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Buying a CBR250R - any advice? [update]

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' at netrider.net.au started by cossie, Oct 31, 2005.

  1. ...other than dont do it!!!

    Looking around for a cheap 250 thats worth riding (FZR, CBR, ZXR, ZZR etc) and I've seen one or two CBR250's for under $3000 (without rwc :? )

    What are the main things to be aware of on these? It'll be my first bike but I'm a car mechanic by trade so not a total noob :p



    Im looking for something that is cosmetically untidy as theres a fair chance it'll end up on its side at some point, but something thats not likely to catch me out too much come rwc time :shock:

    I've read the used bike guide on here but is there anything specific that HAS to be right before buying?

    thankingyoumuchly :D
     
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  2. disks... check them and make soure they are above the min thickens... the min thicknes is stamped on them...

    most other parts (not counting the fairings) are realetively cheep and easy to find... Disks... are expensive... new about $400 front and $200 rear and second hand about $150 front and $100 rear if you can find them!!
     
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  3. how ya goin?

    my experience is that if any 250 is looking 'shabby', it hasn't been looked after internally. I would definately be looking for something that someone has kept clean on the outside, it has generally then had the necessary maintenance done
     
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  4. ^^^ Agreed!

    But you're right about there being a high probability of you going for a slide some time in the near future. It happens to all of us at some stage (some more than others).

    From the list of bikes that you gave (FZR, CBR, ZZR ect) you're obviously after the "fully faired look". Be wary of how many km's the bike has clocked up. Unlike a car, anything over 50,000km on a little 250 means that it’s getting a little long in the tooth. If it’s been really well maintained then you might get away with it but chances are that you'll have mechanical problems sooner than later.

    As previous posts before me have said, defiantly check the brakes and wheel bearings. These things are essential!
     
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  5. Cheers for all the info - especially the brakes, I didnt know they were that much!!! Is it obvious if they are worn or is it worth taking a micrometer and measuring them? and where on the disk is the minimum thickness stamped?
     
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  6. Yes and yes

    It is worth taking a micrometer and knowing how to use one... if the disk is 0.01mm under sized than it will fail RWC

    MOST but not all disks have minimum thickness stamped on them... usualy somewere visible... FZR250 fronts don't have it stamped and as far as I know not many mechanics know what it is... (3.5mm I belive but i'm %100 on that)
     
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  7. yeah lord, 3.5 is (i think) the very lowest you can go on any bike so that sounds about right for a wee 250. and can you let me know where you get your 2nd hand discs from? cos last year i forked out $625 for a set of 2nd hand discs for malissas little XJR :(


    but yeah, keep an eye out for discs and tyres. make sure theres no shuddering under brakes and check the walls of the tyres aswell as the tread because cracking will not pass a RWC either.


    your a mechanic, you cant go too far wrong. and dont stress too much about age and kays, condition is the factor you want to look at. a dickhead can trash a bike in 20,000 if they dont look after it so look at the bike and ask about the service history etc instead of just looking at the kays :D
     
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  8. I got a second hand rear disc for the Hornet from a wrecker in Silverwater (Syd) for $120. A couple of weeks ago. $45 for some new pads too, aftermarket, but I don't use the rear a lot anyway.
     
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  9. Just been and looked at one....

    looked tidy in the pictures but the fairings were plenty scratched, as was the crankcase both sides, - and cracked around the front, including a crack in the screen. Although im not too worried about cosmetics anyway.

    It has RR fairings on it although its only an R.

    My main concern was the front forks were totally shot - seals were pissing oil out and it was notchy and noisy and very soft when pushing down on the front. What sort of cost is involoved in rebuiling them and is there any special tools required to do it?

    other than a few other minor bits (brake light switch hanging off, needed a good service,) the fairings didnt fit real well, especially around the indicators and the rear tyre wasnt much good. I forgot to take my micrometer so didnt measure the disc but that could be touch and go really.

    so whats it worth? heres the link:
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4585624108&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1
     
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  10. Id steer clear of it. CBR250's are great bikes so long as you get a decent one. They can turn into your worst nightmare if they are not right. Spend a bit more and get one thats been looked after. Is a 250rr on the agenda? I know of a few really good examples that are for sale around the $5000 mark. I know their owners and their history. Ill scout around for a single r as well.
     
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  11. Theres no way I'd stretch to an RR, I'm aiming to spend between $2500 and $3500 depending on the bike and the condition, amount of reg/rwc etc

    I wasnt originally looking for a CBR because of the unnecessarily high price tags they usually come with but if I land on one for the right money I'll go for it.

    I really wanted an FZR but finding one for the right money is difficult. I may end up settling for a ZZR at this rate :(

    anyone any ideas on the cost of a fork rebuild?
     
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  12. Nothing Wrong with a ZZR mate: Rock steady, bullet proof engine, Holds a line REALLY well, slightly bigger and comfortable. Oh yeah it will beat a CBR off the line and close to 100km/h aswell. But the CBR will then pull away. And it has the benefit of not having a ludacris price tag aswell.

    You could get a nice example for around $3000-3500

    Only draw back being if you get lazy with your gear changes you'll find it has about 87 neutrals!!
     
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  13. Just because it says "RR" on the fairing, that doesn't make it so... that bike's wearing the correct plastic, it's just been resprayed in a custom scheme, like practically every other BabyBlade out there.

    So, let's summarise...
    -some fairly comprehensive cosmetic damage.
    -runs rough (otherwise you wouldn't say that it needs a good service).
    -blown fork seals.

    If there's a bike out there that qualifies for the proverbial offer of $3.50 annakikinnanuts, it's this one.

    Ironically, $2200 is probably about what the market value of it is, but you'd have to be stupid to pay it when you consider the numbers of BabyBlades out there.
     
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  15. hahahahaha only revs to 10k? :shock: you need to get them over 10k before they have any balls :LOL:

    i would think that you'd get a better FZR for your budget or just go the ZZR option. you should be able to get a much tidier ZZR for that money if you look around for a while. $3500 is plenty enuff budget for a decent bike :D
     
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  16. If you pick it up for under $2K you will be doing OK... I have picked up these little things cheaper but in much worse state :D

    the over 10K thing... if the bloke hardly used it than most probably it needs a good sevice, a good hard ride and a fuel pump (most probably removed at some piont)... I have seen this many times b4...

    the forks are piss easy to do.. though can be messy... depending on how are the dust seals it could cost you very little to do it yourself... there are countless write ups on the net...
     
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  17. It's all over now anyway...someone has bid on it for the $2200 starting price.

    I'll keep on looking I guess - anyone know of anything suitable?


    edit: it just went for $2550! someones in for a shock when they go to collect it! and thats why you shouldnt buy a bike without seeing it first!
     
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