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Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by jamie, May 7, 2006.

  1. last time I posted i did get help with this,but I still have to ask a couple of things oil I got 10w40 witch it says to use, on the bottle it does not state for motorbikes is this a problem and also in a mag I read steps to change pads and it said to lift wheel of the ground and spin, sqeeze lever till you feel presure then put the wheel down and tighten calipper bolts,does this mean the bolts will not onley hold calipper on rotor but will also hold pads at right distanceof the rotor,I am not sure if I have explained my self properley, thanks.and also I would like to paint my forks to give them aclean up, any ideas as to paint,and if pulling of my exauste shuold I replace any gaskits.

  2. Oil;
    there should be a bunch of letters after the 10w40, these refer to the grade spec.
    Plenty of people use car oil in their bikes, its probably not ideal but I don't think it'll hurt the VTR.

    not certain what they are trying to achieve there. The bolts mount the caliper to the fork leg straddling the rotor, the pads are held in the caliper (by various means) and center themselves around the rotor when you first apply pressure to the system. When the pressure comes off the pad backs off slightly so the rotor can spin but not all the way back into the caliper.
    New pads will naturally be thicker than the old ones (thats why you're replacing them) so before you remove the caliper open the bleeder nipple and gently force the old pads back into the caplier. Fluid will piss out the bleeder so be ready with tube or rags to catch it.

    best to replace but you wouldn't be the first to reuse them