Why didn't I do this when I got the bike! It's one of those jobs on a bike that is shrouded in mystery, and has had a lot of "black art" stigma assigned to it. Basically it is pertty straightforward, with the hardest part removing the fuel tank (if needed for access to carbs on your bike) and setting up a fuel supply for the carbs when the tank is gone. What you are trying to achieve is to have each carburettor drawing the same amount of air for each individual cylinder at the same time. This means that each cylinder is sharing equally in producing the same amount of power at the same time, so the cylinders are not "fighting" each other (ie, one working harder to keep a stable rpm/load than another cylinder). For a clearer understanding of why motorcycle engines have a carburettor for each cylinder, look up "ram tuning" "independent runner" and "tuned length" on Google. It is all about resonant frequencies. Anyway, teh process is fairly simple, and all you need is a simple two gauge vacuum gauge set. You can buy four gauge sets, but they are completely unnecessary. On a two cylinder bike, you just attach each gauge to each carb vacuum port, but on an inline four or triple, you attach the two gauges to the left two carbs. Start engine and warm up, and adjust the damper screws on the gauges tso the needle flickers one grauation on the gauge scale or less. Don't over damp, as you'll end up with an unresponsive gauge set. Then you adjust the synchronisation screw to equalise the vacuum reading between carbs. A small adjustment goes a long way, and blip the throttle lightly betwen adjustments, to settle the linkages back into place. Once you have cylinder one and two synched together, you leave cylinder one attached as a reference, and move the other gauge to cylinder three and repeat process, then onto cylinder four. You'll probably have to adjust your idle speed after this process, and it is a good idea to recheck your carb synch at this higher idle speed (you still have the gauges out anyway!). What you get out of this is a much smoother engine, not just at idle, but through the bottom third of the rpm range, you'll get more torque, and smoother delivery of that torque. You'll also get improved fuel consumption and if your bike has flat spots in acceleration crusing around, you'll probably eliminate these too. I thought my bike was reasonably close to being in tune, but the carbs were way off, with a 40% difference across the set of four carbs! Anyway, if you are thinking of having a go at a carb synch, it's not that difficult, it just requires patience and basic mechanical skills. I'd say if you can change your own spark plugs, you can synch carbs. Of course, consult your bike workshop manual for any special techniques particular to your bike's model. Regards, Andrew.