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Bypassing a suspect kill switch, how to?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Ljiljan, Dec 15, 2010.

  1. Pretty self explanatory, I think i've got a dodgy kill switch. At least I hope its a dodgy kill switch. Will do a bit of experimenting to try and locate. But for the moment, assuming it is a dodgy kill switch how would I attempt to bypass it without starting to hack into wires. I want them to be able to work again if need be.

    I know there is a proper way to do it, but not sure of it.

    At the moment im thinking of cutting away a bit of the insulation on the wires and simply shorting them and then possibly put some heat shrink around the short.
  2. Unscrew the switchblock, take the two wires out, and join them together.
    No damage, and easy to put back together.
  3. Lilley if you have been riding in the rain it could be just water logged, try some WD-40 or what i used to do to the cbr250 we had when i was 18 was flick the switch on and off half a dozen times and it would come good again.
  4. You ride a Kawasaki, don't you? Unless there are symptoms specifically indicating the kill switch, my first suspect would be the sidestand cutout switch.

    But you might have eliminated that already.
  5. nah its a honda. no sidestand switch at all. I could be something else, but kill switch will be the easiest to attack.
  6. Fair enough. Faulty memory on my part.
  7. First question.....is the kill switch 'normally open' or 'normally closed' for normal operation of the motorcycle???

    1] Locate the connector block where the switch block connects to the main loom.

    2] Identify the 2 wires that come from the kill switch

    3] Remove the 2 wires from the connector block on the loom side of the connector block. usually achieved with a small screwdriver pressing back the locking tab.

    If its normally open.... just insulate the bare ends of the 2 wires to stop them shorting on a frame part.

    If its normally closed....join the 2 wires together, then insulate the join.

    Another option... on the switch block side of the connector, measure the resistance across the 2 kill switch wires with a multimeter....either no resistance ( closed circuit ) or full resistance ( open circuit ) depending on the switch position would indicate that its not the kill switch.
  8. Fine in theory, but I've come across situations where a connection was fine when subjected to the tiny load of an Ohmmeter, but broke down when subjected to the normal circuit current. It's had me tearing my hair out on more than one occasion.
  9. Wise man once said always start with the simple first....eliminating broken wire(s) or faulty switch fall in that category. That said, I agree with you...and would move on to connecting at the connector block..post the simple checks

    Sadly I long ago ran out of hair...8-[
  10. Its definitely a closed circuit switch for normal operation.
  11. next problem. Between the brake switch, kill switch and starter button, there are 6 wires going into the plastic hosing. at the connector block, only 5 wires come out. Now trying to work out which is which and what is missing. Not easy, particularly when 3 of the 5 are the same colour.
  12. Well, if it helps, the three identical ones are likely to be all power feeds and so interchangeable, or all grounds and so also interchangeable.
  13. that does help a lot actually. The problem is which one can I pull out to short the kill switch without braking any of the other circuits?
    Time to head up to auto 1 I think.