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Car Tech: Halfshaft removal FWD vehicle

Discussion in 'The Pub' at netrider.net.au started by rs101, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. Hey hey,

    I'm putting out an appeal to anyone with experience in removing jammed halfshafts from front wheel drive transaxles.

    The car in question is an '02 Kia Rio. The driveshaft buggered a bearing on the inboard driveshaft, and removal is proving difficult.
    The driveshaft attaches to the differential gear via a spline-type configuration with a matching groove in the inner and outer spline and a circlip. When the grooves align, the circlip expands into the open space and holds the position.

    The problem -

    The halfshaft should theoretically remove from the tranxaxle with nothing more then a few "hail marys" and a pry bar. The circlip should easily click out of the spline notch. (from the Service manual).

    First off I started with a big cold chisel. I then moved to a pry-bar on either side, rotating and lightly hammering the halfshaft (after separating the bearing), all in the vain attempt to separate the components. I then drilled the stub and ran some wires to "tug it out".

    Long story short, I ended up drilling a much larger hole, running a 10mm steel dowel through, connected to a 30mil flat bar, and using another 10mm dowel for a handle. Rocking the vehicle on the axle stand, still no luck.

    There is a distinct chance of the circlip being partially squashed or jammed... any ideas for removal?


     
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  2. [​IMG]
    Put it out with this weeks recycling :)
     
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  3. 02 Kia you say, gotta love Korean engineering :p

    (sorry don't have a useful reply ;))
     
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  4. :LOL: Love the photo. It's a good car aside from this, methinks it might have been the previous mechanics, as there was a reciept for the LHS oil seal with the documents (requires half-shaft removal). Gonna drop into the dealer tomorrow and speak to the mechanics, Was mainly wondering if anyone had any tips for removing halfshafts.


    On the upside, it was a good excuse to go for a ride on the bike today to pick up a drill bit sharpener. Even rode with four non-nodding riding buddies (same non-mc patches) on late-model harlies. Til I pulled off to get some beer... or "thinking medicine". Took me three beers to get through the hole drilling and resharpening (high carbon bearing surfaces versus HSS bits)
     
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  5. You need to make room for the half shaft to come out. Either undo the lower control arm bolts, or undo the steering knuckle/lower strut balljoint from the control arm. This now allows the steering knuckle to swing outwards. It wil pivot on the top mount on the Macpherson strut as an assembly.
    Have someone yank on the steering knuckle whilst prying the splined end of the driveshaft out.

    Regards, Andrew.
     
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  6. Double post.
     
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  7. Sorry mate, thats all I could contribte. I have no idea about front wheelers.
     
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  8. I have separated the inboard bearing boot and the inboard bearing hub, so 3/4 of the halfshaft is out. I have also removed the disc and hub for access. The problem is that the half-shaft (or the stub), the 20-odd centimetres of metal with a spline on the end is stuck, and is shitting me up the wall - the problem isn't access, the b!tch won't move when it should
     
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  9. I'm not sure I can fully picture what you're up against but if you've got a shaft stub that needs to come out of a hole, it might be time to get serious and make up a puller to apply some real force.

    Am I right in thinking you've drilled into the stub? If so, you can drill to a biggish tapping size. One that you can get a tap and a decent length HT bolt for. Get a bolt screwed into the stub and you've got something you can get purchase on. Now with some hefty flat bar and some more bolts, it should be possible to rig an arrangement that bears on some suitably rigid part of the diff housing and jack the stub out using either the bolt that's in it, or the two that are supporting the flat bar.

    Difficult to explain without pictures and does require a bit of engineering, but even if you have to buy taps, bolts and flat bar, it should still be cheaper than paying a pro (who will inevitably bugger up your car :evil: and charge you a premium for doing so).
     
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  10. Cheers, may have to just do that. Essentially, it's a shaft coming out of a hole. on the "cylinder" on the end of the shaft (think wineglass style), there is a 10mil hole on one side, and a 3 mil through hole on the other side (damn 10mil drill bit effed up, steel is too hard)

    There is aluminium webbing that gets in the way of a secure mounting point on the trannie case, but clever angle grinder use would be able to make a one-off jig to mount a welded nut in a press-type configuration. the only concern about making a jig that connects to the chassis is potential mounting rubber damage to the engine/transaxle configuration. It would be safer to put the stress through the transmission case, at least if I put a nice hole in the side cover I can get the assembly out.

    And +1 to the comment about mechanics, the difference is that someone else pays for the "special tools" that get broken. Definitey add your solution to to the short list, at this stage, anything will do. Fcuk the oil seal, I want that shaft out, now! (a two minute cum 14 hour job)
     
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  11. Sometimes the spring clips can be a bugger, they tend to jam, hook up or twist.
    Sometimes, whacking the splined end all the way back in, and giving it a good solid lever with the pry bar gets it, sometimes applying leverage with the bar, and tapping the CV housing gets it too.

    Regards, Andrew.
     
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  12. +1 on Andrews sugestion. Other option is to see if the other shaft will come out and try and bash it out with a drift from the other side.
     
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  13. Noooooooo! Don't do anything that pushes on the rubber mountings. You'll b*gger the mountings and they'll so reduce the effectiveness of anything you try that it won't work anyway.

    Beware of angle grinding aluminium. I've done it without problems (apart from a tendency to clog the grinding disc) but I've heard tales of the grinding residue igniting, which would certainly be very exciting if true. Particularly if theres any iron/steel grindings around too. Can you say "thermite reaction" boys and girls :LOL: .
     
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  14. Very, very true.

    From Workcover:
     
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  15. wow! so aluminum shavings + iron shavings = awesomeness!?!?!

    there's alittle science lesson in everything... ok, now to get out the angle grinder... :LOL:
     
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  16. hence why I was going to grind the jig to suit the webbing, not the other way around. You'd be pretty silly to grind the webbing from a stressed member like a trannie case....

    Now, about this thermite.... :twisted:

    <Beaving & Butthead> Hehe, Fire!! Fire!! </B&B>
     
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