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castrol magnatec

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by jphanna, Nov 8, 2011.

  1. guys i know there are been several previous oil threads. having not much luck with the search tool. i will figure it out soon....

    guys, 10W-40 is the grade my bike uses.

    It just so happens to be the same grade that Castrol Magnatec is. can it be used safely and effectively, for a mbike, or do i have to use 'boutique' motor bike oils that you only get in mbike shops?

    if this is a dumb question, then put it down to my 2011 quota
  2. Four words:

    Friction modifiers, wet clutch.

    If you have one, you can't have the other.

    Most car oils have friction modifiers.
  3. You are aware that oil is a friction modifier, right?
    Secondly, as Oil technology get better, synthetic oil is more slipery than it's mineral friends. At what coefficient of friction do you propose the decrease of friction caused by modifiers is more of a problem than the decrease of friction caused by higher quality mineral/synthetic oil?
  4. You do not have to buy oil at a motorcycle shop - lots of places other than them sell motorcycle oil e.g larger servos, Supercheap etc.

    You do not have to use oil specially designed for motorcycles provided it is compatible , see The Oil Controversy thread
    but be prepared for a bloody long read. (Summary - Caltex's Delo diesel is relatively cheap and works well.)

    But you do probably need to use an oil compatible with your clutch (unless like mine your clutch is not lubricated by the engine oil) otherwise your clutch may start slipping.

    Sorry I do not know if Magnatec is specifically compatible and if in doubt do not use it. If someone can autoritively state that it is OK fine but until then I wouldn't take the risk.
  5. Do your homework, then understand why you don't use friction modified oils designed for cars in bikes that have wet clutches and share the engine oil with the gearbox and clutch.

    Along similar lines, car oils generally don't have to deal with meshing transmission gears, so the formulae for the most common car and bike oils of even moderate quality differ.
  6. I would go a motorbike oil.
    AT supercheap or what ever, something like that. I use the castrol synthetic and I find it as good as anything. And $45 for four liters. Sometimes they have it on special.
    It actually smooths out the gear changes on all my bikes. All V's or big thumpers. Heaps better than Motul for mine and two thirds the price.
  7. Eh? :-s If the oil is already slippery enough, why would they put friction modifiers in oil then?? :-k
  8. Thought it was mostly heat and cleaning beads in a synthetic
  9. Because very few mineral base oils are multigrade, most are single grade. Viscosity index improvers (friction modifiers) are then added, to stop the oil thinning out at higher temperatures and give it it's multigrade rating. These days though it is an advertising ploy (our patented formula will save you petrol and crap like that)
    Semi-synthetic is where they add synthetic oil to the base mineral oil. They don't add any VII (friction modifiers) because the synthetic oil will give you a wider rating than a modifier can give, without the cost of going fully synth.
    Then fully synth doesn't need any modifiers added after production, because the characteristics are inherent in it's formula.
  10. I was always dead against the phasing out of leaded petrol.

    Until now.
    • Like Like x 1
  11. Killbot... friction modifiers aren't viscosity index improvers. You're right about what VII's do, but that's NOT what FM's are about. Sorry mate.

    For some facts about motorcycles and oils, including stuff about friction modifiers have a look at this: http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm
  12. i contacted my dealer, and they insist on using Castrol Active4T. they dont change even after its run in.

    He also said that they dont like synthetic oils because they cause clutch shudder. i will use what my dealer recommends
  13. At approximately the point of the coefficient of friction when your clutch slips whilst fully engaged.



    Active 4T is a good oil jphanna (y)
  14. Just to clear the air about friction modifiers: the oil is there to prevent metal to metal contact. The friction modifiers are there to minimise the damage caused by metal to metal contact.

    And I will probably be flamed for this, but here goes. Magnetec is rubbish, dont put it in your bike. If you need a mineral oil try a good quality diesel oil like delo 400, or a motorcycle oil. If you need synthetic, find a polyolefin or ester based oil, the other synthetic oils are crap.
    The price of the oil is not always related to the quality of the oil. The regularity of your oil changes matters more than the quality of oil you use, and if you change your oil without changing the filter you may as well not have bothered.

    I dont want to turn this into another oil controversy thread, but it seems you haven't read it so I'm just trying to help out.
    • Like Like x 1
  15. No flaming from me. My bike runs on Delo 400. :)
  16. #16 Dougz, Nov 9, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
    Mine too, soon
  17. Oils aint Oils Sol,and John Paul-you wont need to worry,you just bought a new bike and your dealer will be servicing it for at least 2 years
  18. Subtle work there Blab. That just set a very high bar for future posts.