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Car stereo options

Discussion in 'The Pub' started by A boy named Sue, Jan 19, 2013.

  1. The CD player on my wife's corolla has died (working as a radio only). Any ideas on where to get a new head unit and a powered sub installed? I'm just going to leave the stock speakers because I think they'll be fine once they don't have to handle any bass. Is the normal idea to buy the kit you want and then get an auto-electrician to install? I'm getting somebody else to do the install due to my inability to not break bits of plastic..

  2. Strathfield Car Radio. They will sell and install whatever you might need.

    Unless you're near the Sutherland Shire, in which case you should go and see Owen at Cronulla Car Sound (actually on the Princes Highway at Kirrawee, not Cronulla).
  3. Thanks, I've bought stuff from them before and it was ok. I didn't know they did the install work too.
  4. Ryda on Parramatta Road, Petersham is pretty good. They also do online: ryda.com.au
  5. Be careful though, most of the installers in big places like Strathfields do dodgy jobs because the installers don't even see the customers and the quicker they get a job out the quicker they get another in the more they get paid as they are generally contractors. As a general rule anyway.

    My advice, buy whatever you want and then go direct to an auto electrician (provided that you don't want to do it yourself as mentioned in op). That way you pay them directly and you can keep an eye on the work they do or at least have a chat to them about what kind of job they are going to do.

  6. alot of jb hifi's will install their gear nowadays....had the ms's laser hooked up with a new head unit n speakers bout a year back....can't complain about their work.
  7. http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-TS-WX110A-Space-Saving-Amplified-Subwoofer-p/tswx110a.htm



    From ryda and I'll just get the sub(with amp) under the front seat so the install should be pretty easy with no new speakers getting mounted into doors or anything (although still beyond me as it involves taking off the dash without breaking it). Should sound a lot better with a sub -- I'll live with the stock speakers as replacing them opens up a world of ugly installs.
  8. what year rolla' is it?
  9. ...I might buy it online today (so I don't change my mind) and then get a local guy to do the install. Thanks for the inputs.
  10. 2004 ascent, why?
  11. ...just noticed your username 87crisis. It is a FWD gutless city car with a 4 speed auto, nothing to see here.
  12. yeah the stock speakers are pretty good in those guys....the mother has one (was just thinking if it was a older model the speaker change would be a breeze and probably warranted)

    might interest you to look into the shallow ute subs if you havn't already.
  13. i've got a 3 speed auto 2.2 litre hilux .....your car would still have more balls.

    but i favor the snorlux for the sound system n well...bogans belong in ute's.
  14. Purchased. This all started because I couldn't listen to RATM in the car this morning -- now everyone will be able to hear it :devil:. Should delay the new bike for a while to, so I'm actually saving money here.
  15. #15 davidp1984, Jan 19, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
    Speakers are shit easy to replace provided they are generic sizes and shapes, as in round 6in. They will make a world of difference in sound and would definitely recommend changing the speakers before adding subs and amps. That goes for generally any stock car stereo system (even the ones that boast 8 speaker stereo systems etc). You can still keep the original cover on the speakers so that no one will know its aftermarket speakers unless taking a real closer look.

    You will find the OEM speakers will be alot more distorted because the aftermarket headunit would be more powerful. Speakers are dirt cheap as well.

    I would also go for Pioneer or Kenwood well before going for Sony in the car audio department.

    Have a chat to a guy instore and they will be able to point you in the right direction as to what speakers suit because it is not only the diameter of the speaker that matters but also the depth.

    Ryda.com.au are very cheap but before buying from them I would shop around at SCR or JB first, just to find the right speakers/headunits/subs/amps etc that suit your car and set up aspirations because not all equipment can handle all set ups.

    Source - I used to work at Strathfield Car Radios (albeit 4 years ago, so I am a little rusty).

    Edit: Too late I guess.

    Edit v2.0: Just checked out the Headunit, no problems there, no limitations regarding setup etc. And if you want an easy no fuss install invest in loom kits, it will mean virtually plug and play, which will mean a cleaner and quicker install.
  16. Actually ended up with this unit


    Which had the 4 powered outs and the sub out that I was chasing, and was cheaper than the Sony -- I've got a sony walkman MP3 player and didn't want to learn another interface but I should be ok for CDs. The matching brand and lower price is what changed my mind. The stock speakers go loud enough now without distorting so I don't see how that will change with a more powerful head, especially with a sub taking care of the low stuff. I'll keep new speakers in mind for the next upgrade. I manage to not blow up bass 400W cabinets with a 1.2kW head so 50W per channel doesn't scare me (although blowing up the speakers might be a good way to "sell" the need for an upgrade to our "internal finance review department").

    Thanks for the input.
  17. Be Careful getting an Auto Electrician to hook it up, When I was in Car Audio Industry the vast majority of product damage I used to see was from Auto Electricians who tried to hook up new Headunits and wired them up wrong, don't get me wrong, I'm not saying all Auto Electricians are bad or will do damage, but it never ceased amaze me just how many of these guys refused to read the Wiring Diagrams for the new Headunit, they would then wire it up how the thought it should be wired, and when the magic smoke leaked out refused to accept any blame and told the Customer the Stereo is crap, take it back and demand a new one.
    I would get the customer in annoyed there new Toy was faulty, we would be accused of selling a crap product, I would test it (the units were dead or badly damaged) the customer would then get a rude shock when told that this would cost them money (incorrect Installation damage is not covered under Warranty)

    The vast majority of these guys simply pulled out the old Factory Stereo and then wired up the new one by just matching the colours, I would expect a member of the Public to do that, someone who has had little no experience around Automotive wiring, but someone who works with it everyday? I would expect them to be a little smarter than that.
  18. I certainly wouldn't go to an auto-electrician. In my experience, they'd probably tell you to go to a car audio place anyway.
  19. It's not just distortion you need to worry about. Factory speakers are generally whatever the manufacturer could get the cheapest price on as a bulk buy, and therefore tend to be made out of the cheapest possible materials (ie weak magnets and cones which flex far too much to produce "clean" sound).

    So not only do they not sound as good as better quality aftermarket ones, they tend to degrade pretty quickly over time too and can start distorting at well below the wattage they were designed for. Combine that with excessive bass from a powered sub and you'll likely end up with something that'll sound pretty awful for most styles of music. I know, I've tried it - and have since ditched the sub in favour of some decent aftermarket speakers driven by a high-quality amp. Some strategically placed sound deadening/dampening certainly helps too, but that requires a lot more time/effort to fit (though it's essential if you want to run a sub and not have half the car resonating and producing out of phase soundwaves).
  20. OK, might get some help and do it myself. I did it on my first car but broke a few bits of plastic, that was an excel so maybe the plastic on the corrola is better. If I can get somebody else to take off the plastic molding bits I should be right from there.

    The speakers sound OK at the moment, up high. I'm only upgrading the head so it will play CDs. At the moment there are whole bass parts missing when I listen in the car so I guess the challenge is to keep the sub volume down so that it doesn't dominate everything. The powered sub I bought is pretty gutless and only good for ~50Hz - 100 Hz so it won't be going a great deal. I think the sub only pulls a couple of hundred watts so I won't be vibrating the whole car.