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Buying 1995 Motorbike in 2015

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by Frazer, Jun 2, 2015.

  1. HI Guys,

    Im new here and not entirely sure where to post this, but is it to old to buy a 1995 KLR250 in 2015?

    It has 10000kms on the clock and its stock as a rock. Also will it be okay as a first bike? I weigh 75kg and am 180cm tall

    Im going to view it this Thursday.

    Cheers, Frazer
  2. If it's in good condition and been looked after, anything old is fine.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. I ride a 1969 T200 Suzuki sometimes :) Depends on how much they are asking and the condition. 10,000km is not a lot of K's unless they were really rough K's ;)
  4. Unless they are asking for silly money, that's a perfect bike for a first bike! And don't sell it when you get a new bike, keep it for offroad adventures!
    • Agree Agree x 2
  5. How much are they asking ?
  6. Being so old and a bike popular for touring it's unlikely but possible the odo has ticked over once so you might actually be looking at 110kkms, check the brake discs, if they're worn down (you'd feel a notch with your finger between the braking surface and rest of it) then it's probably done much more than 10kms, there's a few other things that will indicate true mileage so make sure you get a mechanic to check it out first.
  7. Service History
    Service History
    Service History

    If it's got a documented service history, it won't matter if it's done 100,000kms.....
    • Agree Agree x 2
  8. THey are asking for 2 grand but already said they would go down to 1700

  9. Hello, what else do I look for to indicate the true mileage? I'm new to motorbikes.
  10. Wear of rubber on footpegs and shifter is another indicator. Any decent mechanic should be able to tell you if the odos telling the truth (you should be getting it checked over anyway before you purchase).
  11. I would not have a problem with buying this bike. Five years ago I brought a 30 year old cb250rs with 17,000 kms on it. It now has 45,000 kms on it and have just had the first problem with it. The coil has gone west. Last January I did a 1800 km in 3 day on that bike.
  12. It looks alright to me, you could probably talk him down a bit on the price too.
  13. I can tell you just from the Gumtree pics that the 10km on the odo is very likely not the true reading

    Why would I say that, and how can I tell just from some pics?

    Easy..Look at the amount of wear to the black paint on the engine cases on both sides, it is extensive. Bare metal everywhere. Whilst on these types of bikes it is not uncommon to see some paint wear given off-road boots are often worn by their riders, the wear on this one indicates it has had substantial use, far more than a bike with genuine 10k km.

    Trail bikes often have speedo/odo instruments removed by the owners when new to avoid damage to them when ridden off-road, they also often break speedo cables which owners neglect to replace, thus leaving low km on the odometer when in fact the bikes have travelled many more km than the clocks suggest. Check that it works, because it may not have been working for a very long time.

    Bikes like this old thing can seem cheap, afterall the asking price is only $2k, and you have them at $1700 already but to the inexperienced, it could cost alot more than that during your ownership.

    Some things to consider;

    ** As mentioned disc wear - If it needs a roadworthy it may need replacing if undersized.
    ** Rear drum brake - These are often very neglected on bikes, and end up scored from crap building up inside the drum, and shoes being worn to metal and never replaced. If when using the rear brake it feels like it is suddenly grabbing or locking, it will require attention.
    ** Fork gaiters - Make sure you look under them. There could be lots of rust, pitting or leaky seals hiding under there, and if they are pitted/rusty the cost to re-hard chrome them will be high.
    ** Check if it starts easily from deal cold, if not then a carb overhaul could be needed, and unless you do it yourself, can be several hundred $$, with OEM parts probably obsolete, so maybe not even possible and then chasing used carbs may not be easy.
    ** Swingarm bushes/bearings - If it has been off-road most of it's life or has high mileage, these can be worn and are a pain in the ass to replace if they are brass bushes needing to be pressed in/out.
    ** Headstem bearing - If you list the front wheel and slowly turn the bars side to side full lock, it should be smooth, not notchy or rough. Not a big problem, but again another cost.
    ** Does it blow smoke when started from dead cold after sitting overnight? Valve stem seals and/or valves, which will require removal of the head and a job you won't be able to do yourself. This repair would be a costly one if paying a workshop.
    ** Chain and Sprockets - These if rusty and or worn will need replacing, and will be a few hundred $$. They are often neglected on train bikes, and get covered in dirt/sand which grinds away at the chain pins causing them to stretch quickly.

    Essentially unless you can perform alot of any required work yourself, paying to get work done makes these oldies cost prohibitive and poor value. Workshops don't charge less for working on cheaper older bikes, they charge an hourly rate regardless, many up to $100/hr+ in some cases so the cost of a few seemingly minor issues could end up costing you half the price of the bike all over again, and that extra $$ would probably buy you a much newer bike.

    I'm capable of doing any repairs myself, I have the tools and the skills/experience and I wouldn't touch this bike myself, preferring something much newer for a little more $$.

    Just food for thought.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  14. Tweet is on the money, forget the odo that's more than likely wrong. The fact the guy is using it as a sales hook is wrong unless he can prove it.
    Unless the bike is a collectable which it isn't then I wouldn't pay more than $500 for it.
    Buy something newer with a service history that proves it's credentials for the same money, would be my advice.
  15. Hi Tweet,

    Thank you very much for writing all that, I'll probably still go look at it but more so that I can get a bit of a feel of what I'm looking for more than anything else I was looking at prices of other Kawasaki klx250s and there are newer neater looking ones with a similar asking price.

    Once again thank you :)

  16. T
    Thanks Mcsenna, as I said above I'll go look at it anyway but more so that I learn what I'm looking for. I'll probably just wait a bit longer and save some more $$$

  17. Good thinking - save some more cash for a better bike, but be sure to ask a lot of questions so that you know what a ‘better bike’ looks like.

    I have 2x 1994 Honda sport bikes and they are fantastic. Built incredibly well and very simple so easy to repair and modify.

    Don’t let the age put you off a bike as the older bikes in a lot of cases have far more character than their modern equivalent – plus they can be just as (if not more) fun to ride
  18. Bam.....

    Sometimes netrider can still produce a gem.
  19. Tweet is right, but I disgree with Mcsenna. You are not going to get anthing great for $1700. So long as it's running without any excess rattles, clunks or smoke, etc and it will pass the rego inspection (do they do that in WA?) in July, it's a reasonable buy.

    That is providing you are willing to work on it yourself.

    If he said he'll go to $1700 on the phone, then $1500 cash will see it in you pocession. Any running bike, without obvious faults, is worth that IMO.
    • Agree Agree x 1