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Breakin in a new bike

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by MarvinTheMartian, Nov 9, 2006.

  1. So what you're saying is flog it from day one??? Isn't that the default Netrider policy anyway??
  2. The logic behind the technique seems sound. Although (not knowing a lot about engines) there seems to be a lot of emphasis on forming the piston rings properly... but what about the rest of the engine? Are there some parts that could be damaged with this approach even though it helps seal the rings?

    ...Not that I really have to worry about this atm, it's going to be a LONG time before I get a brand spanker :cry:
  3. This has been covered a few times before, have a search and you'll see most of them. I think the general consensus was that no one actually knew, but there were a lot of opinions.

    ...so I'll add mine.

    I haven't seen anyone other than that guy advocating this method so I'd stick with what those clever people who designed the bike say (though their suggestion will obviously be conservative).
  4. This guy is not dumb. What he says is basically true, you cannot
    teach an engine to pussyfoot and then expect it to boogey hard.

    I should reiterate a couple of points though...

    Stop and have COOL DOWN time after 60 seconds of hard running.
    Even if the engine water is still cool, the rings and cylinder walls won't be.
    You CAN sieze an engine while the water is still cool, because it takes
    a while for the heat to get into the water. If you're building up heat
    really quickly, you'd better stop and get rid of that heat.

    Don't hit extreme RPMs straight away. Vary your RPMs smoothly and
    start by only going to 1/2 of max, then 3/4 of max after a while. After
    a few km's, now and again for a second or two you might get close to max.

    Did you ever wonder why a demo bike from the shop goes so well?
    People always give them a little twist-of-the-wrist, even when they're
  5. i was taught, 5 minutes, complete cool down, 10 minutes, complete cool down, 20 minutes, complete cool down.
  6. Yeah I reckon the main thing is to vary the revs.
    I've been giving my bike a proper go since new (1,200 klms now) but take extra long to let it warm up and cool down, plus no revving it over redline.

    Plus have been easy on the clutch and box, not too many hard launches or double clutching.

    And if ur cruising a long distance e.g. highway, don't just leave it revving at same speed in 6th gear the whole time, vary the revs, vary the gear etc.

    Also take it easy on the pads/discs for first couple of rides to let them bed nicely.
  7. IMO, the best thing for ring seal is to put the engine under load, and pretty much the more the better. For a motorbike riding up big hills and even carrying a pillion is a good way to achieve this. I should add that putting an engine under load does not mean flogging it, up to around 3/4 rpm is ample.

    If you ride gently or allow it to idle alot when running in the engine you will glaze the bore(s) which will cause the motor to have marginally lower compression and burn oil (only very slight).

    Also, varying engine revs and cool downs are a good idea. I have not bothered with cool down before though. I do a top end rebuild on my dirty every 1500km's and no issues with this technique.
  8. Breaking in experience

    I have been breaking in my M50 Suzuki (50 Cubic inches not 50 cc) with the occasional travel throught the rev range.
    The enemy is not revs - it is heat that is the enemy.

    After giving it a fang - let it cool down with some steady riding - then give it a fang again.

    Gently does it is not a good method.
    Racing it from day one works well for race engines, but they get rebuilt VERY often.

    Somewhere in the middle is a good method.
    Normal riding - some fanging in there, just not droning down the highway works well.

    The problem with following the manufacturers method is twofold.
    1. No one reads the manual!
    2. Bike riders do not follow instructions as a rule.

    Gently won't kill it - but will give you a pussy.
    Flogging it CAN kill it
  9. mototuneusa secrets are a crock imo, heat is not the enemy, motors are designed to run efficiently only at operating temperatures and not before, the different metals used in your motor have different heat up times, once you have reached operating temperatures you want to ride like normal and let the engine begin its wear process and bed in, stop start cool down cycles are not going to allow that.
    Very high revs are a no-no, as is putting high load on motor - tall gearing low revs uphill is not good for your bottom end, ride normal & do your first oil change as your manufacturer recommends.
    I have a mate he paid over 15k for a bike motor, a quality performance motor, its ignition and logic unit would not allow the engine to rev higher than what the manufacturer specified for the first so many operating hours.

  10. A mechanic friend of mine told me the same thing (load it). He said that any cars he ran in this way always had more power than ones which were run in gently.

    I guess I should take the approach of accelerating quickly once its warm or else the motor on my bike is going to be down on power. :)
  11. i just did my 1st service on the VTR
    left is till 1300 klms instead of 1000 but what the hell.

    anyway, have now given it plenty of stick since day 1
    no problems
    and goes like the clappers

    Just my opinion & I'm sure I'm biased, BUT
    Seems to sound better, more throaty and better idle, plus its SEEMS to pull harder than other dudes VTR's too? (I've dragged a few at the lights now)
  12. I'm not the mechanic in our house, but we have always varied the revs for brief periods when running in new bikes (dirt and road).

    And don't ask my why alright, I just do as I am told :)
  13. I'm not having a go at anybody here, I'll freely admit I know less than jackshit, but as I said it's mostly opinion...

    Anyway my point is that if you're going to be throwing your cash (a substantial amount of it) at a new bike you could do worse than following the recommended instructions of the engineers who designed it. Yeah, sure they're going to be conservative, but it beats flogging the crap out of the bike and killing it... as I'm sure has happened in many a not-so-publicised case. The alternative is based mainly on anecdotes and doesn't actually have a rational basis. But hell, it's your bike, do what you want.

    But think about it first.

    The temptation to let rip with the throttle will probably be too tempting anyway...

    :grin: :wink: :grin:

    Let us know how it goes.

  14. :WStupid:
    I reckon I can tell when an engine is under stress and ride on the edge of that occasionally pushing up into it. eventually it runs freely the whole way out.
  15. :WStupid:
    I reckon I can tell when an engine is under stress and ride on the edge of that occasionally pushing up into it. eventually it runs freely the whole way out.

  16. The rev range I operate in is typically 35-65% of maximum/redline at a maximum of about 2/3 throttle once moving. I won't kill kill the motor by riding it this way (giving it some load) and it is by no means flogging it.
  17. im pretty skeptical of the link, there was advertising on it saying that by reducing the size of the intake ports you can gain power.... i think this defies all the things that i have ever read! :)
    i could be wrong tho :D
  18. Im not a fan of "run it in like its stolen"

    I overheard a conversation today in a bike shop and its just wrong.

    Think about it, the engines come off an assembly line, they are not blue printed from factory, its an assembly line! You get good ones and bad ones. Clearances are always within spec but are no where near "run in".

    The old "head mechanic" would always run his engines in hard. Every engine failed at some point early in its life. Even an engine I built started breathing heavily, leak down was bad and was down on power. He no longer got to run engines in and was pretty upset. fcuk him, im higher up in the food chain!

    Every engine I have run in has followed these rules:
    first 2000 klm drop the oil every 500 klm with non friction/synth oil
    No more then 1/2 throttle
    No more then 7 psi (if turbocharged)
    No more then 50% of its maximum RPM range
    No highway or constant load driving for long periods
    No richer then 11.5:1 AFR

    From here increments differ depending on the engine and you can load it up a little more.
  19. I've got a new CBR600RR. The guys at the Honda dealer told me to ride it like i stole it...within reason. Let it warm up, and don't bounce it off the rev limiter. The reason they gave is all the engines are bounced off the rev limiter in the factory and are run pretty hard before installed into the bike. They also said any manufacturer who tells you otherwise doesn't have faith in their product. It's all under warranty anyway.