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Breaking in a new dz400sm

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by Romie, Oct 16, 2009.

  1. So I get my bike within the next couple of days and im wondering how I should break it in. I keep reading/hearing all different things from people and websites and its starting to confuse me. Ive done a search on this forum and found alot more information which resulted in more confusion.

    Then when I asked the dealer they reckon take it easy for the first tank of fuel, then after that ride it hard.

    Doing a search on the forums, some people say follow the manual, others say follow what ive posted above, some say just rev it and dont let the bike stay at a certain speed for to long, then some other people have their own versions with seam to mix everything that ive read.

    So what do I do, and when/how often do I change the oil, filter etc when breaking in the bike? As a learner starting off, could this be an issue breaking the bike in?

    My head is about to explode, anyhelp would be great.
  2. Well as you have probably figured out there are 2 schools of thought on this issue...

    While I don't subscribe to the ride it like you stole it approach, when I picked up my Superduke I rode it normally, up and down the revs and didn't redline it, I rode straight to the black spur and spent the day breaking her in doing laps, not at full throttle but not far off, IMHO I think a somewhat in between approach is best...my bike runs like a dream, consumes very little oil and it gets thrashed every time it's ridden.

    As an aside a good friend of mine bought a KLR650 brand new, the 2009 models have had known excessive oil usage issues, like over a litre in 1000k's.

    When he bought the bike it was broken in as per the manufacturers recommendation and it started using excess oil, he noted it and went to a dealer who contacted Kawasaki who agreed to rebuild the engine, again manufacturer run in procedure was followed...again excessive oil consumption was the result.

    After Kawasaki trying to tell my mate it's normal and they all use oil, the dealer put tamper proof seals over the filler so he couldn't add oil and told him to come back in about 2000k's, when he did the bike was almost out of oil! they again rebuilt the motor, again the manufacturer run in was followed...and yet again high oil consumption was the result

    So 3rd time lucky it was rebuilt yet again, the dealer by this point was really pissed off as it was costing him some serious coin in well paying work while he was doing warranty repairs for Kawasaki, so when handing over the keys his advice was "thrash it , what have we got to lose".

    So the owner took it home to Heallesville and thrashed it up and down the spur and everywhere else, and you know what? the bike runs perfectly now and uses next to no oil and believe me it gets flogged...the parts fitted to the bike each time were the same, fitted by the same mechanic, the only thing different was the run in procedure.

    Make of that what you will
  3. I don't think it hurts to follow the manufacturers guidelines. I always figured that lots of little Japanese men in labcoats get paid good money to figure these things out.
  4. A race bike will be run in after a few heat cycles and 15 mins hard riding. Your DRZ wont. But a lot of that stuff will still ring true.

    A few points in my opinion. Don't put in fancy full synth oil straight away. Run good mineral oil for the first 500 or 1000, but feel free to change it in that time.

    Ride it how you normally would. Don't lug it in low revs, dont keep it in the red all the time, accelerate with full throttle, and use engine braking.

    Forget any "part throttle" stuff with the DRZ. It's a low stressed, under tuned, bullet proof motor, so full throttle might as well be part throttle. Wring it's neck and have fun.
  5. Thanks devotard I decided to do that and also take into consideration the manual as QuarterWit said. Im doign as you already said in your post, giving it gas but not readlining it, trying not to cruise it, constantly letting the revs go up and down, not lugging along at one speec etc.
  6. Shards of engine internals plugging the leaks? :D

    +1 devotard