diesel 10 (10w-40) Semi Synth.

    Its all I use in my CeeBee and Its Jaso MA rated. I get it when its on Special in 5l bottles. 2 bottles sees 3 oil changes.

    Most of Penrites Full Synth are not MA rated. Always check the bottle for the MA rating. Penrite normally chuck a Bike logo on as well where it supports bikes (MA)
  4. I use Penrite HPS Gas-10, managed to get 10 litres for $60
  5. Thanks, Ive just changed to the penrite 10-40w synthetic and so far it seems like nothing is leaking. I bought this bike with 3000km on its ODO. it has done its last service 300kms 3 years ago and was stored then.

    But when i changed it and drove it a bit around i dont know if theres suppose to be a bit of a stuttering at the lower rpm of this bike like a chugging of some sort. Strange...
  6. Also the penrite did bottle did say it is suitable for 4 stroke motorcycles with a wet clutch